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Thom Browne Interview

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Get Smart, Apr 3, 2006.

  1. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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  2. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Much appreciated. My problem with Thom Browne's label is that while he wants to bring the style to the young guys, it's young guys (me) who can't afford it. I can see dropping $1000 for a suit, and I have no problem doing so, once a year maybe, but $2500+? I wish... The young guys with the money (kalra, for example) don't deserve to wear the clothing that they can afford.
     


  3. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    no doubt Brian, I feel the same way, being an old guy (who happens to look 10 years younger) [​IMG] . And $2500 for a suit would be almost half off since the ones I've seen are $4000+. The sport jacket I tried on was $2800 [​IMG] His dress shirts are $400 and other than the fit being very nice (but nothing I can't get from Jantzen) it was remarkably underwhelming as his fabrics aren't anything awe-inspiring. But I would get a TB suit at an affordable (under $1500) pricetag without hesitation.
     


  4. whoopee

    whoopee Distinguished Member

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    Pricing similar to Dior Homme's would have made sense. The quality is comparable IME. TB's fabrics are a bit nicer.
     


  5. mack11211

    mack11211 Distinguished Member

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    Most interesting bit o' that timesuck for me was reading elsewhere on the refinery site that the new yoko devereaux brooklyn store is right around the corner from me; will investigate.
     


  6. GreyFlannelMan

    GreyFlannelMan Senior Member

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    Interesting article. Many of the pieces are cool -- I checked them out a few weeks ago at Bergdorf. And I appreciate the fact that they are produced in the U.S. But $4000 for RTW is outrageous considering you can get bespoke at that price.

    Who do you think his 80 year old client is -- Dad?
     


  7. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I'd get a TB suit... but the pants would be hemmed correctly. Also, I'd wear IRONED shirts with it, thank you.
     


  8. skalogre

    skalogre Distinguished Member

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    Prices are ridiculous at retail. Anyway, I am yet to see anything he has designed that is original and actually nice to my eyes. Plus, I am really fed up with the artistic cockiness of "I only wear my own stuff." Sounds like all these conceited musicians who claim that they do not listen to other artists' music or do not get influenced by others.
     


  9. Mike C.

    Mike C. Distinguished Member

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    Interesting article. But $4000 for RTW is outrageous considering you can get bespoke at that price.

    What does one have to do with the other? I don't see the comparison. The guy who would buy TB, wouldn't buy bespoke. Two different customers, with two different inclinations to buy.

    There seems to be a consensus on this board that there are substitutes in fashion, where a customer would forgo a buying designer garment for a lesser priced item of similar styling. For guys that buy Dior Homme, Thom Browne, Jil Sander, I'd say they would not accept substitues; they have specific tastes... afterall look at how stylized each label is. For guys that shell out this type of money at retail, they don't think like the guy who is having a toss up between getting a Zegna and a Hickey Freeman suit.

    With clothing you're usually paying an obvious premium on one of either three things:
    Construction (Oxxford)
    Fabric (Loro Piana, Cucinelli)
    Styling (Thom Browne, Dior)

    Some you pay all three... Kiton, RLPL

    Sidenote: It's crazy to see the responses to TB, love or hate. Me, it's respect. I get what he is trying to do, but realize it's not for everyone. Also, I don't think most people seem to understand the high level of quality in his suits and the great fabrics he uses.
     


  10. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    Who wears Thom Browne? A guy that is a true individual, and is unique in how he lives his life and is very confident with himself. It’s not really an age, because I have customers who are mid-20s to early-80s. It’s a guy that is youthfully spirited and doesn’t need a label to make him wear something. gotta be kidding
     


  11. aybojs

    aybojs Senior Member

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    Sidenote: It's crazy to see the responses to TB, love or hate. Me, it's respect. I get what he is trying to do, but realize it's not for everyone. Also, I don't think most people seem to understand the high level of quality in his suits and the great fabrics he uses.

    I think a lot of the beef with Browne revolves around the fact that his name has been repeatedly forcefed in recent clothing discussion. So he's got a look that departs from the norm (whether or not it's original or interesting is up for debate, I don't care enough to bother) and a heavy advertising campaign, good for him, but big deal.

