Thick as Thieves ONLINE

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Get Smart, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. mickeymickey

    mickeymickey Well-Known Member

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    In the middle pic, should I be able to see that thing peaking out from under the collar?

    No, the lapel just rolls weird there. I'm not too sure what that's all about.
     


  2. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    No, the lapel just rolls weird there. I'm not too sure what that's all about.

    I would have returned it for that.
     


  3. RyanLeez0r

    RyanLeez0r Active Member

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    wow i'm really anxious about getting my suit now...i hope the pants are too big or have that lapel thing at the back
     


  4. mickeymickey

    mickeymickey Well-Known Member

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    I assumed the lapel roll thing in the back was something that would be fixed with pressing the suit. Is that not the case? If so I guess I should consider returning it, which is unfortunate.
     


  5. RyanLeez0r

    RyanLeez0r Active Member

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    mickey

    did you order your pants with larger measurements? they do not seem as fitted as all the others' pants.
     


  6. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    In the middle pic, should I be able to see that thing peaking out from under the collar?
    yea that's odd...is the lapel/collar correctly put down/adjusted? There def shouldnt be any felt sticking out underneath the collar If it is and that's still going on, email me about fixing it for you.
     


  7. vvoc

    vvoc Senior member

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    if its any help, mine was like that too but settled after i adjusted a bit and wore it...im assuming it was caused by the shipping...now it sits perfectly
     


  8. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    Jason-

    which is your heaviest fabric?
     


  9. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    JC, probably either one of these

    blue-ish tweed with red overcheck

    or a dark grey mottled appearance tweed

    imageshack is down right now so i cant post scans at the mo'
     


  10. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    or a dark grey mottled appearance tweed


    this one, right?
     


  11. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    ok here ya go

    blue tweed w/red overcheck

    [​IMG]

    mottled grey

    [​IMG]
     


  12. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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  13. Mookie

    Mookie Active Member

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    So I promised pictures, and here they are.

    To start, I ordered a 1 button peak lapel in the standard black wool. I didn't deviate from the house cut much, only asking that it be cut more like the guy in the brown suit than Jason's own suits in the photos. Measurements are my own (mostly) and checked by a friend, so any weirdness on that end is my bad, not TaT.

    So here we go!

    [​IMG]

    Our hosts for this adventure. Note also the awesome teal lining, which will show up in several other photos. HEY GUYS! IT SAYS LOS ANGELES!!! THAT MEANS THESE SUITS ARE MADE IN THE UNITED STATES, RIGHT???

    [​IMG]

    The french facing, and a nice touch: the pen pocket, suitably large for cigars, for the tobacco-inclined.

    [​IMG]

    This is a pretty nifty unique feature on my suit: two buttons on the sleeves. It gives it a distinctive profile, since most these days use three or four. If I recall correctly, early Brooks Brothers suits were known for their two buttons. The buttons, of course, work. I don't know if that's a TaT style, or just for the one button suit, or what, but I like it, since it helps signal that the suit is a bit different.

    [​IMG]

    The lapel. It's somewhat hard to make out the pickstitching, but it is actually quite prominent, and gives the edges of the lapel a nice wavy look that really highlights how the suit is handsewn.

    Some photos of the pants fit. For what its worth, I think these came out better fitting than the jacket (but that's because they're simpler), which looks like it has a couple of issues that we'll get to presently:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Check out my ass.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I went for no break, and seem to have almost exactly nailed the inseam length. Also, my cat gets hair every fucking where...

    [​IMG]

    Fun fact: the trouser lining is the same as the jacket lining. That's kickass.

    Anyway, that's the pants. Let's check out the full suit, since that's what we came here for...

    [​IMG]

    The front seems to hang pretty well. Although the jacket seems to billow out toward the bottom, that's more a function of my build than anything else. As you can see in the pants photos, I have pretty significant hips following a narrower waist.

    [​IMG]

    The suit in profile. I seem to lean a bit in these photos. Or my crappy tripod does. Probably both.

    [​IMG]

    Here's where we have some problems, and where some tweaking will help the most. I'm not 100% sure what the issue is, but I think that the bottom of the armholes is sewn on somewhat funky relative to the side-seams for the slim-fitting effect. I think that raising (if possible) the bottom of the armholes an inch or two might fix this. That said, I'd love for input from people who know more about tailoring about how to fix this up. I'm also having my local custom tailor take a look at it, and will report back on what he says.

    One other issue: there were a couple of snags/runs in the material. Most of these were really small, and are basically unnoticable after I've shaved them down carefully with a razor, but be careful! They will absolutely ruin the lifespan of your suit if you pull on them incorrectly.

    [​IMG]

    Overall impressions: pretty goddamned good. Jason is awesome to work with, and has a pretty kickass and unique style. There's some tweaking to be done, but that's to be expected from mostly self-measurements. Additionally, as I caught with the snags and a couple of unphotographed lining things, there are some stitching/finishing oddities, but those are extremely minor, and are just as likely to be the result of the use I'm going to put this through as front end stuff like this time. (I'm hard on suits).

    The material, overall, is very nice, especially for the "basic" one that I chose. A word of advice, though: definitely steam the hell out of it when you get it! I found that, prior to steaming, the wool has an odd rough character to it. I'm not sure what that's from. Afterwards, it loses that feeling entirely, and feels like Super 100s should. It compares favorably to a number of my other suits in a similar price range, which don't have the benefits of (1) MTM and (2) style. Not to mention the all important (3): run by a SF member. I like supporting our own.

    Will I be ordering another TaT suit? Oh hell yes. And, at the end of the day, repeat business is the best measure of satisfaction.

    And now for the awesome "casual" pose. Note the frogmouth pockets, which I highly recommend everyone give a chance:

    [​IMG]

    NOTES:

    shirt is a 15.5"x35 slim fit Brooks Brothers
    tie is by Zegna; it isn't the super-skinny tie, but the 3" (or so) wide one
    Belt by Ferragamo
    Monkstraps are Ferragamo Rubens

    I typically wear a 44R in off the rack suits. I also have lost a shitload of weight recently (like, "150 pounds" and "10 inches off the waist, 4" off the neck" shitload), and still think of myself as "the fat guy." That makes me love the slim-fitting profile even more, I suspect.
     


  14. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

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    ^^ Congrats on losing all that weight! However, I'd hate to rain on the parade. The suit looks like you are wearing your shorter, chubbier uncle's suit.

    The pants are too short for how wide they are. Let them down 1" and get the pants slimmed. Looks like they are 0.5"-1" too wide in the cuff and about 1"-1.5" too wide in the thigh.

    The jacket needs to be reshaped on the side seams in the back. Also, the sleeves are a bit off in the pitch still. This makes them look billowy, so I would get those sleeves slimmed 1".

    The sleeves are a tad short too for those cuffs. Maybe a tighter barrel cuff would improve things, otherwise let them down .25".
     


  15. stickonatree

    stickonatree Senior member

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    gs - i don't want to seem nitpicky or be debbie downer here, but is it possible to tweak the arm pitch? it seems that all the photos i've seen in this thread have been plagued with too forward of an arm angle. not sure if this is difficult to fix when you slim a suit down too much, or if it's just a factory-adjustable thing.
     


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