Tips on Ordering from Chan

[Dapper Dandy]

I'm going to order a suit from Chan on his July 2006 tour. Can people please share their tips on what to order or how to get maximum value? For example, do I need to request pick stitching along the collar? Does Chan tend to go heavy or light on the shoulder padding (I have heard heavy, but would like to confirm)? Are there certain styles that Chan simply cannot do well? Do you recommend certain fabrics over others? I have heard that pants and sleeve length may frequently be too short or too long, so I am considering having him leave them basted until his next visit, when I'll have Chan shorten them appropriately and then he'll have my proper length on file. Does this make sense?

Sorry for asking so many questions, but this is a major investment for me and a big step away from RTW, so I want to get it right. Plus, I know some of the Chaniacs on here would like to brag about their fantastic suits, so let's hear it!

 

[new obsession]

With luck, and a willing photographer, I will post some pics of my recent Chan creation in the next few days. Can't really help with information, as I am probably still as un-informed as I was when I walked in. I relied heavily on Patrick's advice, and my wife's love for the fabric.

I can say that I wish I had gotten pick stitching on the lapels, I suppose I had to ask for it, but alas, I did not. I wonder if that can be retro-fitted in July?

I do remember having to discuss the length of the sleeves with him, and until I have worn the suit a few times (I only got back this week), I will not be certain if we got it right. (He kept wanting to make them longer.)

 

[Vintage Gent]

A few thoughts on fabric. The specials on the past few tours have varied among Loro Piana 120s, Charles Clayton 150s and VBC 120s. I have one suit in each, and the Loro Piana is clearly the least among them. I would strongly counsel eschewing the LP, even if it is on special. My VBC is in 10oz, while the other two are 9oz, and I find that extra bit of weight pleasing, yet not too heavy for the summer, given the ubquity of central air in these parts.

As far as sleeve length goes, I like your idea of having a basted fitting. I did not, and the sleeves on my first suit came out egregiously long (approximately half way down my hand), so I had to meet with Patrick again to rectify the problem. To his great credit, he repaired the problem with expert hand and eager dispatch (and threw in a free shirt for my troubles).

For photographic reference, here are the threads with pictures of my various suits:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=12207
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=11721
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=8300

 

[edmorel]

LP 120 is in fact the sale fabric this time around. BYOF

 

[dah328]

+1 on the LP worsteds sucking. Do not buy them.

All my Chan suits have pick-stitched lapels and I never asked for it. It's pretty fine so if you're expecting the really garish stuff, that's not what you'll find.

 

[maxnharry]

I would shy away from the sale fabric and go with either the Charles Clayton, but especially the Holland and Sherry fabric if you can swing the price.

 

[new obsession]

Originally Posted by dah328

All my Chan suits have pick-stitched lapels and I never asked for it. It's pretty fine so if you're expecting the really garish stuff, that's not what you'll find.

I just looked, and unless it is extremely fine, to the point that I am losing the stichting in the plaid of the suit, I don't see it. Not that I am complaining, by any means, but I just don't see it.

 

[maverick]

I've just had an idea, but I'm not sure whether this will work or now. Why not send in some measurements and request a basted fitting for July?

 

[Dapper Dandy]

Maverick, that's an interesting idea, but I think I need to see the fabrics in person and discuss what I want in person prior to the suit being made. I suppose I'm not confident enough in my ability to express what I want without telling Chan in person.

 

[luk-cha]

perhaps if you tock a list of details and pointers and also pictures too for explenation as this will make the whole process easier and this too will give them a reference point to your hopes and expectations and how the suit should look in your eyes.

ps also keep a copy of the list and pic's for your own ref so you dont forget what you asked for!

 

[retronotmetro]

Originally Posted by maverick

I've just had an idea, but I'm not sure whether this will work or now. Why not send in some measurements and request a basted fitting for July?

I don't believe they accept emailed measurements. They'd be on the hook if you suck with a measuring tape.

 

[retronotmetro]

Originally Posted by maxnharry

I would shy away from the sale fabric and go with either the Charles Clayton, but especially the Holland and Sherry fabric if you can swing the price.

I don't have any H&S, but I think the non-sale price of Charles Clayton may be close enough to the H&S prices to warrant going with H&S. The Clayton 150s has a nice silky hand, but I don't like the way it drapes. The last time I ordered a suit from WW Chan, LP was the sale fabric but I jumped up to Scabal 120s, which is a great fabric that I find superior to the Clayton 150s.

With respect to Loro Piana, if given the choice between the LP 120s and VBC 120s, I'd probably go with VBC, even if it cost more. My VBC 120s and Revenge 130s suits have all been pretty durable. LP makes some nice fabrics, but their standard 120s is nothing special.

 

[JLibourel]

I think most of the fabrics Chan offers are 2x1s. Does anybody know which of the fabrics in their collection are 2x2s and approximately how much will this jack up the price for a jacket? So far I have a suit made from LP Super 120, two blazers from VBC Super 130 and a sport coat made from an E. Thomas Super 110 wool-cashmere blend. While I have no complaints to date with any of these garments, I'd be glad to pay a reasonable premium for something more durable. I'm planning to commission a 6x2 DB navy blazer and probably a wool-cashmere sport coat when Patrick visits next month.

 

[Vintage Gent]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

I think most of the fabrics Chan offers are 2x1s. Does anybody know which of the fabrics in their collection are 2x2s and approximately how much will this jack up the price for a jacket?

I'm not sure what caused me to think this, but I was under the impression that the Charles Clayton was 2x2. Can any of our fabric cognoscenti correct or verify?

 

[retronotmetro]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

I think most of the fabrics Chan offers are 2x1s. Does anybody know which of the fabrics in their collection are 2x2s and approximately how much will this jack up the price for a jacket? So far I have a suit made from LP Super 120, two blazers from VBC Super 130 and a sport coat made from an E. Thomas Super 110 wool-cashmere blend. While I have no complaints to date with any of these garments, I'd be glad to pay a reasonable premium for something more durable. I'm planning to commission a 6x2 DB navy blazer and probably a wool-cashmere sport coat when Patrick visits next month.

The 2x2 fabrics I remember seeing on tour stops are Holland & Sherry, Charles Clayton, Scabal, and Zegna. I think the H&S 120s was roughly $1200 for a suit last year. I forget the ratio of coat : pants prices that go into their suit prices, but figure a rough estimate of $750 and up for a coat made from the higher grade fabrics.