Time to play guess the designer

[The_Foxx]

my guess is faconnable

 

[naturlaut]

Before I even try to guess the designer/maker (I can't, I don't know that many), I really think the jacket is interesting.  Other than the obviously shoulder 'patches' (which are identically non-pattern-matched on both sides), I also notice the patched cuffs and the flapped 'safari' pockets, which are all perfectly pattern-matched.  The shirt collar has not the usual 5mm edge stitch, so, no, I don't think it's Borrelli or any of the Neapolitans.  The button stance is normal for a RTW jacket; a bit lower than the Neapolitans, but some hint of the Roman style.  I am very tempted to say Brioni.

I want to know if there is a name to this kind of coat.  At first look, it doesn't speak either English or Italian to me, and I feel a bit confused looking at it.  Even if it has an English label, it is probably made in Italy.  Please enlighten.

 

[LA Guy]

I am very tempted to say Brioni.

I withdraw my Paul Smith, and make Brioni my second guess as well.

 

[Mike C.]

It looks very structured, so it would be along Brioni lines, and the shoulder too.

I'd say it is close to Brioni, which is a good guess, but it isn't really Brioni. Maybe something Brioni made for the Italian market only. The US definately didn't get this coat.

 

[Nick M]

I'm guessing Pal Zileri.

 

[naturlaut]

That's another good guess. I noticed that the pick stitching are rather machine-looking, and there are none on the pockets. It's probably something along the level of Pal Zileri.

 

[imageWIS]

Quote:

(LA Guy @ 06 Jan. 2005, 12:58) Quote Any gino brand gets my vote based on the garish popped collar. Just add a Von Dutch hat and you're good to go.
What the hell? First off, notice that the "popped collar" is functional, likely inspired by traditional English designs. Not that that matters. Second, a "gino" brand? Seriously, what the **** is the matter with you?
What's the matter? Come to Montreal and go to just about any nightclub, and then you'll see what's the matter. Popped collars are like the calling cards of grease balls in this country. They're so lame.[/quote] You know I just came back for a 2 week vacation in Argentina, and I stayed mostly in Buenos Aires with excursions to La Plata and Rosario and with an Italian / Spanish population as big as the one found in Argentina you would think that someone would have sported a popped collar. But, alas... Jon. Oh, yeah: P.S. only a person of low erudition and intellect would degrade an entire segment of the human population based on narrow-minded and stereotypical notions, expressed through unimaginative slurs. To echo L.A. Guy, what the **** is the matter with you?

 

[PHV]

Quote:

(PHV @ 06 Jan. 2005, 4:50)

Originally Posted by LA Guy,06 Jan. 2005, 12:58

Quote Any gino brand gets my vote based on the garish popped collar. Just add a Von Dutch hat and you're good to go.
What the hell? Â First off, notice that the "popped collar" is functional, likely inspired by traditional English designs. Â Not that that matters. Â Second, a "gino" brand? Â Seriously, what the **** is the matter with you?
What's the matter? Come to Montreal and go to just about any nightclub, and then you'll see what's the matter. Popped collars are like the calling cards of grease balls in this country. They're so lame.
You know I just came back for a 2 week vacation in Argentina, and I stayed mostly in Buenos Aires with excursions to La Plata and Rosario and with an Italian / Spanish population as big as the one found in Argentina you would think that someone would have sported a popped collar. But, alas... Jon. Oh, yeah: P.S. only a person of low erudition and intellect would degrade an entire segment of the human population based on narrow-minded and stereotypical notions, expressed through unimaginative slurs. To echo L.A. Guy, what the **** is the matter with you?[/quote] A gino is not refering to a race. It's refering to an All American Jackass. "Ginos" wear popped collars, Von Dutch hats, Burberry scarves, often are head to toe in Lacoste. The specific Gino style really started with stuff you'd find at Monaco... or the upper end ones wear a lot of A/X. It's a look I'm refering to, one of brand whores. People here seem to use the term "Chav" quite freely, but there seems to be no uproar about how demeaning it truely is. So save the "what the **** is wrong with you" and put it down your own throat.

