Things that all better cothing items should not be made without.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by in stitches, Nov 8, 2011.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    i can see that, yea...now you've got me contemplating putting functioning cuffs on my one jacket so buttoned haha....
     
  2. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    handwork. I love it....im a sucker for it. May not add anything other than intrinsic value, but i love the way handstitching looks. Also, MOP buttons. usually a given, but I think if a shirt is over 150 or so, MOP buttons should be standard fare.

    canvassing for jackets. no question. with a working lapel button hole. fake lapel button holes annoy me to no end.
     
  3. Klobber

    Klobber Senior member

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    Agree on hand made garments.
    Agree on the shirts. Horn Buttons are also cool on dress shirts ;)
    Jacket canvassing is less of an issue for me - it all depends on the fabric. If the fabric is linen or cotton, particularly if deconstructed, canvassing in neither here nor there - it does not enter the equation. Very heavy duty garments do not really need to be canvassed either - I have yet to notice the difference canvass makes on heavy duty jackets.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2011
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yea the ring shank buttons flop around. but the hopper back ones stand up firmly.
    check the waterburry website.
     
  5. Pawz

    Pawz Senior member

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    Shirts should have mother-of-pearl buttons. They don't chip as readily when pressed as cheaper ones often do.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2011
  6. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Well, actually functioning buttons do not in any way indicate bespoke. Nor does having them, in my mind, indicate that one is pretending to have a bespoke garment.

    Many upper end RTW suit makers supply the jackets with the buttons not attached at all. This is so the buttons, and working button holes if you wish to have them, can be put on by the local tailor after the sleeve length has been determined. So I don't in any way think having working button holes is a way to 'simulate' a bespoke jacket. It's just a nice detail to have if you prefer it.

    For me, it's about having those hand sewn button holes. My local tailor charges $20 apiece for them - so that comes to $160 a jacket to have them put in. I often have it done as it's a minor expense and I just personally like the detail. Perhaps it's my training as an architect - but I despise things that are 'faux' such as button holes sewn on a jacket that don't actually function.
     
  7. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    I use a tailor who believes this so sincerely that he puts these on all my pants. Even the ones with side adjusters. And suspender buttons. And no belt loops.
     
  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    thank you achillies, for not using that stupid "floating" term. i wish everyone else would.
     
  9. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    personally, Ive never liked ventless coats. If ihad a tux bespoken, id ask vor a vent. right or wrong, i prefer vents. Functioning cuff buttons on RTW is kinda kitch. Its fun, i have a few coats with them, but now i could care less.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    worth repeating. +1

    yes. i even thought of that when i hatched this thread idea. i just forgot to type it. thanks


    :lol:


    you are a nerd. do you also have a pocket protector?
     
  11. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Domestic labour.
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I'll clarify my original statement - I don't think it's dumb or ostentatious to get working cuffs, but I don't think it's something that "all better clothing items should not be made without"
     
  13. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    kinda like the pot calling the kettle black eh?

    and my pens are beautiful. suck it.:nodding:
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    no, its like the cool kid telling the nerd that he is a nerd.

    im sure they are, what type of pen-is your favorite?
     
  15. Klobber

    Klobber Senior member

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    I had a fountain pen, leaked into the pocket of my shirt. I now use a quill and a small bottle of ink.
    [​IMG]
     

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