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This zegna suit on bluefly

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Aug 9, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    And, what is the styling going to be like if anyone knows -- I'm wondering in particular whether this button stance is too high or if it is still in the "classic" category. Zegna suit Thanks in advance.
     


  2. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    Button stance looks fine to me.

    I don't know my Zegna lines very well but this doesn't appear to be from the Soft or Z lines--Z and some Soft have a seven inch drop, this is a six. Plus I think that is the black label tag on the arm.
     


  3. imageWIS

    imageWIS Stylish Dinosaur

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    That's definitely one of the better suits, from the regular Zegna line.

    Jon.
     


  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    The real question is, I suppose: Is it worth $750? Because that is what I'd be paying if I purchased it. I've got a paper pattern over at WW Chan and I have my first suit coming from them probably in two weeks, along with a bunch of swatches. Isn't it likely that the Chan will be the better suit (if not objectively, then at least subjectively because it fits me perfectly)? I fit OTR very well, so it's not like the Zegna would be ill-fitting or anything.

    I really don't feel like wasting the shipping and return shipping if there is a low chance I'd actually purchase this -- but it is a great deal.

    On the "it's the regular line" score, what are the Zegna lines? Z, Soft, Sport, Regular, Napoli, Su Misura. Is that it? Or am I missing some?
     


  5. TomW

    TomW Senior Member

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    As I understand it, the current lines are Zegna Sport, Z Zegna, Zegna Sartorial (Most common, E. Zegna for NM, etc), Zegna Napoli Couture, and Su Mirsura (literally, Your Measure - MTM). The Soft line has been incorporated into either Sport or Z. The suit on Bluefly is almost certainly from the Sartorial line, is of full canvas construction, and in my opinion, worth every bit of $750. If I didn't 'have to have' it, I'd be looking around a bit as they can be had for closer to $600, but the sizes at the extremes are much harder to find in popular fabrics.

    I could be totally wrong about the current line up, as I'm recalling this from a conversation with an employee of NM which took place some weeks ago during last call, and I was a bit preoccupied...
     


  6. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    Tough to make a real apples to apples comparison. It will all boil down to what you prioritize: a WW Chan custom suit on your pattern will not require any alterations (assuming they have an accurate pattern) and will have more hand work on the coat. But from what I've seen, the black label Zegnas are well constructed, drape very nicely, and if you don't need a lot of alterations you can probably get a fit that is reasonably close to what WW Chan can offer.

    To put things in a cost-comparison perspective, you will spend $1K and up to get WW Chan to make you a suit from any of the Zegna cloth lines. I think the last time I looked at the book (probably close to 2 years ago) the price of a suit with Zegna cloth was $1150 or so. So the real issue is how much alteration work you need/want, and whether you have a tailor that can do it to your satisfaction.

    If you can fit a six-drop suit with minimal alterations, there's no compelling reason not to buy an OTR suit you really like, especially when a comparable custom suit from WW Chan might even cost you more. In fact, if you fit OTR suits with minimal alterations, there's no real reason to favor WW Chan custom work over high end (but well-discounted) OTR, unless you like to order suits with details not readily available in OTR or MTM suits. I've continued to go with WW Chan mostly because I generally wear a 40R coat and 31 waist trousers--a six inch drop requires recutting the pants and never gets me as good a fit as custom.
     


  7. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    See, when I compare prices I'm looking at the Zegna vs. the $730 Chan in the Super 130s Vitale Barberis fabrics. Does that make a difference? Is this Zegna fabric going to be superior?
     


  8. imageWIS

    imageWIS Stylish Dinosaur

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    Let's not forget Napoli Couture MTM...now that stuff is expensive (it's all 15milmil15 fabrics and better though).

    Jon.
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Filenes basement has a lot of Corneliani suits in all sizes right now. If the suit sale is still on, the prices are $599 (and no tax, I think.) Phone them and get them sent. Very classic, slightly fitted cuts. Good luck.
     


  10. Renault78law

    Renault78law Distinguished Member

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    If you're in no rush, I'd pass on this suit.
    1) Just seems a little too pricey.  I recall that their 15mil suit was about this price at the Barney's sale last year.  I think you could find a better deal elsewhere.
    2) Stance is a tad too high.  Still classic, but a tad high. I'm not a fan of it, but reasonable minds can differ.  Also, the lapel probably isn't going to roll nice enough to wear it as a two button, imo.
    3) I can't comment on the fabric on this particular suit, but I have a suit made of Zegna fabric that is nice enough.  But like I mentioned above, I think you could find a suit with their 15mil fabric for the same price...and I know how good at finding deals you are.
    4) I'm not a fan of Zegna's cut, particularly the structure of the shoulder.  Too boxy or military-like for my tastes.  Be sure you like that shape and that it compliments your frame before buy it.
    5) I think your Chan suit will probably be subjectively and objectively better. With Zegna, you get a little bit of hand-stiching on the lapel and sleeve attachment. I think you'll get considerably more handiwork at Chan, a comparable fabric, plus a much better fit.

    Oh, and that suit looks to be from their regular Ermenegildo Zegna line. The label on the sleeve is gray.
     


  11. kabert

    kabert Distinguished Member

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    Aren't there much cheaper alternatives (perhaps even the same suit) on EBay for a few hundred dollars cheaper? Nevertheless, a Zegna suit very similar to this one (purchased at Filene's Basement for $300) was my first "good" suit -- I even got married in it. I always got tons of compliments on it - thus, other than perhaps spending a little more than you have to, I don't think you can go wrong with this one.

    By the way, I think Bluefly's starting price of over $2000 is . . . bunk.
     


  12. TomW

    TomW Senior Member

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    You obviously haven't looked at Zegna at full retail - NM and Saks start in the $1,700 for suits in the lines higher than Z Zegna, and can easily hit $3,000 for some of the finer cashmere/silk/wool blends. Granted some hits deep discount, but the better stuff rarely makes it to the lowest price unless it's in some odd color or cut.
     


  13. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    Ah. Time to recalibrate my monitor.
     


  14. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    Zegna may have more interesting textures and patterns than VBC, but the ultimate quality might not differ that much. For example, if you compare basic solid tone worsteds from either maker, the'd probably be similar in look, drape, and longevity. But there are some patterns and textures that Zegna makes and VBC either doesn't do or doesn't do well. Hard to see the detail from the Bluefly pic, but this suit (which they call herringbone) looks like a glen plaid/Prince of Wales check used as an overcheck on top of the herringbone. I don't think I've seen something like that from VBC.
     


  15. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    I passed on the suit. In the end it would be approaching $100 more for this than for the Chan (w/tailoring) in the VBC, which I thought was a great fabric. I was concerned that the shoulder description was off and also thought the button stance was a tad high. I also feel so much better about spending money when it is MTM.
     


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