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Things to know for first MTM/Bespoke Shirt?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lowndes, Jun 27, 2010.

  1. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    So I made a post a while back about visiting with Ascot Chang tomorrow. I decided to do this at the last minute and really haven't researched what to think about when getting a shirt custom made. I've made a list below of the things I've thought about. Are there any things I am leaving out that I should mention tomorrow? Obviously still going to go in with an open mind and listen to the suggestions they make. Want to be well prepared though.

    Details
    - No Front Pocket
    - No Darts
    - Spread Collar with nice "Roll"
    - One button cuff
    - High Armhole
    - Slim fit (not crazy slim, though)
    - Soft interlining
    - No fusing on collars or cuff
    - Thick MOP Buttons
    - Left cuff bigger to accommodate watch
    - tight cuffs
    - regular placket

    Shirt Color/Fabric
    - White
    - Baby Blue
    - Light Blue Gingham

    - Not sure what fabric yet. Hopefully, use the cheapest if it feels nice. And then upgrade to TM Silverline once I get the fit down.
     


  2. my_alias

    my_alias Well-Known Member

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    Also decide if you would like a placket or not [​IMG] I have plackets on 95% my shirts
     


  3. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    Also decide if you would like a placket or not [​IMG] I have plackets on 95% my shirts
    Thanks, I don't even know what that is. I'm going to search StyleForum for the pros/cons of plackets but do you mind sharing? Edit: Figured out that I do want a placket.
     


  4. dv_indian

    dv_indian Senior member

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    Don't forget removeable collar stays.
    Google for shirts with and without placket. You will figure out what it is.
     


  5. Chips

    Chips Senior member

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    For lack of a technical term, the placket is the area where the buttons lay, once the shirt is buttoned, ( where the button holes are sewn). There are at least two ways of having this area finished, you can have it there, or not. Without it, there is no visible "ribbon" of fabric that contains the button holes. The shirt has an uninterupted smooth cloth that goes all the way to the edge past the button holes. If that makes any sense.

    Modern tailors website has a very simple image of the two. It's hard to describe, but rather easy to realize once you're looking at it.

    I tend to forgo all chest pockets on my more formal shirts I have made, but I do like the placket. I'm not sure if there's a differing degree of formality between having it or not, it's just a personal preference for me to have it with a placket.
     


  6. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    For lack of a technical term, the placket is the area where the buttons lay, once the shirt is buttoned, ( where the button holes are sewn). There are at least two ways of having this area finished, you can have it there, or not. Without it, there is no visible "ribbon" of fabric that contains the button holes. The shirt has an uninterupted smooth cloth that goes all the way to the edge past the button holes. If that makes any sense.

    Modern tailors website has a very simple image of the two. It's hard to describe, but rather easy to realize once you're looking at it.

    I tend to forgo all chest pockets on my more formal shirts I have made, but I do like the placket. I'm not sure if there's a differing degree of formality between having it or not, it's just a personal preference for me to have it with a placket.


    Thanks, yeah that is the conclusion I came too as well. I like the fact that it kind of breaks the shirt up in the middle (or I think that is why I like, but I just like the look of it more than not being there).
     


  7. my_alias

    my_alias Well-Known Member

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    i never get the no placket option. Sometimes I get this one: [​IMG]
     


  8. WRAdvisor

    WRAdvisor Senior member

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    Cuff cut?

    Placket?

    Removable Stays?

    Button-Thread Color?

    Cut of the side of the shirt?

    Those are most of the questions that are overlooked by first-time bespoke buyers. Mostly everyone knows what kind of collar and fit they want.
     


  9. my_alias

    my_alias Well-Known Member

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    also, butterfly gusset?
     


  10. Freddy Vandecasteele

    Freddy Vandecasteele Senior member

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    I would recommend you let the "shirtmaker" ask you questions,
    Look at the fabric selection , look at a shirt, If you like the interaction and it is in your price range,put in an order,
    when the " shirtmaker" is finished with asking you questions,most of your requirements should be taken care of, Take your list with you and if a preference of yours as not been adressed
    just mention it.
    This should be an enjoyable interaction.

    Freddy Vandecasteele
     


  11. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    Cuff cut?

    Placket?

    Removable Stays?

    Button-Thread Color?

    Cut of the side of the shirt?

    Those are most of the questions that are overlooked by first-time bespoke buyers. Mostly everyone knows what kind of collar and fit they want.


    Thank you for this

    Can you explain what you mean by cut of the side of the shirt?
     


  12. my_alias

    my_alias Well-Known Member

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    I would recommend you let the "shirtmaker" ask you questions,
    Look at the fabric selection , look at a shirt, If you like the interaction and it is in your price range,put in an order,
    when the " shirtmaker" is finished with asking you questions,most of your requirements should be taken care of, Take your list with you and if a preference of yours as not been adressed
    just mention it.
    This should be an enjoyable interaction.

    Freddy Vandecasteele


    My recent experience in HK (janzten and lee baron) left me with a feeling at both places (especially janzten, who was an camp and arrogant pr**k) they just want you in and out with as few alterations and work as possible. Their opinions on fit were purely based on trying to not make any more alterations and their opinions on style were incredibly limited.
     


  13. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    I would recommend you let the "shirtmaker" ask you questions,
    Look at the fabric selection , look at a shirt, If you like the interaction and it is in your price range,put in an order,
    when the " shirtmaker" is finished with asking you questions,most of your requirements should be taken care of, Take your list with you and if a preference of yours as not been adressed
    just mention it.
    This should be an enjoyable interaction.

    Freddy Vandecasteele


    Yes, this is what I plan to do. I just want to have a well prepared list to turn too in case there are things we didn't discuss.
     


  14. WRAdvisor

    WRAdvisor Senior member

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    Thank you for this

    Can you explain what you mean by cut of the side of the shirt?


    Shirts can be "cut" differently depending on the tastes of the buyer. I think the three common cuts are Classic, Straight and Modern. Straight is cut the same length all away around with slide slits. The other two have gradual shape going up the hip. Check out CottonWork.com or ModernTailor.com and just design a MTM for fun and you'll be able to see all the options.
     


  15. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    Shirts can be "cut" differently depending on the tastes of the buyer. I think the three common cuts are Classic, Straight and Modern. Straight is cut the same length all away around with slide slits. The other two have gradual shape going up the hip. Check out CottonWork.com or ModernTailor.com and just design a MTM for fun and you'll be able to see all the options.

    great, thanks
     


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