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Time for a pair of burgundy shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by niomosy, Jan 28, 2016.

  1. niomosy

    niomosy Active Member

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    Negotiations with the House Finance Committee have completed. Budget has been approved. I'm now on the hunt for a pair of burgundy (or family of...) shoes and seeking help and advice.

    Budget is $1000 max so I have some flexibility but the high-end makers are out... for now.

    Purpose: work (business casual IT) though if it works with jeans, that's nice as well.

    What I've already got: Black AE PA, black Feraggamo monk straps.

    Size: US 10.5D.

    Style: I've got a current love for wholecuts, I must admit. Plain toes might also be a consideration. Maybe cap toes or two-eyelet derbies though it would probably have to be rather impressive to sway me. Rounded toe. Out for this pair: any type of brogue, monks, boots. I've already got my eyes on some monks / chukkas for later ;)

    Thoughts so far:

    Vass and Enzo Bonafe seem right in there with both having models up my alley but I'm not locked down to anything just yet. Carmina has some shell wholecuts up that I've considered but not sure I want to go with shell for this pair.
     
  2. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Those stipulations seem strange to me for a third pair of shoes after a black stitch-cap bal and black monks--especially since they're to be worn in business casual settings. Why not a dark brown shoe before a burgundy? Dark brown is more versatile than burgundy. Why not a wingtip balmoral? Why not plain-toed chukka boots? IMO, a wholecut balmoral is too formal for business casual.

    Anyway, here's a shoe that satisfies your criteria and is under your budget. Shell #8 might be too dark for you, but it's probably the most versatile shade of burgundy. Split toe Norwegian derby in shell cordovan #8. On Alden's smart round toe last, the Aberdeen.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2016
  3. rbhan12

    rbhan12 Senior member

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    Lots of good burgundy EB options at skoaktiebolaget. I agree that you should get a brown shoe as well. You can get two pairs of Carmina with your $1000 budget.
     
  4. niomosy

    niomosy Active Member

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    Personal preference, really. My collection of gray/navy slacks, to my eye, look better with burgundy than brown. Brown is rather low on my interest scale. Were I dressing in more earthen tones, I'd likely consider brown a bit more heavily. Chukkas are in the mix and, depending on pricing, might end up in this purchase as well. I've tried on a pair of Lobb Highgates that I really had a difficult time taking off and leaving at the store. Self preservation eventually won out, though. Wingtips would require the right shoe. I would actually like to pick up a pair of austerity brogues at some point in the future.

    Shell #8 is a beautiful color and it's not too dark. I'd say even Vass' oxblood is in the mix. It doesn't have to be a straight burgundy. Something in that family of colors is fine. That's a nice looking Alden. I hadn't been thinking along those lines for shoes but it could certainly work. Then again, that I wasn't thinking along those lines is why I decided to post; to help get some ideas.

    Thank you for your help.
     
  5. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Got it. If you wanted a 500 USD calf shoe, and if a semi-brogue is okay, then Alden's 908 in burgundy might be an option.

    [​IMG]

    It's on the Hampton last, which is a dead ringer for (actually a bit sleeker than) EG's 202 last, just as the Aberdeen can compete with EG's celebrated 82 last (it's really like EG 184). Hampton is slightly wider in the forefoot than Aberdeen, and a bit more curved and less pointed in the toe. Still a smart last, and I think it works especially well with the semi-brogue.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2016
  6. niomosy

    niomosy Active Member

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    You know, I'd mostly forgotten about Alden given their burgundy is typically pretty limited to a few models and some shell #8. I'll need to rethink that.

    Meanwhile I'm also eyeing the Paul Evans oxblood shoes. It's a bit more on the red hue but the cap toes could work. Also considering some Vass options as he seems to have burgundy, bordeaux, oxblood, and red cognac which all are still in the family while offering up some nice variances. Made To Order Paris has a fantastic Vass plain toe with toe medallion in red cognac (can't link as the proxy at work has it listed as malware).

    I must admit, while I do love the wholecut, I think I may reserve those for later in a pair of G&G in Vintage Rioja.
     
  7. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    You wouldn't be alone in forgetting Alden: a lot here forget that they offer some attractive city shoes along with their gunboats and casual footwear. The Paul Evans stitch cap looks like a decent Italian Blake stitched shoe: too bright a red for me, and I think stitch-cap is too formal for business casual, but YMMV. Alden offers a lot more widths than D, though, so you'd probably get a better fit than the Evans.

    Vass's oxblood is a whole different kettle of fish. Vass are something of a specialist in oxblood, and they make superb shoes, by pretty much anybody's standards. And since you can MTO it, you could in principle get an even better fit than in Alden.


