The "X" tightness of the suit jacket, should there be official exceptions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Suntory, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. Suntory

    Suntory Senior member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    123
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2015
    Location:
    If you are supreme you can wear what you want.
    Some members have suggested that even skinny folks wearing a larger size could still have the "X" being formed, here Chulillo has a valid point:

    Here are some SF members with a slight X crease, which should be considered acceptable even in their MTM suits:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    As you can see, these are not hip members following the disgusting super skinny suit fad, but are quite elegant and beautiful in their nicely fitted suits that still have a slight faded X crease. This is why I think the "No X rule" should not be placed in the same category as the "slight faded creasing X", which is acceptable. Thoughts?
     


  2. 7_rocket

    7_rocket Senior member

    Messages:
    2,362
    Likes Received:
    404
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2009
    Location:
    Toronto
    Doesn't really bother me unless it's very noticeably. I have a MTM suit that pulls slightly because the top button is too high. But now I gained some weight and it's tight, so I'm going to let it out a bit.

    The 3rd pic is exactly what I'm talking about. Button stance being high.
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,046
    Likes Received:
    21,069
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    The no X rule speaks to a natural standing posture, arms at the side. An X is created by pulling at the button. In a standing position, there shouldn't be an X if the jacket fits well. The most common fit issue that leads to the X is the jacket waist is too small, but a number of other issues with fit can lead to it.

    In most of your examples, the person is in motion or the arms aren't at his side, so some pulling occurs. But for those that are standing straight and still:

    Too tight on Foo and it doesn't look good. Could be the picture.

    SYCSYC, that jacket has some other issues. Look at the degree of wrinkling all along the right side of the jacket (not just at the button)

    The guy below him (blue jacket), the jacket looks too tight, though that could be due to his arms. It doesn't look awful, but it doesn't look great. And it would look better if the jacket were let out just enough to get rid of the pulling.

    I don't know who the last picture is of (Dennis Walter?), but it is too tight (possibly because of the sweater) and as a result doesn't look good.

    ---

    In any case, pulling at the button is NEVER as good as no pulling at the button, all else equal. And it is usually a sign that the jacket is too small but it can be a sign of other fit issues.

    It doesn't mean a person needs to go MTM and certainly not a reason to go bespoke. But it is a good reason to take the jacket in to a tailor. And if it is something a tailor can't fix, it's a good reason to no longer buy RTW jackets from that particular maker.

    ---

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2015


  4. Suntory

    Suntory Senior member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    123
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2015
    Location:
    If you are supreme you can wear what you want.
    Fantastically detailed explanation. Let's keep this thread alive.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by