    The point is that a lot of people here have seen the look, read about him in the New York Times, and made an informed and reasonably based decision that they do not like it. It just gets annoying to hear constant crowing about how "edgy" and "hip" he is, and how his penchant for shock value automatically makes him sort of artiste. My opinion on Thom Browne isn't going to change no matter how much Sartorialist Blog or whatever the latest fashion website is shills for him and tries to treat an obvious fad as some sort of clothing revolution, and it just grows tedious to keep hearing about it.

    I'm glad he's having fun doing his thing, but ultimately, his output is still overpriced, ill-fitting, and has had a limited shelf-life from birth, and he himself seems full of himself and craving attention. I'd rather worry about more classic clothing than read another article about his delusions of grandeur.
     


  12. skalogre

    skalogre Distinguished Member

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    I think a lot of the beef with Browne revolves around the fact that his name has been repeatedly forcefed in recent clothing discussion. So he's got a look that departs from the norm (whether or not it's original or interesting is up for debate, I don't care enough to bother) and a heavy advertising campaign, good for him, but big deal. The point is that a lot of people here have seen the look, read about him in the New York Times, and made an informed and reasonably based decision that they do not like it. It just gets annoying to hear constant crowing about how "edgy" and "hip" he is, and how his penchant for shock value automatically makes him sort of artiste. My opinion on Thom Browne isn't going to change no matter how much Sartorialist Blog or whatever the latest fashion website is shills for him and tries to treat an obvious fad as some sort of clothing revolution, and it just grows tedious to keep hearing about it. I'm glad he's having fun doing his thing, but ultimately, his output is still overpriced, ill-fitting, and has had a limited shelf-life from birth, and he himself seems full of himself and craving attention. I'd rather worry about more classic clothing than read another article about his delusions of grandeur.
    Hear, hear. "Edgy, hip, stylish"... bollocks I'd rather say. Such oft-repeated panegyrics only show how temporal such stuff is. I could give a rodent's rear orifice on whether he designs this stuff or not; I just wish the pretense of originality and quality to quell down.
     


  13. Uncletoad

    Uncletoad Member

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    IIt just gets annoying to hear constant crowing about how "edgy" and "hip" he is, and how his penchant for shock value automatically makes him sort of artiste. My opinion on Thom Browne isn't going to change no matter how much Sartorialist Blog or whatever the latest fashion website is shills for him and tries to treat an obvious fad as some sort of clothing revolution, and it just grows tedious to keep hearing about it.
    Agreed, well said.
     


  14. GreyFlannelMan

    GreyFlannelMan Senior Member

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    What does one have to do with the other? I don't see the comparison. The guy who would buy TB, wouldn't buy bespoke. Two different customers, with two different inclinations to buy.


    That's an overly broad statement, and a wrong one at that. If one can appreciate construction, detailing and fabrics, one can have equal appreciation for a TB suit and a Savile Row suit. They are different beasts, no doubt about.

    If I had the means, I would get both, as I have distinct tastes and styles for work versus play. Clearly, the TB suit would not have played well at the law firm. One tries not to be too different in that environment, and I would want bespoke. Just as I wear plenty of RTW garb from UK purveyors, as well as the occassional Trad.

    That said, I am still reasonably young and in shape, and TB suits are interesting (though,as others have said, I wouldn't wear the trousers hemmed in the way I've seen them hemmed) for going out on the town, social dinners and brunches. TB suits are kind of cool, just as I also enjoy my APC and ES denim, my R&B jacket, Paul Smith shirts and sweaters and other more contemporary clothes.

    Now, I suppose one could argue such divergant tastes are "wrong"....
     


  15. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    $4000 for a suit made in long Island city!
    I just did the math. The mark up is obscene.
    He doen't even have a media budget to finance.

    A friend had him make a pair of pants. He met Thom at his 14th st space.

    Later I sent him to Mr. Ned to have the pants copied. Ned himself was in and ask my friend if he wanted the new pants to fit as badly as the Thom Browne pants.


    Carl
     


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