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Tie basics 101

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ennius, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    I agree with everything you wrote, except I must admit that my opinion of black ties is colored by my personal, low-contrast coloring and blue eyes. I'm sure others can look great in a black tie, but I just look better in blue.
     
  2. Garasaki

    Garasaki Senior member

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    I'm just saying, I think this is a great thread.

    I aquired a bunch of thrift and otherwise cheap ties early on. I've come to the conclusion that over 90% of those ties won't see the light of day again as I've developed some basic knowledge and personal style (and a more refined idea of what looks good).

    I'm actually struggling to make outfits out of my current tie stock, when a few months ago I thought that was my best and deepest inventory.

    I had actually recently come to a conclusion echoed in this thread, simple ties in staple colors are extremely elegant and versatile.

    What this thread has done for me, is take the basic concept (elegant ties in solid or primarily solid staple colors) and give me a shopping list, how to sort of thing.

    Thanks
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    :cheers:
     
  4. karwoski

    karwoski Active Member

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    If you wear a lot of blue shirts, and especially if you wear navy suits or jackets often, brown is a great tie color. I actually prefer something like a Hober bitter chocolate grenadine to the redder burgundy. A brown with light blue stripes or dots also looks great. They don't go with white shirts or grey jackets, so they're not quite as versatile as burgundy, but brown goes so well with blue, I'd consider a top 5 contender.

    For example, from MalfordOfLondon in the WAYWRN thread:

    [​IMG]

    There's a lot good with that outfit, but the tie is clearly the star. I don't see how a brown tie can't be top 10, at least.
     
  5. black_umbrella

    black_umbrella Senior member

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  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Brown ties can be lovely (wore my Hober dark chocolate grossa yesterday), but I don't think anyone really needs one as a core staple. Brown is a bit more discretionary; it can look great but you are also fine without it. Like green, pink and lilac, it's a great complement to the staples, not so much a staple itself IMO. Brown is similar to burgundy but less versatile, and if I only have five ties, I want to be able to put together a variety of looks and that means having ties that are very versatile or at least work extremely well in a particular situation.

    The sky won't exactly fall if you happen to love brown ties and have one in your top five, but I don't think they make it into the top five on the merits for the average person. To me it's more a matter of taste and saying that you happen to really like brown, which is fine, but I don't think I'd recommend a brown tie for the average person's top five. Black, burgundy, greys and blues are colors everyone should have in a decent tie wardrobe because they either fill an important role or work with a variety of different looks and don't attract too much notice. I wouldn't fault someone for omitting brown, green, pink or purple ties based on personal taste.
     
  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I probably wear brown more than any color, followed by navy and burgundy. I have three black ties, a knit from Rag and Bone, a grenadine from Henry Carter, and a...dunno....black on black floral tie from Banana Republic (it's a magnificent funeral tie; I've gotten complements from the immediate family of the deceased on several occasions. And this is why I go to funerals in the first place).

    Funerals are really the only occasion that everyone, at some point, will attend and that everyone, regardless of job or social position, will need to be wearing a tie. And there really isn't any other option than black. Navy won't cut it. I suppose dark charcoal might, but black is what is prescribed and there is more at work here than what visually works best.

    For myself, I think a brown fina grenadine would be my first tie. Then maybe a navy pindot. Then a solid burgundy. And only then a black grossa grenadine. One of the factors that hasn't been discussed is formality. A black necktie works better in the evenings than other colors (not in a formal wear context, mind you, but going out to a nice dinner, a black tie with a gray/navy suit and white/blue shirt is going to look better than any of the other colors.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2013
  8. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    There seems to be a general consensus emerging regarding what would be the five ties to own if you could own only five.

    What would be next, if you could own, say, ten? Would you include any striped ties, such as repp or regimental ties?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  9. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    I find a blue grenadine to be the most versatile tie I own.

    I find burgundy nearly as equally useful.

    I wear a hunter green tie a lot as well.

