Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Holdfast, Aug 15, 2013.
JAB also has good clothes brushes, tie racks, shoe racks for cheap during those sales
Well, I see they are just a little over 20-25€ per pair (the cotton ones at least), so I could definately try them out...
Also, I'm with you on watches. Would never think of getting anything above €150 - it's a purely functional accesory for me. As long as it's not fugly and it's accurate enough, I'm served.
MTM can be VERY disappointing and a painful process to get right. If it wasn't for the possibility of being able to choose fabric, styling, etc., you'd be better off trying to find OTR that fits. Imagine commissioning that beautiful fabric you found on a book, then when the garment is done the fit is absolutely off and impossible to fix. That hurts. Lately, while saving for future bespoke pieces, I'm getting OTR instead of MTM - fabric choices are limited, but at least you can see how the garment looks on you; then with some minor alterations it could be great.
Braces - plain white TM Lewin braces work for me
Pocket squares - stocked up a few years ago, £15 a piece from Duchamp; never understood the need for expensive pocket squares.
Collar stays - Hackett sell bone collar stays for £5/pair, do not see the point of expensive mop or silver stays.
As for Bresciani socks I think they are worth the cost although I get them from the Edward Green sales for about £10.
Shoe trees at the Rack in the Boston area are always 12.90 (under 10.00 on sale)
In the MtM options I've found, the availability of styles and cuts has generally been comparable or better, within the same price point, to OTR. Also, with the exception of online, the fittings and alterations necessary upon delivery are included. Around here, alterations on OTR are generally not included if a suit is below $400-$500, and until you cross over $100, they generally only include hems, waists, and sleeve length. So, of the options I've researched, more is available MtM than OtR - OtR. Though the most currently fashionable styles tend to be most available OtR.
That brings me to something else I won't pay full price for - Things that I can tell (or at least that I believe) are going to go out of fashion in less than three years! Does not matter whether it is a suit, jeans, a tie, shoes, etc., I try not to buy anything that will last 10 years, but look dated in 18 months.
Yeah, of course much more is available in MTM (specially if done through a tailor, then you will have many fabric books at your disposal) but for me it's not worth the extra cost because there is a high likeliness of fit failure and headaches. My last commission did in fact turn out worse than the previous due to factory mistakes, and that's pretty bad. I prefer to see what I buy now, and leave "that nice cloth I saw in a book" for later, when I can get it properly made by a good bespoke tailor.
You might also happen to stumble upon a $1000 RTW sportcoat with an amazing fabric that fits you like a glove - why not buy it if you can afford it? Yesterday I saw a nice tweed jacket that looked extremely flattering on me, and would only need a small adjustment for my low shoulder - it was €400, more than what I usually pay for a RTW coat, but I think it will end up in my closet. It just fits better than any MTM I've had, so why not?
Of course, if you're lucky and get a nice fit out of MTM, it's a great value. But I've seen so many disasters compared to successes...
Collar stays. not that I don't appreciate the beauty of a good gold or MOP collar stay mind you, but . . . .
on a sort of side note--steam irons. I get cheap ones to press my stuff. They get gunked up, and I have to purchase a new one every so often. Are good irons worth it?
I have been using a Tefal iron with steam generator for about about 5.5yrs, I doubt that I will go back to an iron or stream iron.
My trusty Rowenta just decided to stop heating up any more after about twenty years. I think it might have cost me about $40 which was on the high side back then, but its been worth it i suppose.
There used to places you could take items like steam irons and toasters to get thermostats replaced but in today's world everyone just tells you to dump them in a landfill and get new ones. Sad to see it go, it served me well.
I wonder if heavy non-steam irons are better for pressing jobs. I have a decent steam iron, but haven't used steam in months and it's much better. Seams don't blow (pucker) any more, trouser creases are sharper and easier to set in, and wrinkles on shirts disappear more easily. Water spray and/or sponge works great...
^^ I read jeffreyd's post on pressing too and it was game-changing. I emptied the water from my iron and used spray and sponge exclusively. It certainly seems to make a difference with seams for sure.
I don't like spending lots of money on shirts. I have my shirts laundered, and they don't treat them as well as they should. So, my shirts don't last a long time.
I get my shirts at Luxire or Charles Tyrwhitt o Jos. A Banks.
I get my footwear and daily work wear from the navy quartermaster. It costs me nothing and I never have to worry about color or style.
A good belt, when treated properly, is permanent.
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