Thick and heavy Tweed roll call

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Jerome, Oct 15, 2009.

  1. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    This thread should be renamed "Fly paper for people who know less than nothing about fabric and tailoring to masquerade as experts".[​IMG]
    Why Buffy ... you glouriously naughty boy ... if you can find fly paper that looks like one of these windowpanes ... I'll gladly pay you double, on Tuesday.

    Of course, others have suggested that I must frequent upholstry shops.

    As for being an expert ... that's not a term I'd apply to myself. Moreover, I'm not one of the gents who aspires to the Biddle wardrobe. Elegance has never been an aspiration of mine.

    I simply buy what I love ... casual country comfort. Whereas Sebastian Horsley's mother wanted the child who among her three best matched her red velvet outfit ... I prefer to reach for the coat that best matches my beagles.
     
  2. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Numbers three and four from the left look incredibly versatile, something I'd like to have myself. Maybe next winter...
     
  3. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    That 3-piece is great. Scottish Ballantyne tweed, not sure the oz. [​IMG]
    Black tweed...with pepper tweed sauce
     
  4. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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  5. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Why Buffy ... you glouriously naughty boy ... if you can find fly paper that looks like one of these windowpanes ... I'll gladly pay you double, on Tuesday. Of course, others have suggested that I must frequent upholstry shops. As for being an expert ... that's not a term I'd apply to myself. Moreover, I'm not one of the gents who aspires to the Biddle wardrobe. Elegance has never been an aspiration of mine. I simply buy what I love ... casual country comfort. Whereas Sebastian Horsley's mother wanted the child who among here three best matched her red velvet outfit ... I prefer to reach for the coat that best matches my beagles.
    The concept of tweed is a fascinating one because you can get real tweeds which of course can be very nice or you can get softer and/or thinner fabrics that have tweed-like patterns. Some people will only wear the "real", traditional weave of heavy weight tweeds and sneer at any other interpretation. Like a flannel, most people like the look of tweed on others but want something that has the look but neither the weight nor the texture. Personally, I would rather a cashmere jacket with a tweed pattern. But that's a lifestyle choice. Someone in academia or antiques might get a a lot of credit wearing a real tweed. I have a tweed suit which I think is about 18-19 oz. Some sort of Donegal specially made for suits. Both jacket and pants are fully lined. An unlined tweed suit is like wearing wingtips without socks. Anyway, I am not unhappy with my suit but I wouldn't get another one. I believe a tweed should be well tailored and not soft or loose.
     
  6. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Guess you are not a sports fan:
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  7. I. Gentantithesis

    I. Gentantithesis Senior member

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    Original 24 oz. Seafield's Glenurquhart Estate tweed (1840) woven by Johnstons of Elgin.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. JibranK

    JibranK Senior member

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    I do tend to like tweeds -- some of them quite heavy -- and have a number of windowpanes and bold checks among my favorites.

    I don't take many pictures of my clothing ... but are a couple of shots that were likely posted over at AAAC ... predating my SF membership.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Huntsman....
     
  9. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Huntsman....
    Indeed ... with the top eight being Anderson & Sheppard.
     
  10. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    21oz. London Lounge Brown Herringbone 3 piece Tweed suit by Lovat Mill [​IMG]
    That jacket has more of an overcoat front than a suit jacket. What tailor made this for you?
     
  11. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    Good eye FNB. I actually wanted some overlap based on the below photo. My tailor said at most he'll do 2 inches of overlap since at about 4-5 inches of overlap, it becomes a double breasted suit.

    As I'm sure you'll agree FNB, kudos to Michael Alden for this beautifully commissioned cloth [​IMG]

    The below pic was the inspiration for the overlap...specifically the man on the left with the same colored cloth

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Good eye FNB. I actually wanted some overlap based on the below photo. My tailor said at most he'll do 2 inches of overlap since at about 4-5 inches of overlap, it becomes a double breasted suit. As I'm sure you'll agree FNB, kudos to Michael Alden for this beautifully commissioned cloth [​IMG] The below pic was the inspiration for the overlap...specifically the man on the left with the same colored cloth [​IMG]
    I don't know that there is an overlap at all there. I also think you should ask this tailor (who made this?) to re-cut front quarters for you. I don't mind fairly closed quarters but not completely closed ones and on no account a single breasted overlap; especially with a bulky cloth on someone like yourself. I wish I could see a better colored, closer shot of the cloth. Don't get me started with Alden's design aesthetic. It should be enough that you want to buy it.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know that there is an overlap at all there. I also think you should ask this tailor (who made this?) to re-cut front quarters for you.

    I don't mind fairly closed quarters but not completely closed ones and on no account a single breasted overlap; especially with a bulky cloth on someone like yourself.


    I agree. I imagine that M. would look a lot more slender with open quarters, less overlap, and a lower buttoning point.
     
  14. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    I don't know that there is an overlap at all there. I also think you should ask this tailor (who made this?) to re-cut front quarters for you.
    I agree.
    And ... another in agreement.
     
  15. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    Mafoofan and FNB, thanks for the comments Seeking a slender build on my massive and well fed frame is always the challenge for my tailor...but it is one of the reasons I do bespoke This was my first and possibly last ever experiment with overlap. I specifically asked for more open quarters, but my tailor convinced me that it would look bad As to Mafoofan's comments on the lower buttoning point...I presume this is for the jacket. I don't like 2 button jackets and with a vest, I don't like having a large exposed area between the top of the vest and top of the 3rd button on the jacket. I like massive lapels...when possible and the button stance on this jacket has been a good medium on how I like it. Vests are problematic for me. the lower the vest opening, the worse it fits and looks. Perhaps it is the limitation inherent in dealing with my tailor (and I've done 14 suits with him), or its just my build which prevents me from having better fitting and looking lower button vests. Double breasted vests are even more of a problem...thus I've opted for 7 buttons. Am always open to comments on improving the cut of my jacket to convey a good style consistent with my build...so fire away [​IMG] FNB: I'll give you a double dose of Michael Alden's cloth marvels. Here is a better photo shot with an 8 megapixel camer of the Eden in Paris (top grey flannel with blue windowpane) and the Brown Tweed Herringbone on the bottom. The Eden in Paris is a gorgeous 13oz woolen flannel [​IMG] [​IMG]
     

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