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Ties-handmade vs. hand finished

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jerrysfriend, Mar 12, 2005.

  1. jerrysfriend

    jerrysfriend Senior Member

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    I understand that ties by Hermes, Drakes, Kiton and Gucci are handmade while those by John Comfort and Faconable are just "hand finished." What is the difference? Isn't the back seam hand sewn on all of them hand sewn? Whay else is done by hand on the handmades? To me, all six brands seem of similiar very high quality.
     


  2. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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  3. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior Member

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    Even though better ties have (if untipped and unlined) the (hemmed) ends, the back seam, bar tacks, the loop/keeper and label(better not be one and the same.) sewn by hand, even the best do not avoid at least some amount of machine stitching. What are these operations?

    1. Joining the main pieces of the tie
    2. If lined, joining the two halves of the lining
    3. If tipped, attaching the tipping
     


  4. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Our friends at the ISO don't have standardized definitions of either, I'd imagine. Hand finished is perhaps a more honest way of saying handmade. John Comfort is mostly machinemade, with a machine that duplicates hand stitching. Someone once told me they make Hilditch & Key's standard tie range, which is very well made IMHO. Polo RL says that its ties are handmade. Maybe they are, even though they are not in the same price range as Hermes, etc.

    I don't think there is a consistent difference -- if any -- between ties labelled as hand finished or handmade.
     


  5. Jill

    Jill Senior Member

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    On standard construction ties, ie not folded, almost everything is done by machines with specific purposes like putting the lining in. Joining the pieces is almost always done by sewing machine (no good reason not to).

    A true seven is more handworked than anything... a machine is used to join pieces of silk but the edges, folding, slipknot, keeper, back seam, pressing is all by hand. A double-4 fold doesn't have the handrolled edge so the pieces can be joined around the lining by machine, then the rest is all done by hand. Thus far they have not (thankfully) attempted to make a machine that folds and presses the folded ties.
     


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