Thick as Thieves ONLINE

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Get Smart, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,381
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2004
    It might be just a tad loose across the back. That would be a very minor alteration. And on the side shot it looks like there's something weird going on on your right side above the button, but it could have just gotten caught for a minute.

    For the most part I agree. I think this is a nice suit. I think the "weirdness" on the right front could be a posture problem. The photos show the poster with a drop in the right shoulder and he is standing with the right shoulder more forward than the left. This is likely causing a puffing or collecting of excess fabric on the right side. An interesting test of this theory would be for the wearer to stand and try to bring the right should up and back - my guess is that would even out the two sides.

    If I am correct, then the question is whether the posture issue is limited to this set of photos or is how the wearer normally stands/walks/etc. If the latter, additional tailoring to address the shoulder drop could be useful.
     


  2. rando

    rando Senior member

    Messages:
    178
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2007
    It might be just a tad loose across the back. That would be a very minor alteration. And on the side shot it looks like there's something weird going on on your right side above the button, but it could have just gotten caught for a minute.

    I actually think it looks really good; nothing to worry about in IMO. What changes did you make from "standard"?


    the changes from standard were non overlapping ticket pocket, 2.75 in lapels, slightly lower button placement, longer jacket length, slant pockets instead of frog mouth for trousers. i will try to get it pressed this week and put up a couple more pics.
     


  3. embowafa

    embowafa Senior member

    Messages:
    6,552
    Likes Received:
    112
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    the changes from standard were non overlapping ticket pocket, 2.75 in lapels, slightly lower button placement, longer jacket length, slant pockets instead of frog mouth for trousers. i will try to get it pressed this week and put up a couple more pics.

    dayum...you took all the fun out of the suit!

    Hey Jason, it's Marco. Is the jacket lengthening you did for this jacket similar to mine?
     


  4. cvac

    cvac Senior member

    Messages:
    433
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2007
    There's no way those shoulders are too wide. If anything, they're a touch too narrow. You can see his triceps extending out wider than the shoulders.

    Looking at the photo again, I think you're right. On first glance the shoulders look too wide because of the rippling on the upper back, but that is a different issue. The shoulders and sleeves should have been made to not cause the indentation on the right arm just below the shoulder seam.

    On the whole, the back and shoulder area looks terrible, in my opinion.
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,855
    Likes Received:
    112
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    I opted for a more conservative cut in the regular navy. I think the suit fits great overall, but appreciate comments. Under the shoulders (especially left) in the back though, it seems to look a little wierd to me cause of the fabric folding. Any ideas or is this just normal? Thanks again GS!

    side view shows the front is short. the shortness is at the top. thats why the front kicks out at the bottom.
    you have aright low shoulder. thats why the right side breaks under the arm and at the button.
    the right neck point, stands away from the neck.
     


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,855
    Likes Received:
    112
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    to mr potato:
    ok you also have a right low shoulder and right shoulder point standing off the neck. usually those two go together. the hips are too tight the right side more than the left. thats why the jacket is hung on your butt, and not sliding down. the excessive drape in the upper back is because this is a made to measure not custom made. if there were fittings this would have eliminated.
    if you are brave enough to order again send these pictures and circle these points. describe them and ask to have them corrected.
     


  7. Saucemaster

    Saucemaster Sized Down 2

    Messages:
    6,678
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Location:
    San Francisco
    The jacket looks ill fitting from the front b/c there is noticeable pulling at the button. Not good. It is probably too tight in that area. The view from the back - looking at the waist basically confirms this.

    I'm not sure how this is a "more conservative" TAT b/c the jacket length is still 2-3 inches too short probably. It looks like a Thom Browne jacket, basically. Not my thing at all.

    The sleeves look a little shorter than I would prefer. I lengthen them by 1/2".

    The shoulders and top of the back are ill fitting. I think the shoulders a too wide for you. The armholes look like they're too big.

    At least the back bottom of the jacket looks to be covering most of your backside.

    Overall the suit looks like the measurements weren't done right, or if the measurements were done right, the people who actually made the suit did not follow them correctly.

    Too bad.


    No offense, but at least half of your criticism of the suit just points out your aesthetic differences with the label, not a problem with the suit itself. Pulling is fine, some of us actually prefer a little bit of it, and the length of the jacket is pure preference; personally, that's as long as I'd want a jacket on one of my suits to be.
     


