Ticket Pocket + Center Vent?

[morse]

J. Press currently carrying a darted, 2 button navy blazer with ticket pocket. For $525, and fully canvassed (I was told, didn't have time to do a full pinch test, but it sure draped like a canvassed coat) this represents a fantastic value (especially when compared to Brooks' offerings). I went and tried it, and believe it or not, the fit is fantastic (I am normally an impossible fit, 40" chest and 30" waist), with nice waist supression. I know that some consider ticket pockets trendy or a fad; however, I think they are a nice touch, especially on an otherwise boring piece such as a navy blazer. However, one element concerned me- the coat is center vented. This struck me as odd, since the ticket pocket is a British convention, while the center vent is an American one (as opposed to side vents, which are British). Does the center vent render this piece a strange sort of hybrid, or is this an acceptable combination?

 

[bcate3]

Others more knowledgeable can correct, but I think the style is consistent with a hacking jacket. This style is also seen in double vent, but the single is not wrong and may be more in line with the jacket's equestrian origins. See also: http://www.tweed-jacket.com/JACKET%2...et%20Page.html

Just be sure it's really a hacking jacket and not a shapeless single vent sack with a ticket pocket. that would look like a frankenstein in my eyes.

 

[summej2]

I don't care for a ticket pocket on blazer, but it is fine on a suit or odd jacket, regardless of the type of rear vent.

 

[morse]

It's definitely not a sack coat (it is darted), but the pockets are not slanted as on a hacking coat.

 

[TRINI]

edited.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by bcate3

Others more knowledgeable can correct, but I think the style is consistent with a hacking jacket. This style is also seen in double vent, but the single is not wrong and may be more in line with the jacket's equestrian origins. See also: http://www.tweed-jacket.com/JACKET%2...et%20Page.html

Just be sure it's really a hacking jacket and not a shapeless single vent sack with a ticket pocket. that would look like a frankenstein in my eyes.

This is correct. A hacking jacket, where a ticket pocket is most at home and in its element, was traditionally cut with a center vent. The pockets would be angled (hacking pockets). The other traditional elements would be a slightly longer length and a three button front.

Given that this is a two button navy (not tweed) sportcoat (you didn't say, but I am guessing the pockets are straight), I would think of this as a blazer with a ticket pocket rather than a modified hacking jacket. In that case, the ticket pocket if fine if you like it. I wouldn't let the center cent bother you just because of the ticket pocket. The advantages of side vents is that they typically look better than a single vent on most people. If the single looks good on you, then it looks good.

 

[Edward Appleby]

What's the history of a ticket pocket being at home on a hacking jacket? I always thought that ticket pockets were for tickets for plays and shows and the like and thus would be less appropriate on a jacket designed for riding.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Edward Appleby

What's the history of a ticket pocket being at home on a hacking jacket? I always thought that ticket pockets were for tickets for plays and shows and the like and thus would be less appropriate on a jacket designed for riding.
Legend has it, that it was for handy access to tolls while riding. Incidentally, the Brit tailors often refer to it as an outside cash pocket. "Ticket pocket" might be an attempt to make it seem more generally applicable.

 

[grimslade]

I believe it is an error to describe the center vent as an American innovation and side vents as coming from Britain. At least as a matter of historical fact, as opposed to current fashion.

 

[morse]

Originally Posted by grimslade

I believe it is an error to describe the center vent as an American innovation and side vents as coming from Britain. At least as a matter of historical fact, as opposed to current fashion.
I am not aware of the exact origins of either style of vent- however, as you mention, I was referring to current fashion. My understanding is that the center vent is featured on most traditional American offerings, such as those from Southwick, Hickey Freeman (the Madison model), and Press, while side vents are typically associated with a European cut (either British or Italian). I do prefer side vents, but I'm not sure it'd be possible to find a navy blazer of this quality and fit for $525 + whatever it costs to shorten the sleeves. So, I may just accept the center vent. The only relevant alternative that comes to mind is the Black Label blazer (even the PRL blazer is center vented), which has side vents...but costs $1300, and is of only equal, or perhaps worse quality than the Press offering.