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Ticket pocket/Chan question

Stu

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Just recently, someone, I think it was Vintage Gent., posted a photo of his new Chan suit and some people thought the ticket pocket was too high. I have searched high and low for this thread and cannot find it. I was curious to revisit it and see if someone had any info on how far the ticket pocket should be placed from the regular pocket. I thought the ticket pocket might be a bit higher than it should be as well.

Absent the thread, which I cannot seem to find, does anyone have any idea on ticket pocket placement in relation to the regular pocket?
 

dah328

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Have you steamed your Chan suit, yet? If so, is the lapel roll/belly more to your expectation?

dan
 

Vintage Gent

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Have you steamed your Chan suit, yet? If so, is the lapel roll/belly more to your expectation?

dan
I haven't, since it will have to be shuttled back to Hong Kong for alterations any way. Strangely enough, though, the roll has started to appear on its own.
 

Manton

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Absent the thread, which I cannot seem to find, does anyone have any idea on ticket pocket placement in relation to the regular pocket?
The pockets themselves (that is, opening to opening) are supposed to be 3" apart, give or take depending on a person's height. This means that the bottom of the ticket pocket's flap should be about 1" or maybe 1 1/4" above the bottom pocket's opening. Also, the ticket pocket should be just a hair "forward" or "inside" the hip pocket.
 

Brian SD

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(Stu @ Feb. 15 2005,16:57) Absent the thread, which I cannot seem to find, does anyone have any idea on ticket pocket placement in relation to the regular pocket?
The pockets themselves (that is, opening to opening) are supposed to be 3" apart, give or take depending on a person's height. This means that the bottom of the ticket pocket's flap should be about 1" or maybe 1 1/4" above the bottom pocket's opening. Also, the ticket pocket should be just a hair "forward" or "inside" the hip pocket.
You mean that the ticket pocket's inside edge (closer to the buttons) should be more inside? Here are some crappy drawings to illustrate what I'm asking. Are you saying it's ===== ====== ? = is pocket or do you mean that the ticket pocket should not be the full width of the bottom pocket (also illustrated above)?
 

Manton

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Both. The typical front hip pocket on (say) a 42 coat is 6 1/2" long. The ticket pocket should be 4" or a little less (3 3/4"). And its inner edge should not line up perfectly flush with that of the hip pocket. Curiously, if it does, the shape of the coat creates an optical illusion that the ticket pocket is actually too far back and not flush at all. Also, the front inner edges of the coat (those that hang down from the waist button) are generally angled out to some degree, and the line of two pockets should mimic that. So good tailors place the ticket pocket a little bit forward.
 

Stu

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Manton, as per your comment on depending on the height of the person: How would height affect placement? For example, I am 5 10 - 5' 11" and about 180 pounds. neither tall nor short. Would that placement hold true for a man of my size?
 

Manton

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Manton, as per your comment on depending on the height of the person: How would height affect placement? For example, I am 5 10 - 5' 11" and about 180 pounds. neither tall nor short. Would that placement hold true for a man of my size?
Yes. You could ask for 1/8" closer, but any but the most fanatic and meticulous tailor would look at you like you were crazy.
 

retronotmetro

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I'm 5'11" and the ticket pockets on my straight-pocket WW Chan coats run a little bit over 3.5" vertically from opening to opening, and they seem just slightly too far apart to my untrained eye. Â Observe:
P1000182.jpg
Interestingly, my comment in the other thread was that I'd like the pockets to be about .25" to .5" closer together. Â This would seem to be an instance where proportion drives the "rules" (standards?).
 

Doctor Crane

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Has anyone seen the "new and hip" look of the ticket pocket? It's placed either directly on top of the lower one or overlapping it with no space between the two pockets. I think Paul Smith and other similar brands are guilty of this style. There's pictures of this out there somewhere on the internet and if I wasn't so lazy I'd post an example.
 

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