Three Bespoke DBs, Three Different Countries

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

1. Extended the shoulders.
2. Lowered the buttoning point.
3. Decreased the spacing between buttons.
4. Lowered the gorge.
5. Widened the lapels.
6. Shortened the length.
7. Slimmed the trousers.

Looks a little top-heavy, and the new length might not cover the seat.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Suit C's by Iris Tailor, Singapore. I was inspired by this thread. http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=90990

Suit A is by my ancient Shanghainese guy.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Needs a shorter jacket, right?

I think so--but by just a little.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by ~ B ~

Looks a little top-heavy, and the new length might not cover the seat.

I think that, as is, you look too egg shaped. Everything is shaped and proportioned to emphasize your mid-section, which I assume is the opposite of what you want.

The length is the smallest problem. The main things are that your shoulders are too narrow relative to your waist (also causing your arms to bulge out at an extreme curve), and that your buttoning point is too high, which makes you look more horizontal. Combined with the full-cut trousers, you lose all form.

 

[Pezzaturra]

IMHO, You look better in single breasted jackets : 2-button, single breasted jacket with flared skirt and pinched waist . I think you would look the best in traditional British cut.
IMHO you should avoid carrying anything in your pant’s pockets, your wallet shows on pictures as an unsightly bulge.
As someone have mentioned already : spread collars are no no.
My 2 cents.

 

[voxsartoria]

Maybe it is time for a fourth country.


- B

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Maybe it is time for a fourth country.


- B

You don't approve of the foofed version, either? Sigh. I'm losing my touch.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

You don't approve of the foofed version, either? Sigh. I'm losing my touch.

I neither approve nor disapprove of either the originals or the foofed.

I simply suggest a fourth country.


- B

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Maybe it is time for a fourth country.


- B

Any suggestions?

I'm thinking Rubinacci.

Mariano's a top chap.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by ~ B ~

Any suggestions?

I'm thinking Rubinacci.

Mariano's a top chap.

I have no suggestions, but Rubinacci would be a fun choice.


- B

 

[mccvi]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Needs a shorter jacket, right?

Agree with you on this....

Well done, foo.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I have no suggestions, but Rubinacci would be a fun choice.


- B

Would that be essentially similar, barring Neapolitain construction eccentricities, to the A&S Suit B?

Perhaps a Huntsman or Richard Anderson in a one-button SB with DB waistcoat might do the trick.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I think so--but by just a little.
Making his look more like yours is not necessarily a good choice.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by ~ B ~

Would that be essentially similar, barring Neapolitain construction eccentricities, to the A&S Suit B? Perhaps a Huntsman or Richard Anderson in a one-button SB with DB waistcoat might do the trick.
Huntsman or RA- stick with a DB.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by ~ B ~

Would that be essentially similar, barring Neapolitain construction eccentricities, to the A&S Suit B?

I don't think so. Rubinacci and A&S aren't all that similar. As far as I can tell, the chief commonality is that they make soft jackets. On the few people I've seen who have jackets from both, the A&S jackets are inevitably built out wider in the shoulders, greatly increasing the drape between the chest and arms. I have a hard time imagining an A&S jacket without a lot of drape there. On the other hand, Rubinacci jackets often have little to no drape--based on my personal experience, it does not appear that they view it as absolutely essential to their house style.

Originally Posted by yachtie

Making his look more like yours is not necessarily a good choice.

Neither is making it look more like yours.