dukeaw
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2013
- Messages
- 126
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All,
I recently had proper mtm suit made by a local tailor. It is very soft canvas, unpadded shoulders, 3.5 inch lapels with medium gorge 4 inches from shoulder, on trousers a single reverse pleat with 1.75 inch cuff. Upon first fitting the fit was very good. However it was quite restrictive in the back. It lay completely clean and looked wonderful, but I could barely raise my arm to shake a hand, drive a car, or eat. I asked the tailor to let it out a bit. He did. He didnt want to since he didnt want to ruin the clean lines of the back. I told him I didnt expect to stand like a soldier every time I was wearing the jacket. He let it out about 1/4 an inch on each side. But its still somewhat restrictive. I can now raise my arms to shake a hand, drive a car, or eat, but it still feels binding and like I'm fighting the fabric at the top of the movement and cannot give hugs without feeling tight (I give a lot of hugs when I see people in my line of work).
I was looking at pictures on permanentstyle.com and it looks like the bespoke suits there vary from a completely clean back to having some folds of fabric along the edges of the shoulder blades.
I wear my jacket all day and do not take it off, so I like to live with it. I dont expect to throw a football, but I like to be able to get in the car and drive without being forced to take it off.
My question is, what is the acceptable tradeoff between excess fabric draping on the upper back of the suit jacket versus a completely clean back that lays flat against the back? What is considered proper without looking sloppy?
I recently had proper mtm suit made by a local tailor. It is very soft canvas, unpadded shoulders, 3.5 inch lapels with medium gorge 4 inches from shoulder, on trousers a single reverse pleat with 1.75 inch cuff. Upon first fitting the fit was very good. However it was quite restrictive in the back. It lay completely clean and looked wonderful, but I could barely raise my arm to shake a hand, drive a car, or eat. I asked the tailor to let it out a bit. He did. He didnt want to since he didnt want to ruin the clean lines of the back. I told him I didnt expect to stand like a soldier every time I was wearing the jacket. He let it out about 1/4 an inch on each side. But its still somewhat restrictive. I can now raise my arms to shake a hand, drive a car, or eat, but it still feels binding and like I'm fighting the fabric at the top of the movement and cannot give hugs without feeling tight (I give a lot of hugs when I see people in my line of work).
I was looking at pictures on permanentstyle.com and it looks like the bespoke suits there vary from a completely clean back to having some folds of fabric along the edges of the shoulder blades.
I wear my jacket all day and do not take it off, so I like to live with it. I dont expect to throw a football, but I like to be able to get in the car and drive without being forced to take it off.
My question is, what is the acceptable tradeoff between excess fabric draping on the upper back of the suit jacket versus a completely clean back that lays flat against the back? What is considered proper without looking sloppy?
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