Tips on Bespoke Tuxedo

[harry2quinn]

I'm getting a bespoke tuxedo tailored in India. As I'm sure a lot of you know, tailors in India can sometimes be good if you go to a person who knows the kind of styling and specifications that you want. I grilled this guy for a good hour on the specifications for a suit that he's also making for me, and while he didn't always get exactly what I was looking for since the terms differ, he was quick to pick up on explanations. I'm putting up the specs on the suit at the bottom of the post as well, and any improvements or suggestions would be appreciated! As far as the tuxedo goes - while my knowledge of suits is not completely lacking, I know little about the styling on tuxedos. I'm spending time on blacktieguide.com, but they don't always have perfect advice on how to get them tailored, so I thought you guys would be a better resource before I go in to place the order tomorrow. Here's what I have so far:

• Purchased 3.25 meters of 100% black wool, Super 110s, made by Vitale Barberis Canonico, which should be enough for the entire tux including a SB/maybe DB waistcoat.
• I'm getting the suitable length (1 m?) of satin at another retailer tomorrow. Satin seems to be the norm, but I've also seen silk mentioned. Pros and cons?
• 3" peak lapel, single button, unvented jacket. Can you get fully canvassed tuxedos? Standard pockets like you would find on a suit, but flapless, standard breast pocket of medium height. Two inside pockets, including a smaller lower inside pocket. Standard gorge and button stance similar to a 2-button suit.
• What would you recommend about sleeve buttons? I know I can get working buttonholes, but is this okay? I'm assuming sleeve buttons are similar to the front of the jacket.

• The waistcoat is the one thing I'm least sure about. SB waistcoat should have 3 buttons, I've learned, and 3 (on each side, obviously) for DB.
• Should the waistcoat be lapeled, are the lapels made from satin/silk/wool? Buttons styled the same way as the buttons on the jacket?What's different about the waistcoat styling for a tuxedo compared to waistcoats for a 3-piece suit?

• Pants - unpleated, because that looks better on me, but I've learned that pleats are more suitable for the formality of a tux. How much of a transgression would unpleated be?
• Uncuffed, no belt loops. Adjustable side tabs? Straight pockets, two back pockets.

• Any other miscellaneous comments on styling contrasted with suit styling?

As far as styling for the suit goes, here are the specs I gave the guy - I'm substantially more confident in these specs, but perhaps I forgot something... 3" notch lapels, working lapel buttonhole, working sleeve buttonholes (4 buttons). Sleeves long enough that the just cover the ball on the wrist (though the guy kept trying to measure an inch below that..). 2-button, side-vented. standard gorge and breast pocket. Straight pockets with ticket pocket. Fully canvassed, easy on the shoulder padding (that last one is something they always overdo, with padding as though my shoulders were too weak to hold up a shirt). Flat front pants, uncuffed, straight pockets, 8 belt loops. 6-button vest, where the center just covers the belt buckle when the buttons are done up. I think that's all, though I might be missing one or two. Any comments on the suit or tuxedo, especially the latter, would be appreciated!

 

[The_Foxx]

check out the article in the Rake on black tie-- there are some great photos in the magazine, as well, which may also be on the website:

Just ignore the bigass bowtie, the rest is superb on the featured Tim Everest tux

http://www.therakeonline.com/article_aspectblack.html

note: if you're having it made, DO NOT go with satin lapels, man!!! this is your chance to have ribbed silk trimmings, a rare and special tux indeed.

 

[medwards]

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=124756

 

[RJman]

Putting on my Manton hat:

Tuxes are supposed to have a minimum of detail. That means that the jacket should be unvented, with only one button on the front and only one button on each sleeve, and jacket pockets should be jetted, no flaps. Tux trousers should be flat front and uncuffed, with side adjusters and (if you will use them) suspender buttons. No belt loops. No belts with tuxedos.

The lapels should have facings made of either satin or grosgrain silk. Grosgrain is generally ribbed silk. All the jacket buttons should be covered in the same material as the facings. In addition, the tux trousers should have one line of braid down each side in the same material as the facings. However, it's possible your tailor won't have access to grosgrain silk for the facings, ask him. Grosgrain has become an iGent favorite; it's less flashy than satin, literally, since it is less reflective. Both satin and grosgrain can be made out of silk or something else.

