Thoughts on my first Italian suit?

[Cayne-Abel]

I went out and did what I swore I wouldn't do until I made $150K+ a year: I bought my first Italian suit. It's a Cornelliani from Century 21 in NYC. $649 plus tax.

Hard to tell from the pics maybe, but it's navy (btw, what do you call those stripes? Pin?) It's a size 38. The pants are far too tight and need to be opened up about an inch. The jacket, as far as I can tell, fits great, but any feedback is appreciated.

 

[acecow]

Jacket seems too big. How do the shoulders fit?

 

[antirabbit]

return.

 

[SuitMyself]

Originally Posted by Cayne-Abel

I went out and did what I swore I wouldn't do until I made $150K+ a year: I bought my first Italian suit. It's a Cornelliani from Century 21 in NYC. $649 plus tax.


I've heard of Corneliani but not Cornelliani.

Does the label say "MADE IN ITALY" or does it say "MADE IN ITALY BY ITALIANS WHO LIVE IN ITALY AND WHO SPEAK ITALIAN AND WHO EAT ITALIAN FOODS AND DRINK ITALIAN WINE AND NOT MADE BY CHINESE IMMIGRANTS, BE THEY LEGAL OR ILLEGAL, WHO MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE LEARNED THE SARTORIAL ARTS IN AN ITALIAN DESIGN SCHOOL UNDER THE MASTER TUTELAGE OF ITALIAN MASTER TAILORS WHO WERE BORN IN ITALY, LIVE IN ITALY AND WHO SPEAK ITALIAN AND WHO EAT ITALIAN FOODS AND DRINK ITALIAN WINE"?

 

[Butter]

Originally Posted by antirabbit

return.

+1

 

[geoffmartin17]

Chest seems fine but shoulders seem large

 

[OttoSkadelig]

actually, looks like a serviceable fit. but please take pictures that are not at an angle as it is impossible to really tell otherwise.

 

[Cayne-Abel]

Originally Posted by acecow

Jacket seems too big. How do the shoulders fit?

They seem to fit pretty snug. I'm surprised that y'all seem to think the fit isn't that great. But maybe my novice eyes aren't seeing something. Can someone point to something specific in the photos that indicates a bad fit?

I took it to the tailor today. He said the shoulders are good. He also said the sleeves are good (which I was kinda surprised by - I thought they could be another 1/2 - 3/4 inch shorter).

However, he did say that the jacket's waist could be taken in just a bit, although he warned that it would cause more lines by the front of the jacket when buttoned.

 

[Twotone]

Find a better fit. This one needs too much tailoring.

Twotone

 

[patrickBOOTH]

It is definitely better than the other two suits that you posted not too long ago that were about 4 sizes too big and long for you, but it does seem big in the shoulders and chest; the back just looks like it falls striaight down to the hem... Probably needs to be taken in at the sides from the bakc panels if you kept it. Also, the sleeves a bit shorter.

 

[Cayne-Abel]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

It is definitely better than the other two suits that you posted not too long ago that were about 4 sizes too big and long for you, but it does seem big in the shoulders and chest; the back just looks like it falls striaight down to the hem... Probably needs to be taken in at the sides from the bakc panels if you kept it. Also, the sleeves a bit shorter.

I believe the jacket was unbuttoned for the back photo.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Yes, but there is too much fullness in the arm and it looks like the arhole is way too low, also the wrinkling at the skye in the back shouldn't be there.

 

[acecow]

Originally Posted by Cayne-Abel

They seem to fit pretty snug. I'm surprised that y'all seem to think the fit isn't that great. But maybe my novice eyes aren't seeing something. Can someone point to something specific in the photos that indicates a bad fit?

I took it to the tailor today. He said the shoulders are good. He also said the sleeves are good (which I was kinda surprised by - I thought they could be another 1/2 - 3/4 inch shorter).

However, he did say that the jacket's waist could be taken in just a bit, although he warned that it would cause more lines by the front of the jacket when buttoned.

First of all, most tailors insist on a looser fit because they are used to the average US male wearing a garbage bag of a suit. Most tailors also advise against shorter sleeves for some reason. I guess, being a tailor does not mean having sartorial wisdom. Therefore, never listen to a tailor when he tells you how a suit should fit. Always tell him/her what you want to be done, make sure they pin it, understand it and agree that it can be done without ruining the jacket.

Secondly, the creasing in the back is horrendous. I would not step out of the house with a back like that. Overall, the jacket seems large to me. I think a size down would be much more "Italian", even if you get a little X creasing at the front button. Most Italians wear their jackets like that anyway.

Overall, this suit is not worth $700 as it would need another $200 in tailoring, and I'm doubtful it will ever be perfect.

 

[Cayne-Abel]

Originally Posted by acecow

Secondly, the creasing in the back is horrendous. I would not step out of the house with a back like that.

Overall, the jacket seems large to me. I think a size down would be much more "Italian", even if you get a little X creasing at the front button. Most Italians wear their jackets like that anyway.

Overall, this suit is not worth $700 as it would need another $200 in tailoring, and I'm doubtful it will ever be perfect.

The creasing that you see in the back is almost certainly a result of me pulling my arm slightly back at the moment the photo was taken. I was in the middle of trying to adjust myself just as my wife snapped the photo. With dinner on the stove, she didn't have the patience for a do-over. Plus, her photo-taking skills are generally horrendous. I probably should've given you guys better quality photos to judge.

With that said, I suppose that the criticism so far might be generally correct. This is my take on things:

I guess I'm subconsciously glossing over the suit's less-than-perfect fit because I've tried on quite a few suits from a fairly wide range of makers in the $400 - $900 range (Canali, Armani, YSL, Valentino, Hugo, L. Barbera, Theory, etc) and this seems to be the best-fitting one I could find. The only thing slimmer than Corneliani was YSL, but those were WAY too tight at the shoulders/armpits. And as someone else mentioned, in terms of fit, it's also light-years ahead of my first suit (a Hugo Boss red label) and a bit better than my second suit (Versace Collection), both of which I posted pics of previously in another thread (I can re-post if requested).

So what I think I'll do is wait until I get the pants back, then find a NYC tailor that someone on this forum can recommend, and get the jacket tweaked.

I don't see any better option. There is no way I can squeeze into a size 36 shoulder, and I'm not yet willing to pay the $ for bespoke suits just yet.

...it would need another $200 in tailoring...

The store that I bought the suit from (Century 21) does cheap tailoring for suits purchased there. I'm getting the pants (cuffs and waist) done for only $15. They also offered to do the jacket for a pretty low price. Should I use them? (They say their work is guaranteed.) Or do I need to go somewhere else to get this jacket done just right?

 

[Cayne-Abel]

Oh and while we're at it, can someone post/link a photo of a perfect-fitting Italian-style suit? I should probably get acquainted with what "perfect" really looks like.