 

[PHV]

Quote:

What's the matter? Come to Montreal and go to just about any nightclub, and then you'll see what's the matter. Popped collars are like the calling cards of grease balls in this country. They're so lame
I love Montreal, although I am definitely a Leafs fan. Â And while I think that popped collars and trucker caps are lame (why is it that trends that died a year ago die so hard outside of NYC and LA?), is there really a need to call guys "greaseballs?" Â I mean, the slagging of specific ethnicities is just uncalled for. Â Well, I guess that we can make an exception for the French and their surrendering ways Â

I call them greaseballs, because the typical popped collar, von dutch, puma shoes etc... has half a gallon of gel in his hair. It's nothing racial. I've seen every color of the rainbow sport this very popular look, so I certainly don't see where everyone is drawing the racial dig from.

 

[imageWIS]

Quote:

(imageWIS @ 06 Jan. 2005, 7:13)

Originally Posted by PHV,06 Jan. 2005, 4:50

Originally Posted by LA Guy,06 Jan. 2005, 12:58

Quote Any gino brand gets my vote based on the garish popped collar. Just add a Von Dutch hat and you're good to go.
What the hell? First off, notice that the "popped collar" is functional, likely inspired by traditional English designs. Not that that matters. Second, a "gino" brand? Seriously, what the **** is the matter with you?
What's the matter? Come to Montreal and go to just about any nightclub, and then you'll see what's the matter. Popped collars are like the calling cards of grease balls in this country. They're so lame.
You know I just came back for a 2 week vacation in Argentina, and I stayed mostly in Buenos Aires with excursions to La Plata and Rosario and with an Italian / Spanish population as big as the one found in Argentina you would think that someone would have sported a popped collar. But, alas... Jon. Oh, yeah: P.S. only a person of low erudition and intellect would degrade an entire segment of the human population based on narrow-minded and stereotypical notions, expressed through unimaginative slurs. To echo L.A. Guy, what the **** is the matter with you?
A gino is not refering to a race. It's refering to an All American Jackass. "Ginos" wear popped collars, Von Dutch hats, Burberry scarves, often are head to toe in Lacoste. The specific Gino style really started with stuff you'd find at Monaco... or the upper end ones wear a lot of A/X. It's a look I'm refering to, one of brand whores. People here seem to use the term "Chav" quite freely, but there seems to be no uproar about how demeaning it truely is. So save the "what the **** is wrong with you" and put it down your own throat.[/quote] My, My, My. Such temper. I see that you did not denounce your use of grease ball, did you? For all your raving towards a centrist potion after that of which you have posted, you are unable to back up your argument with credible proof your new, apparently tolerant position. Sad really. If I would have noticed another ethnic slur used in the forum I would have denounced it then, but alas I am unable to be everywhere at once. Jon. The only thing currently going down my throat is Godiva White Chocolate Cream Heart's.

 

[Fuuma]

"Gino" is Quebecker slang for a really macho "chav" or some other sort of inbread wifebeater. That's the way it's used here and it doesn't have any sort of racist connotation. I've heard it used elsewhere as something else. So IMHO PHV wasn't aiming for any kind of racial slur... This jacket looks like a Barbera made with a Fabric Etro would use.....in other words I have no idea

 

[PHV]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHV,06 Jan. 2005, 10:17

Originally Posted by imageWIS,06 Jan. 2005, 7:13

Originally Posted by PHV,06 Jan. 2005, 4:50

Originally Posted by LA Guy,06 Jan. 2005, 12:58

Any gino brand gets my vote based on the garish popped collar. Just add a Von Dutch hat and you're good to go.

