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This *common* fit is terrible.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AB01, Feb 19, 2011.

  1. AB01

    AB01 Senior member

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    In my opinion, but I think you'll agree this is bad. I pulled this picture off A Continuous Lean which I just discovered from another thread. I have seen this look here before. The midsection, even though not fat, looks like it bulges out. [​IMG] http://www.acontinuouslean.com/wp-co...e_Cohen_1.jpeg When getting a suit tailored or bespoke how can one lean person avoid this? Is it simply button stance, overly pinched waist or what that causes this? Maybe it's the actual body like love handles or big hips. How to avoid and can something like this be fixed if something does fit like that? Why would anyone put up with a fit like that unless they have huge love handles?
     
  2. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Overall, this is a 2/10. The pants and jacket are, in this photo, too close in shade. The shoes (boots?) are far too rustic and the brown shade is not flattering for this outfit. Strangely, I think the jacket/vest/tie combo is the best thing about his style.
     
  3. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    There's a guy posts regularly on WAYWRN and this is his stock in trade look but when it comes to critique he is untouchable. Go figure.

    (Moo if you're reading this I apologise, this would probably qualify as a negative remark but I promise to do better in future.[​IMG] )
     
  4. AB01

    AB01 Senior member

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    Forget the colour or features. I'm talking specifically about the shape of the jacket. The midsection. Re-read my post, please.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Tomboys

    Tomboys Senior member

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    When getting a suit tailored or bespoke how can one lean person avoid this? Is it simply button stance, overly pinched waist or what that causes this? Maybe it's the actual body like love handles or big hips. How to avoid and can something like this be fixed if something does fit like that?

    It could be any of those things and/or it could be the button up sweater vest or cardigan underneath his jacket that is causing the fit issue. Hard to say unless we have a photo of him wearing the jacket sans the sweater.

    Why would anyone put up with a fit like that unless they have huge love handles?

    Given that there's snow on the ground, he may have been more concerned about function (adding the sweater to keep warm) than he was about form (the sweater making his jacket fit like it's a little "overstuffed").
     
  6. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    To my eyes, there is a wee bit too much pull at button point, however this may have been caused by the fact that the gent in the photo is wearing a cardigan underneath his jacket.
     
  7. AB01

    AB01 Senior member

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    I wish I found other pictures to show online with the same effect sans sweater. It was common in WAYWT. This is not a one-time thing. I see it a lot.
     
  8. tacobender

    tacobender Senior member

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    I am in a warm weather climate so i never have the need for anything under a suit other than a dress shirt, i can't imagine the cardigan is so thick that is causing the significant button pull. Jacket just looks to small in the mid-chest area inmo
     
  9. CYstyle

    CYstyle Senior member

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    The thing you are noticing could be from many problems, as many pointed out it could be the cardigan underneath, I think though there is just too much waist suppression causing the skirt of the jacket to flair out. His posture only makes it worse, he stands strangely, and his right shoulder has like a 2" drop
     
  10. NotDickDiver

    NotDickDiver Well-Known Member

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    In my eyes three things seems to stand out:
    1. The gorges
    2. The boots
    3. His mug. He could be anything from Portoguese to Indian. Genes gone global.
     
  11. vezatron

    vezatron Senior member

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    Lower button stance and lose the sweater and it would fit like a dream.
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^Yeah, my first thought was button stance. I do not get why the high button stance is all the rage these days, even as SF eschews the traditional three.
     
  13. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    One of my navy blazers fits this way, and I'm sure I've worn a similar combo a few times. Whether Ianiceman is referring to me, only he knows, but I'm cool with criticism, and I'm also cool with the fit.

    One thing I'm surprised that never gets mentioned is the overly contrasting buttons, which I think produces the same effect on my blue blazer here:

    [​IMG]
    (ignore the poor pant tie combo)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    A darker button wouldn't bring your eye to the drastic "x" as much as something more subtle would.

    I don't think the guys look is awful at all though, so it may explain why I have similar ones. I think the criticism is overly picky, and somewhat a matter of taste. Some like a more pinched waist, some like more "drape". Its also a matter of photography, if you change the angle even slightly, it can look entirely different.
     
  14. ktrp

    ktrp Senior member

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    The picture in the OPs post makes the man looked pear shaped, which is not very desireable.

    NYR, I don't believe yours suffer from this, partially because the pinching is less pronounced, partially because the lower part of the jacket isn't puffing out from the waist nearly as much (if at all, depends on the pic) and partially because your shoulders/hip ratio is a lot better.
     
  15. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    Also not mentioned, the jacket length, looks short, which also adds to the pear shapedness. This would be even more exaggerated of the pants contrasted more.
     
  16. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos Senior member

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    The buttoning point is too high, and the waist a bit too pinched. Were the jacket to pinch around, or closer to, his actual waist, we wouldn't be seeing this problem. It's pinching around his upper torso, which is presumably slimmer than his waist, and is creating the undesirable effect we see here.
     
  17. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos Senior member

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    Also not mentioned, the jacket length, looks short, which also adds to the pear shapedness. This would be even more exaggerated of the pants contrasted more.
    Respectfully disagree here. A longer jacket would only make his problem worse, as even more material beneath a too-high buttoning point would be flaring out. If you lowered the button stance and kept the same length, the fit would be pretty darned good. The jacket does look a tiny bit short on him, but given his strange posture in this photo, it's a little hard to tell. The jacket sleeves also look a tiny bit too short, as do the shirt sleeves.
     
  18. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He is carrying his weight on his right foot which tilts his pelvis upward on that side. This causes a curve in the spine which makes the right shoulder drop and left one lift. It is impossible to judge the fit of a garment unless the person is standing in neutral spine (weight carried evenly on both feet, and evenly spaced). "Critique my fit" posters take note, please.
     
  19. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    One of my navy blazers fits this way, and I'm sure I've worn a similar combo a few times. .

    I don't think your photos are at all the same.

    The OP pictures seem like the jacket is too small below the shoulders. Combined with the high button point it ends up looking like a woman's empire line dress. Problem is most guys aren't trying to draw attention to their boobs.
     
  20. jambo

    jambo Member

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    I actually think that fit is nice, and probably more appropriate to a man of 30+ than the the shrunken, body-hugging jackets you see a lot of on here.

    He doesn't look pear-shaped at all. There is shape and drape to the jacket. Other aspects of his ensemble might not be for everyone, but I think this jacket is a great fit. It is probably much closer to that timeless, classic fit than what everyone goes for on here when they say they want a "slim suit."
     

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