Thick as Thieves suit review

[Brian SD]

I decided to give my new suit it's own thread. Perhaps the first of its kind for the Streetwear & Denim forum. I'm going to be as objective as I can here, but it's hard to say anything negative because as far as my overall satisfaction with the garment and especially with the service (Jason offered more assistance and went out of his way to help than I could have expected of anyone), I couldn't be happier.

For info about the brand, how to cop, etc. refer to this thread in case you missed the ongoing discussion: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=27754

Overall thoughts: I really love this suit. The way the fabric drapes is really great, the fit is more on point than anything coming from the mod bandwagoning designers, the details are more than I expected, and the quality is spot-on. Most importantly, at $400, it's probably one of the best deals I've ever gotten on an article of clothing. Honest.

Fabric: I'm not an expert in the suit fabric area, so I shouldn't pretend to be an authority here, but the 9oz grey wool I chose is a great starter. It's got the slightest bit of texture to it, doesn't feel elastic like many of the fabrics in current designer lines, and most importantly, it drapes really nicely. I have owned $2000 Helmut Lang and Dior Homme suits that had lower quality, stiffer wool than this suit. I can't reference it against Borrelli, Kiton, etc. as I don't have the items to compare.

Other materials: I opted for a gold lining to throw in a bit of gaudiness to the suit. I may have underestimated the contrast a little, and in retrospect I would have gone for a simpler color, but I'm sure I'll appreciate how unique it is further down the line. The lining is soft and comfortable and sewn in very well. The buttons are real horn, which is a nice touch.

Details: Pick stitching, fully canvassed, functional sleeve and lapel hole... Really great work. Im no expert on this but I believe the pockets are hand-stitched as well. The inside of the pockets are lined to match the suit interior. A nice touch. Little details make the execution so well-done.

The MTM program gave me great luck. The sleeve and trouser length are perfect for me. I was worried either one would come out incorrectly, but against my worries, both came out exactly how I wanted!

Now to the fun part: the pictures. I included my face in these so Jovan can critique my facial structure. I went with the patented "sad & aloof" look. Remember I'm sick!

Trouser fit from behind:

Notes: tight seat! Good fit though. The rise seems about perfect for me as far as suits go.

Trouser fit from the front:

Notes: Tight as hell but NO MOOSE KNUCKLE. Great cut on the trousers. Something that is typically overlooked, IMO. These fit great.

Complete fit:

Close-up of fabric, pick-stitching and lining:

Notes: Lining is a bit brighter in person. I desaturated the photo a little too much.

Close up of pocket and ticket pocket turned upwards:

Notes: Shows the stitching (looks like it's done by hand by the unevenness of it), and the lining.

Final comments: I'm stoked I finally found an edgy suit that fits me the way I wanted it to without any alterations and at such a great price point. Where as even in some of my other suits from Jil Sander, Margiela, etc. I don't feel comfortable going out casually in them because it's too "just got off-work," I would feel totally comfortable wearing this suit in a situation where a suit is not at all required. It definitely follows along the lines of Jason's brand image: suits for dudes who don't have to wear a suit but want to anyway.

 

[skalogre]

Damn damn damn! Nice suit (and looks like a good fit, although others will be better able to judge that).
I may be a bit self-conscious of the shorter jacket (and thus higher pocket placement) but it looks good. And probably better made than a lot of the designer pish-tosh bantered around at stupid prices.

I think I need to sell off one or two of my suits to snag one of these

Closer pictures of the ticket pocket would be nice.

 

[Get Smart]

right on Brian. Gotta admit, you look pretty snazzy. Your leanness def does it justice. Glad the sleeve length worked out (and looks spot on), that's always a tricky area since .5" can mean a world of difference in the final result. *whew*

 

[lawyerdad]

Congrats to you and kudos to Jason.

 

[Brian SD]

I edited it to add a picture of the underside of hte pockets I took. That's all I have at the moment, hope that's enough for what you wanted to see.