    Navy with pin dots ups the formality nicely when needed.

    I need to buy a brown knit, and a grey woolen tie.

    I own a black grenadine, but absolutely never wear it, apart from funerals.
     
  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    My top 5 would be a black grenadine, navy diamond weave or grenadine, silver / grey grenadine, burgundy grenadine or twill and a midnight blue with white pindots. Afer the first 5 or so, you should have your core staples covered and start looking at other options based on your personal taste.

    6 and 7 would be a light blue non-grenadine solid and a dark green grenadine.

    8, 9 and 10 would be a subtle pattern on a dark navy background, a solid pink diamond weave and a burgundy pindot.
     
  11. Ennius

    Ennius Senior member

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    Hey Gents,

    I am still trying to decide on the Hober Grenadine type: Grossa, Fina, Prometeo or Piccola.

    Any thoughts on these four different types? Its hard to really tell in a picture. Piccola seems to be my favorite so far.
     
  12. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Well, I believe that the grossa and prometeo are the coarser weaves. If the tie is solid (i.e., not patterned) I personally would prefer one of them for exactly that reason since in a solid tie the interest tends to be in the texture.

    If the tie has a pattern I might consider one of the others, but it would depend on how the pattern interacts with the weave.

    Ultimately, you're the one who's paying for it and wearing it, of course.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  13. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    I have grenadines in all four and like all four. Fina is more 'below the radar'; grossa is more noticeable. If you need to fly below the radar, then fina is a better bet.(*) Personally I like grossa best of all, although piccola is very nice too.

    Here's David's side by side comparison: http://www.samhober.com/grenadine.htm

    (*) Someone once said on one of these boards that a grossa had been mistaken for a knit. This doesn't strike me as a real world problem, but I can see in a very conservative environment that may be a cause of concern (given that a solid grenadine of any weave is a relatively formal tie and a knit decidedly is not).
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2013
  14. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    I am wearing a charcoal/silver hober Garza grossa with a blue jacket, white spread collar and white hank for a business event tonight and I can't imagine anyone thinking it inappropriate.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    +1. The silver / grey grossa is one of my go to ties when a navy suit / jacket and white shirt is involved. I've received nothing but compliments.
     
  16. porcelain monkey

    porcelain monkey Senior member

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    A lot of this comes down to personal taste. I like stripes, but some would call them "schoolboy ties." You can't go wrong with the Brooks Brothers #1 stripe in blue or red.

    [​IMG]

    Oh yeah, don't buy a black tie until you have about a dozen others. Navy will be just as versatile and not make you look like you just came from a funeral.
     
  17. Ennius

    Ennius Senior member

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  18. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Interesting point. Thanks. I never made that connection ("school boy") myself but now that you mention it I can understand why some might make that association.

    I agree that the BB in the photo looks very nice. By the way, I like the shirt too. What is it?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  19. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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  20. Poncho1992

    Poncho1992 Well-Known Member

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    Took your advice and went to TM Lewin and they had a sale on. Got this tie:
    http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Navy-Satin...t=52&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=colour&prefv1=Blue

    Now that I've seen the (much larger) sale online, thinking of ordering a few more. I gather these are the right colours(?!), so help me out with which ones to buy?

    Burgundy: http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Burgundy-O...=5&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=pattern&prefv1=Plain
    or perhaps this brown knit instead? http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Brown-Knit...48&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=pattern&prefv1=Plain

    Green herringbone: http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Green-Herr...18&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=pattern&prefv1=Plain
    or green knit? http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Green-Knit...33&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=pattern&prefv1=Plain

    Should I be looking at getting a silver/grey tie at this point as well? Bearing in mind so far I only have the one tie I posted above! Perhaps one of these? http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Silver-Her...21&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=pattern&prefv1=Plain or http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Grey-Ottom...26&cgid=Mens-Ties&prefn1=pattern&prefv1=Plain

    These are the best prices i've seen recently so thought i'd get a few while I can.
     

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