  8. phipbow

    phipbow Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2008
    You guys never do a three piece do you? I was thinking the one button peak lapel in herringbone would be great with a vest...
     


  9. Vidi

    Vidi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    50
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2007
    Location:
    Seattle
    I ordered and received this suit a couple of months ago, and am just now getting around to posting pics.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I'm not sure if it's just my posture, but I seem to have a belly that I just don't have in one of the pictures where I'm facing to the left. I just noticed it as I was preparing to upload these, and unfortunately I don't have another shot from that angle to compare against.

    Originally I felt that the suit was a little restricting, but I've acclimated to the change. My tailor thought things were pretty much spot on, and was amazed that this was done just using the measurements he took from me without any later alterations. I was hoping to give him a little more business on this suit, but he said the only thing he could improve on would be a little puckering at the rear shoulders, and that the cost wouldn't really justify the small benefit. If I remember correctly, he thought the shoulders should have been sloped a little more steeply. He had good things to say about the workmanship, and one of the ladies in his shop mentioned that she loved the fabric.

    I'm planning on ordering another TaT suit, and I'm thinking of keeping pretty much everything the same measurement-wise, except perhaps lengthening the sleeves a little. Thoughts?
     


  10. alk18

    alk18 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2008
    Man... I've started to really itch for one of these. At the same time I'm worried my measurements will be wrong so I'm sitting around with a tape measurer and a mirror on a Friday night.
     


  11. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

    Messages:
    3,819
    Likes Received:
    95
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2006
    Location:
    North GA
    I ordered and received this suit a couple of months ago, and am just now getting around to posting pics.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I'm not sure if it's just my posture, but I seem to have a belly that I just don't have in one of the pictures where I'm facing to the left. I just noticed it as I was preparing to upload these, and unfortunately I don't have another shot from that angle to compare against.

    Originally I felt that the suit was a little restricting, but I've acclimated to the change. My tailor thought things were pretty much spot on, and was amazed that this was done just using the measurements he took from me without any later alterations. I was hoping to give him a little more business on this suit, but he said the only thing he could improve on would be a little puckering at the rear shoulders, and that the cost wouldn't really justify the small benefit. If I remember correctly, he thought the shoulders should have been sloped a little more steeply. He had good things to say about the workmanship, and one of the ladies in his shop mentioned that she loved the fabric.

    I'm planning on ordering another TaT suit, and I'm thinking of keeping pretty much everything the same measurement-wise, except perhaps lengthening the sleeves a little. Thoughts?



    Button only the middle button and the belly will flatten out.
     


  12. tighty88

    tighty88 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    58
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2007
    Location:
    Old Westbury, NY
    The guys over in MC will tell you that the "rules" state that black should be reserved for evening-wear, in which case you shouldn't be wearing a suit, but rather a tuxedo. The black suit is therefore the ill-begotten bastard child of menswear and is to be despised. Anyone caught violating this rule will be bludgeoned with copies of Manton's book.

    Navy is fine though. There's never anything wrong with a plain navy suit. Saucemaster had a pretty good pic of his in the What Are You Wearing Thread about a week or two ago if you want to take a look.

    Well, in regards to the black suit, can't you at least try one in black/clover?
     


  13. EmreBFG

    EmreBFG New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2008
    Get Smart: Quick question for you.

    I was wondering if the suits that you design are suitable for my frame. I'm 6'5", 210lbs, 42 shoulders, 35 waist, 35-36 inseam, 16.5 collar, 36 arms. Not exactly super thin, but not Big & Tall neither. It seems to be quite difficult to find ready-made suits in my size so I'm hoping MTM is a better way to go. It seems most clientele on Style Forum are not my size, so do you have experience in such a "large" suit?
     


  14. Philosoph

    Philosoph Senior member

    Messages:
    1,143
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2007
    Location:
    The corners of my mind
    Well, in regards to the black suit, can't you at least try one in black/clover?

    When you say "you," are you referring to me personally, or did you mean "one"?

    If the former, then no. I have a personal prejudice against the color black.

    If the latter, there's nothing stopping you. Depends if you value the "rules" or not.
     


  15. murakhovskiy

    murakhovskiy New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2008
    Are there any alternative ways to contact TaT?

    Seems like I can't place and order via e-mail - my messages aren't delivered.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by