 

[skalogre]

Thanks for the pocket pics Brian. I think that is a nice touch, having the lining on the underside of the pocket flaps.

Jason, Brian, how did you go about determining the length of the sleeves & trousers?

 

[whodini]

Now I see why GS said we look alike:

Great, great, great, great, great looking suit. I really liked the materials GS showed me but I think it's a completely different ball game when you see it put together like this. I think I'll be ordering one exactly like this if you don't mind, but what other choices are there for linings?

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by skalogre

Jason, Brian, how did you go about determining the length of the sleeves & trousers?

Trousers: best way is to get a pair of jeans and cuff them so there is no break on the shoe, then take off and measure from crotch to the bottom. Since it's "no break" the length is shorter than what you're probably used to having.

Sleeves: easiest and most accurate way (imo) is to get a suit jacket that fits reasonably well and if the sleeve length isnt to your liking (probably too long since that is what most guys wear) , cuff the sleeve a bit to where it'll show off about .5" of shirt and measure the outside-most distance (for reference I wear a 33" shirt sleeve and my suit sleeve is 24.25"). about .25" shy of the wristbone usually works out good.

 

[Brian SD]

I think I'll be ordering one exactly like this if you don't mind, but what other choices are there for linings?

That's depending on what fabric you wanted it lined with. I believe Jason said there was silk, which had a few options (probably black, white, blue), but I wasn't really concerned with having silk lining. Jason mentioned that you can get pretty much any color you want in that same fabric I chose.

Jason, Brian, how did you go about determining the length of the sleeves & trousers?

I measured the sleeve length of the best fitting jacket I had, then subtracted about a half an inch because my best fitting jacket is still about a half inch too long. I actually think I recall asking Jason what sleeve length his was, then just saying, "that's the length I want mine."

As for trousers length, it was another best-reference situation. I measured the length of my Jil Sander suit pants, which had the same break I wanted with this suit.

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by whodini

what other choices are there for linings?

any basic color you can think of is available..or you can let me surprise you

 

[skalogre]

Originally Posted by Get Smart

Trousers: best way is to get a pair of jeans and cuff them so there is no break on the shoe, then take off and measure from crotch to the bottom. Since it's "no break" the length is shorter than what you're probably used to having. Sleeves: easiest and most accurate way (imo) is to get a suit jacket that fits reasonably well and if the sleeve length isnt to your liking (probably too long since that is what most guys wear) , cuff the sleeve a bit to where it'll show off about .5" of shirt and measure the outside-most distance (for reference I wear a 33" shirt sleeve and my suit sleeve is 24.25")
Is that what you did with Brian? Glad it was so accurate

. I would be concerned having functioning buttonholes normally but if it can get within a cm max or so I could even leave it or adjust it locally... Edit: Thanks Brian, you posted while I was typing out my message.

 

[whodini]

Originally Posted by Get Smart

any basic color you can think of is available
I'm being completely serious, would there be any way to get a union jack fabric?

 

[Brian SD]

Originally Posted by skalogre

Is that what you did with Brian? Glad it was so accurate

. I would be concerned having functioning buttonholes normally but if it can get within a cm max or so I could even leave it or adjust it locally...

Edit:
Thanks Brian, you posted while I was typing out my message.

I would recommend Jason's method over mine, definitely. I was very careless about the sleeve/trouser specs. I think I just got incredibly lucky for a first-time MTM order. Especially with the sleeve measurement, saying "What do you have? Okay thats what I want"

 

[skalogre]

Originally Posted by whodini

I'm being completely serious, would there be any way to get a union jack fabric?

That would make "killer" (right use of slang?) lining though. Or maybe some nice old kimono fabric would be dashing lining, too

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by whodini

I'm being completely serious, would there be any way to get a union jack fabric?


I'll raid the Ben Sherman warehouse and see what they got

seriously tho, right now I only have solid colors....it would be cool to eventually get printed linings but I have enough on my plate for now so some details will have to wait