I applied the pinch test to several suits that I definitely knew were fused (think Macy's) by pulling the front of the jacket and the lining apart in the chest of the jacket. I felt a third layer in the middle that felt thicker than both the front fabric and the lining and was a bit spongy. I was under the impression that a third layer meant that there was canvassing in the chest. Am I applying the test incorrectly? Thanks!