Third Annual Collection of Sartorial Excellence

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Alexander Kabbaz, Feb 11, 2007.

  1. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    This is the second in an ongoing series of features and slide shows about the Collection of Sartorial Excellence artisans.

    SEAWARD & STEARN, Tiemakers
    The English Silk Tie

    It was in early 2002 when Gary Seaward and Mark Stearn joined forces to create Seaward & Stearn, "The English Silk Tie". Two young gentlemen who come from an extensive background in neckwear.

    Mark, who comes from a third generation tie making family, spent weekends and evenings as a child making ties with his father. In 1987 he joined Charles Hill Silks, where his design skills and abilities really came to light. Soon after, this company was purchased by Turnbull and Asser and Mark was appointed to the position of Managing Director, the youngest person ever to be appointed to the board of Turnbull and Asser.

    Gary joined the industry at the young age of sixteen when he went to work for John Comfort in the dispatch and production department. In 2000 Gary joined Jermyn Street Ties, a division of Turnbull and Asser, where he produced the Jermyn Street Collection, a brand for the world wide market. It was here that Mark and Gary envisioned their own brand; one that is recognized for quality, style, and setting new directions.

    To create a top quality tie, one needs to begin with the best ingredients. Seaward and Stearn jacquard silks come from one of only two remaining silk weavers in the world who actually weave 100% pure silk fabric. The extensive silk collection is still made in the English Peak District, an area known and recognized for its heritage in weaving, dyeing and printing of fine English silk that dates back to the 1700's.

    A few of the thousands of available silks are shown in this slide show. Also to be seen here is one of the small, old English looms used to weave the wonderfully colored Seaward & Stearn silks.

    [​IMG]

    Adhering to traditional methods of tiemaking by hand and using only the finest fabrics, Seaward & Stearn remain one of the very few English tie-making companies designing and colouring its own style of fabric. Gary and Mark offer a wide variety of designs within their collections. Elegant micro neats, open spaced motifs, super reppe stripes and larger flamboyant geometric designs, a signature of the Seaward & Stearn collection. Owning a Seaward & Stearn tie is akin to owning a fine piece of art. It was coloured by an artist and made by hand. Hand made ties designed, coloured, and manufactured exclusively in London, England.
    Each tie is made with a dual lining of cotton and wool to retain shape and insure recovery for a beautiful long lasting tie. The thread count in almost all Seaward & Stearn woven jacquard ties is 350 ends. This provides a rich and elegant finish to the fabric which is the trademark of quality for which Seaward & Stearn is known. Mark and Gary also pride themselves on their use of the Seven Fold production method. A single piece of silk folded seven times before it is sewn, this uniquely traditional method of tie making dates back to the 1920's.

    Tiemaker Gary Seaward will be in-residence at the Collection of Sartorial Excellence offering not only a selection of ties from the current season, but something quite special as well. On hand in Gary's kit bag will be the thousands of next season's carded swatches for which the silk is now being woven. Sartorial Excellence guests exclusively will be able to order these Fall 2007 season ties for delivery in September before they become available to the general public. In addition to neckties, Seaward and Stern will also be showing their collection of hand-rolled pocket squares, their innovative bow ties, and their new range of gentlemen's scarves.

    Copyright Â[​IMG] 2006 Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly. All rights reserved.​
     


  2. ltontheqt

    ltontheqt Senior member

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    Alex,
    Those ties alone have me counting my pennies -- if you will allow the riff-raff in.
     


  3. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    Having attended the last two year's events, I heartily recommend the event. For those of us who are interested in matters sartorial it is really a unique event. As Alex more aptly explained, it is more than the sum of its parts - trunk show, education forum. social event.

    As to the concern regarding how attendees are dressed, the photo array is a bity misleading. Many of the participants both times I attended were dressed in suits and ties. Many were in sportscoats and ties. I was actually among the less formally dressed in a pair of odd trousers, a sports coat, and a sweater.

    NOTE: One of the highlights for me is the opportunity to see so much high-end clothing in use. In other words, to see folk wearing great shoes, top notch jackets and suits, fine shirting, and wonderful ties is a real treat. It is basically the "what are you wearng now" thread brought to life.
     


  4. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    This is the third in an ongoing series of features and slide shows about the Collection of Sartorial Excellence artisans.