What the hell? Â First off, notice that the "popped collar" is functional, likely inspired by traditional English designs. Â Not that that matters. Â Second, a "gino" brand? Â Seriously, what the **** is the matter with you?
What's the matter? Come to Montreal and go to just about any nightclub, and then you'll see what's the matter. Popped collars are like the calling cards of grease balls in this country. They're so lame.
You know I just came back for a 2 week vacation in Argentina, and I stayed mostly in Buenos Aires with excursions to La Plata and Rosario and with an Italian / Spanish population as big as the one found in Argentina you would think that someone would have sported a popped collar. But, alas... Jon. Oh, yeah: P.S. only a person of low erudition and intellect would degrade an entire segment of the human population based on narrow-minded and stereotypical notions, expressed through unimaginative slurs. To echo L.A. Guy, what the **** is the matter with you?
A gino is not refering to a race. It's refering to an All American Jackass. "Ginos" wear popped collars, Von Dutch hats, Burberry scarves, often are head to toe in Lacoste. The specific Gino style really started with stuff you'd find at Monaco... or the upper end ones wear a lot of A/X. It's a look I'm refering to, one of brand whores. People here seem to use the term "Chav" quite freely, but there seems to be no uproar about how demeaning it truely is. So save the "what the **** is wrong with you" and put it down your own throat.
My, My, My. Such temper. I see that you did not denounce your use of grease ball, did you? For all your raving towards a centrist potion after that of which you have posted, you are unable to back up your argument with credible proof your new, apparently tolerant position. Sad really. If I would have noticed another ethnic slur used in the forum I would have denounced it then, but alas I am unable to be everywhere at once. Jon. Â The only thing currently going down my throat is Godiva White Chocolate Cream Heart's.
I'd appreciate it if you didn't takes stabs in the dark about my intelligence or alledged lack thereof. I think I quite clearly stated the social context in which I label these individuals, not unlike GQ's "All American Jackass". I suppose that has racist connotations as well? Funny you should say that you would denounce "racist" connotations if you would see them. The term "chav" has been slung about in countless threads on this forum of late, and you are hardly a person who posts exclusively. I think your consciousness on the issue is only exclusive to my case out of convenience. I have no idea why you felt the need to attack me, and in future I'd prefer that if you have nothing nice to say about me, then you either respectfully disagree with my post, or eat some more of that cheap rubbish you were bragging about in your last post. Good day.

 

[JDMcDaniel]

Off-topic proceeds on-topic, which is below the astrisks...

PHV -- I think what should be taken from this is that in the US both "gino" and "greaseball" are both derogatory terms for Italians.  

It is reasonable that you didn't know this, but the fact remains that many people on this board assumed you were using them in this way.  

It is quite odd that the same two words have come to bear on a completely different class of individuals.  In fact, the etymology of your usage could be rooted in the American anti-Italian usage.  If so, one could legitimately be offended by your posts, even if the modern Montreal/Canadian definition of "gino" and "greaseball" doesn't apply to Italians per se (similar to the offensiveness of the term "******&quot.

**************************************

Is it just me or do the jacket front pieces overlap quite substantially? Can anyone provide some context to such a design, such as its functionality (warmer?), the way it changes the aesthetics of the jacket when worn (likely it results in a very closed skirt, no? How does this look unbuttoned?), and the sartorial tradition from which it derives or is most commonly seen (Continental or British?, city or country wear?)?

Thanks in advance.

Etro seems like a great guess if only the jacket were visible, but the shirt, tie, and vest are so staid. Can any info be gleaned from the mannequin and brick background? The jacket is tagged and so might be from a window display rather than an ad shoot. I have never seen an Etro shop with this backing.

Oh, and my guess is J. Press.

 

[gorgekko]

"Gino" is Quebecker slang for a really macho "chav" or some other sort of inbread wifebeater. That's the way it's used here and it doesn't have any sort of racist connotation. I've heard it used elsewhere as something else. So IMHO PHV wasn't aiming for any kind of racial slur...

I don't know what Quebecois mean by "gino" but across the border here in Ontario it is a slur, though mild compared to "person of Italian descent", meant for Italians. I've never heard it have any other meaning.

 

[Phil]

As an italian man, yes, the terms gino and greaseball are pretty offensive. They kind of fall in the same catagory as guido. A step below person of Italian descent and guinea, but above some of the more mild ones I hear now and again. Using the excuse that in Canada that what you call "jackass" type guys is kind of a silly excuse. PHV, Im sure you meant nothing by it, but I am telling you that its pretty offensive. Not the end of the world by any means, but maybe you could lighten up on the derogatory slang.

So Alexis, who makes the coat?