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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dusty, Feb 8, 2005.
Um, bad advice.
Agreed. He is not looking to look *pimp*, but for a nice, basic suit for interviews and other occasions that call for one. I would with a well made but modest charcoal from a fairly conservative company with decent cuts and good workmanship - I prefer the Italians: Canali, Corneliani, even Vestimenta if that suits your body type. Others might prefer American. Hickey Freeman stands out here.
BTW, linux_pro, where did you hang out? Seriously, I'm been to clubs all over NYC and LA, and no one wears a suit, expect on special occasions, like New Years... maybe. In LA, you wear a suit out only inf you are in fact, a pimp, all Pacino, or a entertainment lawyer. At college functions, there are even fewer suit wearing occasions.
You cannot find a BASIC Isaia in a 36R for this price. I've been trying to locate a mid-top tier suit for less than 1k for the past two years, and have found NOTHING that fits reasonably well. I think your best bet would be to schedule an appointment with WW Chan, which Im planning on doing, to acquire your first "real" suit (this will be mine as well, and I'm 26).
I agree with the suggestion to look at Hickey Freeman on ebay. They can be had for a song on ebay when compared to full price retail (many times a used, good or excellent condition Hickey which would retail at $1,000 or more can be had for less than $200 or even $100). They are well made, fully canvassed, and will last a long time (my two Hickeys, which I've had for a number of years, are both going strong). Bluefly sometimes has Hickey suits as well, although I don't know if they do right now.
The styling might not be to everyone's taste, but it's a great suit for interviews or for the occasional social obligation where a suit is required.
Just my 2 cents...
I agree with most of the advice already posted (except for the 3-piece chalk stripe and the Attolini bit).
However, I would advise for a navy suit, over charcoal. In the grand scheme of things, it won't make a damn bit of difference, but I just feel like a navy suit is more versatile. It's been discussed ad naseum here and elsewhere, but in my opinion, navy dresses down a little bit better. I almost never wear charcoal to a wedding, whereas I would wear navy. Maybe it's just me.
No, a black suit. Donna Karan and Helmut Lang, not to mention Kenneth Cole, have all said that this is *the* essential suit for modern living
If you only have one suit, avoid fragile "super" fabrics, especially in navy.
First, I knew nobody would like my chalk pinstripe advice. ha ha ha ha. That's cool. My serious advice would be to pick up a Zegna if you are a 36-40, preferably in navy or black. Zegnas look great on slimmer people and you really can't go wrong with them. And a navy or black suit is perfect for interviews, funerals, nights on the town, etc. Very versatile. You can find Zegnas on ebay for around $500. I am a 38R, and I bought one Zegna on ebay and it fit me perfectly and looked custom-tailored, only the slacks needed tailoring, which is standard anyway. If you can pick one up for $300-$500, I would grab it, it is worth the money.
LA Guy, my favorite clubs in LA were Das Bunker, The Key Club, Troubadour, Glass House and Knitting Factory. I mostly frequent the punk/hardcore/thrashcore, underground hip-hop, industrial and fetish, and experimental/jazz joints. My favorite clubs in Seattle are Neumos, Graceland, Catwalk, Crocodile, the old Sit-N-Spin and the like. I couldn't tell ya if there was a dress code at the yuppie/burb-herd clubs, because I don't go to them - they bore me. I really don't care to watch a bunch of drunk late-30's jocks in slacks and turtlenencks get drunk and fight over some lame bimbo with her thong showing. But at the clubs I frequent, there is most definitely not any sort of dress code (except the fetish/industrial clubs, most require black). What cracks me up about your post is that you assume all clubs are the same and all styles the same. That just seems rather silly to me. Especially for someone who claims to be from LA and NY.
(Ducks for cover)
Hey arrrgh... that avatar is awesome. Who is that?
John Steed - from The Avengers. Rather dashing, what? John Steed Bio
Yes, quite dashing. I love the bowler, and have one almost identical.
HF sounds like a great option, except that it doesn't seem that they even make a 36R (going by their website, anyway). I'm guessing it's not a wise bet to try to have your tailor take a jacket down an entire size? I was looking through sartorialsolutions's stuff and came across this suit (his only 36): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW Though I like the styling a lot, it's a fairly light gray (at least I think it is Â - swatch pic seems to tell a different story, though it's probably just a camera thing) and I have no idea as to the quality of the brand (Trea of Italy). Comments?
I went to the Knitting factory a lot when it opened. Â Not quite as cool (the damn place is in a mall.) as the NYC version, but good bands. Â Saw the New Pornographers there for the first time live. Â Opened my eyes. Â Great live show.
I like punk, blah, blah, blah too (whatever you want to call them now) and hip hop, both underground and otherwise. Â Sometimes you want for some bacon wrapped dogs before last call and go to an afterhours afterwards at some of the tougher clubs when dudes start throwing gang signs. Â Sorry, I'm not down with being shot (happens, even at complete crap meat market places like Miyagis). Â Industrial I can live with. Â Fetish, um, sometimes I'm in the mood for fetish. Â Jazz clubs, frankly, bore me. Â The people seem way too into the jazz to really be into the jazz, if you get my drift.
Wouldn't know. Â Don't know the Seattle scene at all.
I was imagining you were such a dude, with all your talk about dressing for Wall Street, etc... Â I know dudes on Wall Street too, and in VCs, and none of them could tell an Attolini from a Zegna (my grandma can tell a Zegna from a Jos. A. Banks though) nor do they care. Â Nor do their clients. Â
Or if the clients really do care, maybe that shows how damn stupid some of those guys are. Â Once upon a time, I worked for a guy who lived high off the hog from VC money once upon a time. Â We all knew the idea was a crock; and if anyone with any scientific or technical acumen looked at what we (hey, I just did my job) were supposed to be doing, they would've laughed their asses off. Â Not the VC guys though. Â We got all dressed up for them once in a while (in our country bumpkin academics with an idea outfits,) made fancy powerpoint presentations, and they kept on giving us money for nothing. Â If I was wrong (about you), my bad.
True enough. Â Was referred to a fetish shop open late down the street once for that very infraction.
All decent clubs with good music, friendly folks, and the non-presence of the jocks and skanks listed above hardly ever have dress codes. Â The only acceptions are some jazz clubs, which I don't particularly like anyway, and some hip hop clubs, which sometimes have dress codes meant to keep out gangbangers. Â The other type of club I consider meat markets, not really clubs. Â And I'm actually Canadian, so watch your mouth, eh?
The suit seems like a possibility. Carlo can fill you in on the color, construction, etc. Do you have money in your budget for some nice shirts and ties? And shoes? A nice suit without the right accompaniments is just a shame.
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