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Three-Piece Suit Buttoning Conventions Different by Country and Time Period?

ConservativEccentric

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I often wear a three-piece suit or a two-piece suit with a sweater vest, but I recently came across the claim that a suit is not meant to be buttoned when wearing a vest. Is this a modern convention, one followed in America rather than the UK, or have I just been ignorantly wearing my suits wrong all this time? And does this differ depending on whether the vest is odd, matching, or a sweater?

I have additionally become confused lately by differing opinions on whether the bottom button of one's waistcoat is to be left undone or not, and if this varies whether one is or is not wearing their jacket?

And what about the last button on topcoats, overcoats, and frock coats?

And a final question: While someone wearing a modern suit with the last button fastened looks like a rube, what about a vintage jacket, or a jacket based on a vintage pattern, from before Edward VII's obesity first made it a thing? I would assume, unlike a modern jacket, that a jacket from before this time should be fully buttoned and would drape incorrectly otherwise? Does anyone know the date when the convention of leaving the last button undone was widely adopted by tailors, changing the placement of the button holes?
 
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rjc149

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I can't speak for the UK. In the US, particularly in regions where men still wear suits to work (NYC/Chicago), full 3-piece suits are rare and considered to be Boardwalk Empire cosplay.

I do sometimes wear a sweater vest with a suit in very, very cold weather. I'm talking low teens or single digits Fahrenheit, below zero with the "real feel." Nasty cold. I always leave the bottom button undone on any button-up sweater, including cardigans. Buttoning the jacket over it is a simple matter of additional warmth, without much regard for fashion conventions.

I have too read that buttoning a jacket over a waistcoat or vest is a faux pas. Whether it's a convention that differs by country, I can't say. Wearing a waistcoat isn't a convention that's followed in the US to begin with.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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Boardwalk Empire cosplay is a loud plaid suit with the DB jacket open.* :D You know, so that you have full range of motion during the life-and-death wrestling match you're in with some sweaty World War 1 veteran turned mob hitman, which always seems to end with one guy gaining the upper hand, twisting the barrel of the gun they're fighting over into the other guy's face, and then pulling the trigger point blank without batting an eye. Seriously, has anyone ever tallied how many mooks bought it that way on that show? I got into that show for the clothes and stayed for the compelling storyline, but the horrific violence made Game of Thrones look downright tame.

Jokes aside, of course you need to button it up when standing, as the jacket loses its shape if worn open. My tailor actually adds an extra half inch or so to jackets that are part of a 3-piece, specifically so that it can be buttoned comfortably over the waistcoat.

You'll know if the jacket is meant to be buttoned all the way, because it won't have weird pull marks over the front quarters when buttoned. See for example those "paddock jackets" that were popular in the....1920s and 1930s?? There are some pics of various Kennedy and Windsor types wearing them.

*I jest but for an early bespoke commission I specifically got this, and wear it a lot.....but only as casual separates...and only outside of work....and only when I know everyone will be drunk...🤦‍♂️
 

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