    GAZIANO & GIRLING
    Fine Made-to-Order & Bespoke Shoemaker


    Already widely known for bringing a touch of the modern and avant garde while rigorously maintaining quality standards easily on par with Lobb, Cleverly, and the like, Gaziano & Girling is the up-and-coming artisanal shoemaker. While twisting the penny straps on softly-rounded square toe loafers and cuttng diamond-shaped perforations on classic oxfords and monk straps, gaziano and Girling disagree with the "irregularities are a mark of a handmade product" philosophy. "We prefer precision", says Gaziano simply. And their work shows it. The sleek and elegant designs remind of the French; the sturdiness and durability distinctly English.

    Dean Girling is a master at the creation of fine bespoke shoes. Capable of 'making' the shoe, one of the hardest and most time-consuming segments of creating fine shoes, Girling has long been regarded among the elite of fine handmade shoe craftsmen. He is regarded by his peers as an artist of exceptional skill, one without whom the age-old methods and standards of traditional shoemaking might otherwise be forever lost.

    [​IMG]

    Tony Gaziano is familiar to many of you as the "face" of Edward Green's bespoke shoemaking operation for several years and before that as a lastmaker and traveling representative for GJ Cleverley. Leaving Edward Green to go out on his own with partner Dean Girling last year, Tony is a gifted lastmaker as well as a conduit between the wishes of the G&G clientele and the design of the shoes they wear.

    Much has been written on the forum about the wonderful art of Dean Girling and Tony Gaziano so I shan't dwell further on it here. Suffice it to say that the Collection of Sartorial Excellence is pleased to have Dean Girling as our shoemaker-in-residence for the entire event.


    Copyright Â[​IMG] 2006 Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly. All rights reserved.​
     


  5. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    Great news! CSE will be worth attending just to see the G&Gs "in the flesh."
     


  6. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm starting to think I need to plan a trip to NYC for that weekend.
     


  7. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    I'm starting to think I need to plan a trip to NYC for that weekend.
    We're only going to have hats, shirts, suits, shoes, socks, scarves, pocket squares, jackets, neckties, bow ties, belts, eyeglasses, underwear, polo shirts, pajamas, dressing gowns, nighties, trousers, intimates, warmups, cuff links ... and most available for women as well as men. You're going to fly in just for that?
     


  8. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    This is the fourth in an ongoing series of features and slide shows about the Collection of Sartorial Excellence artisans.

    Nader Zadi's CUSTOMEYES
    Fine Bespoke Eyewear


    Eyewear Artist Nader Zadi (Nah-dere Zah-dee) offers the most unique custom eyewear service in the world at his bespoke eyewear atelier. CustomEyes, as Zadi's studio is known, showcases a rare collection of antique white and yellow gold frames, as much as 200 years old, which are fashioned into modern eyewear of unique designs with hand ground prescription or tinted lenses of unsurpassed quality. Using time-honored traditional techniques of craftsmanship, Zadi founded CustomEyes more than a decade ago. Always an admirer of quality and rarity and an eyewear collector himself, Nader conceived CustomEyes after his frustration grew over the use of technology and mass production that had abandoned craftsmanship for a robotic approach to eyeglass manufacturing.

    Mr. Zadi built up a formidable collection of rare frames by searching the world in shows, old eyewear establishments, and private 'sources'. He then set about to create a special business for eyewear fanatics like himself who wanted a return to quality, uniqueness, and individuality. Largely self-taught, he set about designing incomparable modern restatements using the finely crafted antique frames he had acquired. Going further, Nader Zadi ground his own lenses in unique shapes and modern designs to the redesigned frames. His tinted lenses are in brilliant, special colors that even he cannot exactly reduplicate a second time.

    [​IMG]

    The frame collections at CustomEyes are truly special. Some are as much as 200 years old, and all are 10, 12, or 14kgf yellow or white gold. The workmanship, perfectly preserved, is magnificent. Nader Zadi preserves the beauty of these vintage frames while still being able to translate them into modern designs for today's fashion.

    Until last year, CustomEyes clientele has been a specialized group of collector-connoisseurs. Among them have been artists, writers, top business executives, and show business personalities. Now, in continuing with the artisans of The Collection of Sartorial Excellence, Nader Zadi makes available his fine craftsmanship outside that small circle to the exclusive members of our Forum.

    About Nader

    Nader Zadi is a young artist who has traveled here from halfway around the world, taking a long journey that has seen him at various times in London, Tel Aviv, and Los Angeles before setting up shop in New York. Harboring a passion for detail and craftsmanship, and being a collector of fine eyewear himself, Mr. Zadi set about using old-world implements to meticulously create masterpieces showcased in his collection.

