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tightness/drape in upper back of suit, or question on mobility

dukeaw

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All,

I recently had proper mtm suit made by a local tailor. It is very soft canvas, unpadded shoulders, 3.5 inch lapels with medium gorge 4 inches from shoulder, on trousers a single reverse pleat with 1.75 inch cuff. Upon first fitting the fit was very good. However it was quite restrictive in the back. It lay completely clean and looked wonderful, but I could barely raise my arm to shake a hand, drive a car, or eat. I asked the tailor to let it out a bit. He did. He didnt want to since he didnt want to ruin the clean lines of the back. I told him I didnt expect to stand like a soldier every time I was wearing the jacket. He let it out about 1/4 an inch on each side. But its still somewhat restrictive. I can now raise my arms to shake a hand, drive a car, or eat, but it still feels binding and like I'm fighting the fabric at the top of the movement and cannot give hugs without feeling tight (I give a lot of hugs when I see people in my line of work).

I was looking at pictures on permanentstyle.com and it looks like the bespoke suits there vary from a completely clean back to having some folds of fabric along the edges of the shoulder blades.

I wear my jacket all day and do not take it off, so I like to live with it. I dont expect to throw a football, but I like to be able to get in the car and drive without being forced to take it off.

My question is, what is the acceptable tradeoff between excess fabric draping on the upper back of the suit jacket versus a completely clean back that lays flat against the back? What is considered proper without looking sloppy?
 
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breakaway01

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I think you already know the answer. The jacket has to give you enough freedom of movement to be able to comfortably drive a car, for example. If it feels too restrictive for the tasks that you perform on a daily basis then that's a problem. One thing to clarify is whether the tightness is due to insufficient fabric across the back. There are other reasons why a jacket may feel restrictive when you try to raise your arms e.g. armhole size, upper sleeve tightness.
 

dukeaw

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The reason is definitely upper back fabric and not armhole size or sleeve tightness.

I think you are right. I will go back to my tailor to get some extra room in the upper back
 

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