Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Tirailleur1, May 22, 2014.
SVB is German all the way!
It was suggested to me that I post this link here in case any of you would like to join in on this challenge:
All participants welcome.
Maison Martin Margiela - Cream Embroidered Knit - Frost Gray Virgin Wool Trousers - Replica 70's Military Cuban Heel Boots - Cartier X 2
Last Extra Lifestyles For My In Colder Climate Bros
Late to the game, and knowing the risk of going full on micro details mode, since you tagged me, and perhaps someone on the internet may gain something from this, here are my thoughts.
I think people want to think sometimes that achieving an exemplary break is easier than it really is. There are a lot of factors to it, and in the end, like almost anything else here, if you really want to nail it, you really have to care. You have to put a lot of thought into it, you have to do a lot of measuring and back and forth from the tailor, and yada yada yada.
That said, for me, its about figuring out based on your body type the exact (or as close to it as possible) measurements you need in a few areas, and some other non measurement factors as well.
1. Knowing what is the ideal hem opening for you. For me, its about 8.25 - 8.75, 9 is ok, but I dont love it.
2. Knowing your exact inseam. For me its about 27.75/28, and my left leg is slightly longer than my right. Having a military/angled hem, is nice for sure, but not really needed imo.
3. Knowing your proper waist and thigh measurement. Everything hangs from the top, so if fabric is bunching or pulling up top its going to affect the drape.
4. Quality fabric. They just drape better. Generally a heavier fabric will accomplish this, but even that is no sure thing if its poor fabric, and I have some lighter weight trousers that due to the quality of the fabric drape really well. Thanks HY summer flannel, Rota and NMWA!
5. Cuffs. I know SB and others are going to yabber jabber about this, but if you ask me there is not a non tuxedo dress pant in the world that is not going to drape better with cuffs. Puriod.
6. Dont screw with pants that are too far off OTR. If its needs a lot of taking in or out at the waist, of it needs really almost any tapering at all, its probably not going to work when its done. The pant is made with a general ratio and when you have to mess with it, if you go too far its probably going to end badly.
Hope that helps somebody.
7. Order all of your pants from Ambrosi. It's the best, fastest, and most reliable way to get your bespoke pants.
Do you think I disagree with this? Because I don't.
Idk, I thought you were a champion of team #nocuffs.
thafuck? How can you diss me like that, brosef? You think so little of me?
I'm through wit you.
Sorry, I couldn't help myself.
Damn guys. I just have to requirements from my pants 1. Virgin Wool 2. Slim. Bam out the door
Well I may be one to talk, but this ain't exactly the cleanest break we've ever seen round these parts:
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