    Nader Zadi, B.A., ABOC, is also an Optician certified by the American Board of Opticianry. He commits himself to the highest level of service, quality, and workmanship, to reflect both his taste and that of his clients.

    He has but one ideal - to make the finest frames the world has ever known. He does this with strict adherence to distinctive design, flawless beauty and optical precision - starting with the rare antique frames he has acquired as his inspiration.

    Copyright Â[​IMG] 2006 Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly. All rights reserved.​
     


  9. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    This is the fifth in an ongoing series of features and slide shows about the Collection of Sartorial Excellence artisans.

    JON GREEN NEW YORK
    Fine Custom Clothiers


    The Early Years
    Jon Green began his men's clothing career at age 14 working as a stock boy in a long gone, very fine store in Ft. Worth, Texas, Jack Caudle. Mr. Caudle was a master at presenting and selling fine men's wear and extremely knowledgeable regarding hand tailoring and fitting. Caudle provided his clientele with RTW, MTM, and bespoke Bench clothing made by his own in-house master tailor. This tailor, and Caudle, took it upon themselves to teach their young protÃ[​IMG][​IMG] as much as he could absorb about how a paper pattern is drafted, how a fine suit is constructed, and how to make it fit properly. So effective at teaching Jon were Caudle and his staff that, after 5 years with them, Green was more knowledgeable on the subject of bespoke clothing than all those he would later work with ... or for.

    A move to Houston took Jon to work at William Richard, the finest men's store in that city. Partners William and Richard opened their store after years of training at the hands of the legendary Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus fame. During his 10 years at William Richard, Jon's work encompassed running the tailor shop, hiring tailors, serving as head fitter and MTM specialist, as well as buying, sales and store management, and director of display.

    An Outsider's View
    "A client asked me recently why I recommend Jon Green to the uper crust of my clients in contrast to the other top-quality tailors who are more hands-on", commented Alexander S. Kabbaz, the bespoke shirtmaker. "It's actually quite simple", he said, "There exists a major difference in outlook. I know a half-dozen tailors in the City who can make you a top-of-the-line suit. The question isn't, 'can they fit you'. The more important question is, 'Do they know what you need to fit in? Do they know your world?' I've known Jon Green for more than fifteen years. In addition to his decades of bespoke clothing experience, Jon is a Julliard alumnus. An accomplished pianist. An opera buff. An avid golfer. The answer is simply this: He knows his clients' world. No amount of experience at hand-padding a canvas can teach that. And when I turn my client over to Jon, I can also turn my back and know they are in the most competant hands."

    Jon Green New York ... 2007
    Those 15 years of apprenticeship plus his fifteen years as the proprietor of Jon Green New York uniquely qualify Green as a master at creating clothing for the most discerning men and woman. When asked what he does differently than most upper-eschelon tailors, Jon enthusiastically explains in great detail, "Thirty years of dressing affluent, successful clients have taught me that even though I am not a tailor, there are added benefits which I offer to clients who want to be well dressed in bespoke clothing. Styles evolve and subtly but inexorably come to affect our tastes in clothing. Tailors may not have the time, or perhaps the interest, to be out in the retail marketplace or traveling to Europe to keep abreast of new developments and trends.

    "Technical expertise, taste, and knowledge of style are necessary when creating clothing which expresses the wearer effortlessly. Allowing the client to come through - while still adhering to the traditions of classic tailoring - is paramount to me. The Jon Green client wears his clothing ... rather than his clothing announcing itself. Balancing the construction and the individual expression of clothing is an art; clients and I achieve this balance together.

    [​IMG]

    "What the Jon Green New York client wears is chosen not to make an impression on others, but to personally express and please that client. My clients want to fill a daily need conveniently and privately, from the selection through the tailoring, at the highest possible level of quality. Having many interests and experience outside the clothing arena, I know what will work in my clients' world and what will not. It is my responsibility to insure not solely that the suit properly fits their body, but that they are ultimately happy with their choices. "The Jon Green suit is not clothing my clients aspire to, but clothing that fits into their lives and immediately feels as if it belongs. A need is superbly met. One loyal client put it this way: 'Tailors want to make a good fitting suit, but with Jon I know that suit will fit my needs as well as it fits my body.'"

