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Tough to make a real apples to apples comparison. It will all boil down to what you prioritize: a WW Chan custom suit on your pattern will not require any alterations (assuming they have an accurate pattern) and will have more hand work on the coat. But from what I've seen, the black label Zegnas are well constructed, drape very nicely, and if you don't need a lot of alterations you can probably get a fit that is reasonably close to what WW Chan can offer.The real question is, I suppose: Â Is it worth $750? Â Because that is what I'd be paying if I purchased it. Â I've got a paper pattern over at WW Chan and I have my first suit coming from them probably in two weeks, along with a bunch of swatches. Â Isn't it likely that the Chan will be the better suit (if not objectively, then at least subjectively because it fits me perfectly)? Â I fit OTR very well, so it's not like the Zegna would be ill-fitting or anything. Â
I really don't feel like wasting the shipping and return shipping if there is a low chance I'd actually purchase this -- but it is a great deal. Â
On the "it's the regular line" score, what are the Zegna lines? Â Z, Soft, Sport, Regular, Napoli, Su Misura. Â Is that it? Â Or am I missing some?
Let's not forget Napoli Couture MTM...now that stuff is expensive (it's all 15milmil15 fabrics and better though).As I understand it, the current lines are Zegna Sport, Z Zegna, Zegna Sartorial (Most common, E. Zegna for NM, etc), Zegna Napoli Couture, and Su Mirsura (literally, Your Measure - MTM). The Soft line has been incorporated into either Sport or Z. The suit on Bluefly is almost certainly from the Sartorial line, is of full canvas construction, and in my opinion, worth every bit of $750. If I didn't 'have to have' it, I'd be looking around a bit as they can be had for closer to $600, but the sizes at the extremes are much harder to find in popular fabrics.
I could be totally wrong about the current line up, as I'm recalling this from a conversation with an employee of NM which took place some weeks ago during last call, and I was a bit preoccupied...
You obviously haven't looked at Zegna at full retail - NM and Saks start in the $1,700 for suits in the lines higher than Z Zegna, and can easily hit $3,000 for some of the finer cashmere/silk/wool blends. Granted some hits deep discount, but the better stuff rarely makes it to the lowest price unless it's in some odd color or cut.By the way, I think Bluefly's starting price of over $2000 is . . . bunk.
Zegna may have more interesting textures and patterns than VBC, but the ultimate quality might not differ that much. For example, if you compare basic solid tone worsteds from either maker, the'd probably be similar in look, drape, and longevity. But there are some patterns and textures that Zegna makes and VBC either doesn't do or doesn't do well. Hard to see the detail from the Bluefly pic, but this suit (which they call herringbone) looks like a glen plaid/Prince of Wales check used as an overcheck on top of the herringbone. I don't think I've seen something like that from VBC.See, when I compare prices I'm looking at the Zegna vs. the $730 Chan in the Super 130s Vitale Barberis fabrics. Â Does that make a difference? Â Is this Zegna fabric going to be superior?