    P.S. I'm not wild about the exaggerated toe spring on the Paul Evans. Not the best for comfort in the forefoot, I'd think. Compare to this Hampton last Alden:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
  8. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    At that budget limit I'd go straight to Vass or Bonafe and pocket the not insignificant wad of leftover cash.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    I disagree with that quite strongly. I'd say medium brown is arguably more versatile than burgundy, which is in turn far more versatile than dark brown. My dark brown shoes - one casual and one dressy - are my least worn pairs. My Vass Oxblood and Bordeaux and my Cleverly burgundy I wear all the freaking time.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Although there are a lot of options, I'd hazard the OP to pick up shoes that he could try on. With EB, Vass, or other European SF-preferred brands, you might be heartbroken when you get them and the fit isn't optimal. There is always the argument to "jump in" but in my case, it took trying a handful of different brands/lasts for me to really understand what fits well.

    If you're in NYC, Chi-town, LA/OC, or SF, maybe go to shops to see what's appealing. If you're not, how about take a flight to one of those cities, stay a weekend, and use the remainder to pick up shoes (okay, you might have to fork over a couple hundred $ more for board).

    You mentioned wholecuts but if you're in a business casual environment, wholecuts or plain toes would not work the best. I'd grab a half brogue (think G&G St. James) or full brogue (EG Malvern) for patterns. I do like reds and browns but I have the clothes to work with them. :)
     
  11. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    I count EG Dark Oak as Dark Brown, though right at the edge with mid brown. [​IMG]
    So I do think Dark Oak along with the deeper shades are more versatile than burgundy/oxblood. For me, medium browns are anything lighter than dark oak and deeper than tan, like chestnut:

    [​IMG]
    I like them, but do not think they are as versatile as dark brown. They might be as versatile as burgundy/oxblood. So depends on how you define dark brown. I'd agree that Tricker's Espresso might not come out of the closet as much.

    [​IMG]


    I agree with SuitedDX's advice. Good fit matters.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
  12. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    I don't.

    In the pic below, the DOAK upper I would describe as medium brown and the Walnut CC shaft as dark brown. If they were both dark brown there wouldn't be much contrast, would there?


    [​IMG]
    Borrowing Skoak's pic, I describe the pairs below, left to right - Dark Brown, Medium Brown, Medium Brown, Tan

    [​IMG]

    Of course, there's no universally accepted dividing line so I'll just drop it an move along to some burgundy inspiration for the OP

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
    2 people like this.
  13. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    I'd say both 1 and 2 are dark brown, 3 is medium brown (chestnut), 4 light brown (light chestnut). I agree with you that 2 is more versatile than 1; I also think 2's more versatile than dark oxblood.

    EG Dark Oak seems to change with the seasons. [​IMG]
     
  14. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    Wholecut vass burgundy museum calf u last.
     
  15. niomosy

    niomosy Active Member

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    Thanks for all the added replies, gents. I'll try and tackle multiple comments.

    Vass and Bonafe are pretty high on the list. I'd still need to research fit a bit more to nail down what to get if I go that route. I'm in LA and so can always make the drive to San Diego and try out a few things there. I've already tried out a couple pair of John Lobb that were fantastic. I certainly wouldn't mind trying on some more shoes in the near future. Pity the wife killed the length of our NoCal trip. I was supposed to stop by at least one or two places up north to try things on.

    Brogues. I think I might go for a toe medallion at most right now. I'm just starting to warm to them after having a dislike of them for decades so I'm probably not quite ready to jump in that far just yet. I could see it as an additional pair down the line a bit as a possibility, though.

    Wholecut Vass is might tempting, I can't deny it.

    @RogerP, damn that's some nice burgundy options right there. That first boot is beautiful. Any info on it? Actually, same question for the double monks.
     
  16. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Cheers. The first pair of boots shown are Edward Green Galways in DOAK ( Dark OAK) and Walnut Country Calf on the 82 Last. The dub monks are by Vass, in Oxblood on the K last.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. niomosy

    niomosy Active Member

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    Ahh, Vass oxblood. That's a fantastic color. That EG Dark Oak has a reddish tint to it, at least to my eye. It's definitely a nice color.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Agreed on both counts. Come to think of it, I think all of what Roger calls "medium brown" has a red tint. I agree with him that red-tinted browns are more versatile than gray-tinted browns, like the Tricker's espresso.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. niomosy

    niomosy Active Member

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    Indeed. A reddish brown tone is definitely more versatile to my eye. These threads are always fun. You might often end up with more questions than answers :D
     
  20. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Reddish browns rank among my favourite shades of footwear. Some are embraced by what I describe as medium brown but they do not define the term for me.
     
    1 person likes this.

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