    Copyright Â[​IMG] 2007 Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly. All rights reserved.​
     


  10. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    If you requested an invitation to the Third Annual Collection of Sartorial Excellence more than three days ago, it was e-mailed to you about an hour ago. BE SURE TO R.S.V.P.! If you didn't request your invitation until after midday on the 18th, we'll get yours out late tomorrow.

    Thanks for all the help selecting the Sartorial Excellence Dinner Gathering menu. If you are planning to attend the dinner which is being held Friday night at Smith & Wollensky's Park Avenue Cafe, make sure you complete the reservation and payment process as part of your R.S.V.P. ... and do so before Sunday. There is no other way to make a dinner reservation. The dinner guest list will be finalized early next week and no more reservations will be accepted. If you make an error, just PM me and I'll send you the direct link to the dinner reservation page.
     


  11. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    This is the sixth in an ongoing series of features and slide shows about the Collection of Sartorial Excellence artisans.

    KELLY CHRISTY
    Milliner/Hatmaker


    Kelly Christy is a milliner/hatmaker based in New York City. Kelly's many passions in life are apparent in her hat designs. A love of nature and a whimsical sense of humor clearly figure prominently in her work. This personal creative force, coupled with 20 years of working directly with her clientele and getting a true sense of what her customer wants have made Kelly Christy one of the most prominent and sought after milliners working in New York today.

    With each season comes a newly inspired collection. Every hat is named to reflect a mood or a character; Stuart, Frankie and The Belmont for men; Robin Hood and Frenchie for the distaff are just a few examples. Styles range from formal bowlers & top hats to traditional men's; from women's everyday to evening and bridal creations.

    In addition to her own creations, Kelly often provides the inspiration and direction for many of fashion's top designers. In the fall of 2001, Kelly started her design relationship with designer Isaac Mizrahi. Kelly's first collaboration with Issac was on the hit Broadway production The Women, successfully re-creating the frivolity and fun of 1930's cocktail hats. In 2004, she created hats for his High/Low show and once again for Isaac's Target Fashion Show in 2005. In 2002, Kelly's hats appeared on the runway for English designer Keenan Duffy's Fall/Winter fashion show. Kelly has also worked with Diane Von Furstenberg numerous times, first designing hats for her 2003 Spring and Fall shows, and then for her Spring 2005 show.

    [​IMG]

    From April 2003 to June 2004, Kelly's Miniature Landscapes series appeared in the National Design Triennial :Inside Design Now at The Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum along with other prominent designers in the fields such as fashion, set design and architecture.

    Equally comfortable working with Ecuadorian straw as with traditional European fur felt, Kelly's creations are most prized for that bit of dash, that touch of elan, that she brings to that most traditional of menswear, the hat. As with socks, ties, and pocket squares, that 'topper' is one of those areas where men can successfully entertain a tasteful dose of whimsy.

    Copyright Â[​IMG] 2006 Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly. All rights reserved.​
     


  12. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    sounds like quite the lineup Alex. Im thinking of pulling together my own event...the fat shirtless guy that makes my shirts, the streetside jeans shortening guy that made me boxer shorts in Hanoi, Ill have a section on grooming led by two handjob girls from a salon and the woman who will give you a manicure cheaper than the price of buying nailclippers, Ill get the awnings dude that made me a suit bag, Mr Dung can come in and talk about the importance of cross cultural branding (cos lord knows his brandname translates well) and, as a special encore, the shoeless mechanic that restored my motorbike. [​IMG] Best wishes with the 2007 show and look forward to the pics.
     


  13. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    sounds like quite the lineup Alex.

    Im thinking of pulling together my own event...the fat shirtless guy that makes my shirts, the streetside jeans shortening guy that made me boxer shorts in Hanoi, Ill have a section on grooming led by two handjob girls from a salon and the woman who will give you a manicure cheaper than the price of buying nailclippers, Ill get the awnings dude that made me a suit bag, Mr Dung can come in and talk about the importance of cross cultural branding (cos lord knows his brandname translates well) and, as a special encore, the shoeless mechanic that restored my motorbike.

    [​IMG]

    Best wishes with the 2007 show and look forward to the pics.


    Now that sounds like an event I might actually fly 12,000 miles for...[​IMG]
     


  14. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    You could probably count on LARon as well.

    [​IMG]
     


  15. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Ill have a section on grooming led by two handjob girls from a salon

    What type of grooming are we talking here?
     


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