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Tips on how to choose a well fitting blazer?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by betep, Apr 11, 2012.

  1. betep

    betep Well-Known Member

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    Brooklyn, NY
    Hi guys, I'm heading to the city tomorrow to pick up a navy blazer and am pretty ignorant concerning the proper fit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Tweedy

    Tweedy Senior member

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    Its a good idea to search the forum for previous threads on this as there is some great advice on here.
    I would suggest trying a number on to get a feel for what feels right and start from there :)
     
  3. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    Shoulders first
     
  4. betep

    betep Well-Known Member

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    I'm reading some previous threads and there is some mixed opinions on where the jacket should end around the butt. Kinda confused.
     
  5. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Just low enough to hide the seat.
     
  6. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Generally, there are two camps:

    -Classic (coats that are timeless more traditional)
    -Progressive ( more contemporary - slightly shorter - etc)

    It depends on your body type and style. I, for example, cannot wear anything with high armholes and strong shoulder padding/ropping because of my athletic build and broad shoulders. However, a brand like RLPL or RLP can look more fitted on me because the generous cut and natural shoulder looks smaller on my larger frame.

    What is your body type, how old are you and what do you do?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2012
  7. betep

    betep Well-Known Member

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    23 y/o student, very athletic but slim body type. 6'3" ~190 lbs.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2012
  8. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Thanks.

    You're body type will work with a lot of different brands. What are you a 42L? Whats your budget?
     
  9. betep

    betep Well-Known Member

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    ~1k or so but to be honest I'd rather just get the J.Crew Ludlow Blazer and slim it down at the tailors. It's $335 after a student discount
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2012
  10. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Buy whatever needs the least alterations. Make sure chest and shoulders fit correctly and then look for an athletic/slim cut jacket that does not need too much waist suppression. Salesmen will tell you that any poor fitting jacket can be altered to fit you, but that poor fitting jacket will never look as good as the jacket that needed the least amount of alterations. Look for Ralph Lauren Polo or Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald blazers.
     
  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Reasonable advice although "Look for Ralph Lauren Polo or Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald blazers." is questionable rather undermines the original thrust of this post.
     
  12. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    I would agree with this ^
    To add,
    Wear a button down collared shirt on your outing. Wear also some decent pants; pants that you would like to wear with this jacket. This will help with making a selection. Make sure the jacket covers your butt. Do not buy a short jacket because with your height, it will look rdiculous. Buy regular or long, whichever covers your butt. Don't wear thick pants because it will push the back of the jacket out.
     
  13. SlamMan

    SlamMan Senior member

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    This.


    Buy a jacket that has shoulders that look properly sized to the proportions of your body and the expression you're looking for. If you have narrow shoulders you may want something that extends a bit and gives you a broader shoulder. If you already have broad shoulders a narrower, softer shoulder may look more balanced. The rest can be taken in and let out. Don't just buy the jacket that fits you closest in the chest.

    For length, the jacket bottom should come close to splitting the difference from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the floor. Shorter for a more "fashionable" look. Cover the seat is a less than ideal rule of thumb. If your torso is proportionally shorter or longer than your legs it may look out of balance if you just cover the seat. You want a balanced look. Not just to cover a body part.
     
  14. sborg

    sborg Well-Known Member

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    Everybody's mentioning the shoulders should fit well because it's true. How can you put the blazer on you if the shoulders don't fit.
     
  15. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Since OP and I seem to have roughly the same build, I was making a suggestion on a good starting place. I've found that those two plus Samuelsohn fit me best.
     
  16. jamesny

    jamesny Senior member

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    NYC
    How to choose a well fitting blazer? Try on a few styles and make sure of course that when you put it there's no tugging or pulling at the sleeves/shoulders area and you can button/unbutton the jacket easily, and sit or move around in it.
     
  17. betep

    betep Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a bunch for all the advice. I ended up getting (ordering) a J.Crew ludlow blazer yesterday. 40L fit me well in the shoulders and length, but I still want to alter it a bit for waist suppression. Is there any preferred way of doing this? Side seams vs back seam? It is a double vent if that matters.
     
  18. SlamMan

    SlamMan Senior member

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    The side seams would typically be taken in for waist suppression. If you don't already have one, now you get to begin your life long adventure of finding a good tailor.
     

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