Tuxes can be fully canvassed -- there is no difference in the cavanssing of a tux from the canvassing of any other suit.

Not sure about the waistcoat detail.

 

[harry2quinn]

Thanks for the tips...

Originally Posted by The_Foxx

check out the article in the Rake on black tie-- there are some great photos in the magazine, as well, which may also be on the website:
...
note: if you're having it made, DO NOT go with satin lapels, man!!! this is your chance to have ribbed silk trimmings, a rare and special tux indeed.
Checking out the article. On the silk, I dunno if they'll have that around here, but I'll definitely check.

Originally Posted by medwards

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=124756
Gah! A 40-page thread... still trying to read it though.

Originally Posted by RJman

Putting on my Manton hat:

Tuxes are supposed to have a minimum of detail. That means that the jacket should be unvented, with only one button on the front and only one button on each sleeve, and jacket pockets should be jetted, no flaps. Tux trousers should be flat front and uncuffed, with side adjusters and (if you will use them) suspender buttons. No belt loops. No belts with tuxedos.

The lapels should have facings made of either satin or grosgrain silk. Grosgrain is generally ribbed silk. All the jacket buttons should be covered in the same material as the facings. In addition, the tux trousers should have one line of braid down each side in the same material as the facings. However, it's possible your tailor won't have access to grosgrain silk for the facings, ask him. Grosgrain has become an iGent favorite; it's less flashy than satin, literally, since it is less reflective. Both satin and grosgrain can be made out of silk or something else.

Tuxes can be fully canvassed -- there is no difference in the cavanssing of a tux from the canvassing of any other suit.

Not sure about the waistcoat detail.

Thanks - I think I'll get the suspender buttons, and I appreciate the canvassing info too.. although I might get vents based on what I read in Manton's thread, since they can be closed up later if desired.

 

[ColumbiaKai]

For the waistcoat, go with a U shape instead of a V.

And, as others have said, grosgrain is much nicer than satin. Satin is a bit to flashy, shiney and altogether too Hollywood.

The tie you wear should be of the same grosgrain (or satin) as used on the jacket and waistcoat.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by ColumbiaKai

The tie you wear should be of the same grosgrain (or satin) as used on the jacket and waistcoat.

QFT. Get enough extra grosgrain for two sized bow ties and have them made (Drake's London will do it as will I'm sure a dozen other places). If you don't get the silk at the time you'll never find a match.

 

[JLibourel]

If the OP is a normal-sized guy, isn't 3.25 meters of suiting cloth cutting it very close and almost surely not enough if he wants a vest?

 

[harry2quinn]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

If the OP is a normal-sized guy, isn't 3.25 meters of suiting cloth cutting it very close and almost surely not enough if he wants a vest?

I've had 2-piece suits done with 3m before... a vest on its own would probably be .5m, but when made with the rest of the suit, it shouldn't take as much material... especially since the tuxedo waistcoat's form factor should take less material.

Also, I'm not sure if the tailor can pull off the split back trousers designed for suspenders (as depicted in the Rake article), would it be alright to just get normal pants (except, of course, the side braid)?

 

[The_Foxx]

yeah, I'd skip the split back trousers and get a set with side adjusters and suspender buttons, or even trousers that sit lower like your belted trousers do, but use the side adjusters to keep them in place.

as for the necktie, grosgrain ties (or faille, in a lighter material) are pretty easy to find-- wouldn't worry about matching it exactly to the lapels or anything. the construction of the tux (shoulders not too wide or too padded, the covered buttons, and trim along the trouser seams) are much more important and more difficult to get "right" in my opinion

 

[Montrachet]

My tux is bespoke. For tuxedo pants, I would recommend pleats, no side-tabs and suspender buttons only. This is traditional and keeps a clean waistband. Historically, grosgrain has been considered a more formal facing than satin, so that's a good choice. Do get enough not only for the lapels and the braiding on the trousers, but also for the bow tie and the button coverings. Single button cuffs on the jacket is something I've not heard of before for a tux, normally it's always four. For the waistcoat, if you're going with a V-shaped front as you'd wear with white-tie, then do get lapels on there. That shape is also good if you want a backless vest. Otherwise, I like a more classically cut waistcoat for black tie without lapels in a deep U-shaped front.