Thoughts on my new fabric?

[chorse123]

I just bought a few fabrics on eBay, which I hope to have made into some garments here in New York (LNC or Mr. Ned), or abroad based on things I already own. What do you think?

97% super 120s worsted wool, 3% cashmere. Grey/pink. 4.8 yards. 10.3 oz.
Three piece? Single breasted jacket, vest with lapels?

80% worsted wool, 20% silk. Beige/black/blue. 5.4 yards. 9 oz.
Probably for a 2 piece, single breasted suit. Maybe with extra trousers, since I've got the material.

80% lambswool, 20% cashmere tweed. Navy/rust. 2.7 yards. 14 oz.
I hope this is enough for a single breasted jacket. Windowpanes are 5 cm x 6 cm.

 

[Teacher]

Very nice. I like them all, but the final windowpane is my favorite.

 

[denning]

I really like the first one. But then again I have a mid gray pinstripe whose stripes are a lavender colour. May I ask how much you paid for each of the pieces of cloth? I've been interested in purchasing some cloth for myself but I have no idea what the pricing is like.

Cheers

 

[Matt]

yup, love that windowpane. I pointed Jose in its direction in another thread, so glad to see it landed in forum hands.

how does it feel?

 

[whoopee]

So you're the one who bought the long length of the grey with pink windowpane. I was watching it closely. But I settled on a navy with blue stripes 16 oz mohair/wool blend. Shoudl be killer.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Good finds.

I think the second one will look better as a sportscoat than as a full suit.

Any idea where these are from? Mills, etc?

 

[chorse123]

Denning, sent you a pm.

I haven't had a chance to get my hands on them yet, but am very much looking forward to it.

No clue as to the mill. The seller says they are from West Yorkshire.

whoppee, those mohair blends looked amazing. But these are for (obviously) more casual suits. As much as I'd like to wear the stripes, I just don't have a need for them. Who are you going to use?

Interesting thought on just a jacket for the second. May have to think about that.

 

[Beckwith]

I was close to buying the windowpane and turning that into a sport coat, but could not settle on a tailor. Keep us posted on who you choose as a tailor.

 

[Matt]

edit - answered on PM and deleted.

 

[whoopee]

The first should work really well in a three piece. A DB waistcoat would be especially nice as the pattern wouldn't be broken up by a line of buttons down the middle.

Some of the pricier fabrics are made for Holland & Sherry. I suspect some of the high supers are Charles Clayton.

I am going to try out A Man and/or Y William Yu soon. If they do a good job, then probably them. But possibly Centofanti or an NYC tailor. I want to do the fabric right; 16 oz mohair blends are just that rare.

 

[Beckwith]

Is there a price range you have been quoted for a sport coat with all the fixins? What if any is the usual discount for providing your own fabric?

 

[chorse123]

Originally Posted by Beckwith

Is there a price range you have been quoted for a sport coat with all the fixins? What if any is the usual discount for providing your own fabric?

I think LNC would be about $350 for a sportcoat, CMT. Edmorel said they charge $500 for a two piece suit, CMT. Even with material costs, I think that's a fantastic deal. Not sure about Ned, but think that's probably around $500 for just a jacket. I'll probably check out both when the fabric arrives.

 

[whoopee]

Beckwith, are you asking me?

Tailors who accept COM (customer's own material) offer lesser prices, generally 20-25% off. Consider though that they may refuse the cloth if it isn't up to snuff, which happens often when one tries to save on costs by buying alone. Most fabric stores operate on really high margins and price fabrics well higher than what tailors can get them for. Some jobbers have quality stuff for truly low prices, eg Howard, Tip Top. But even they have some crap that few decent Western tailors would accept.

 

[dah328]

Originally Posted by chorse123

I think LNC would be about $350 for a sportcoat, CMT.
Who's this LNC? I don't recall any prior mention of them.

dan

 

[whoopee]

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=13813