The watch DISCUSSION thread

[radicaldog]

I don't know very much about watches, but my "one watch" collection would be this Rolex Datejust. I inherited it from my father, who bought it in the 1960s shortly after graduating college. My family is from Saigon, and they escaped the Vietnam War, then the killing fields in Cambodia, and then the Iranian Revolution. Each time when fleeing, my dad had this watch with him. One time, my dad got robbed while in the US and someone pointed a shotgun in his face. Right before they approached, however, he had the calmness of mind to slip his watch off his wrist and throw it into the corner (his hands were under a counter and they couldn't see). Some years later, he gave it to me when I turned 30.


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I love the watch and it's easily the most important material thing I own. However, I only wear it with suits and sport coats. I find it too dressy for my casualwear, which goes between workwear (e.g. vintage Lee trucker with raw denim jeans and an RRL flannel) and some contemporary stuff (e.g. Margiela five-zip). I even find it too dressy for some CM-adjacent casualwear, like stuff from Kaptain Sunshine. Been thinking about buying a Rolex Submariner for casual outfits (mostly workwear and Kaptain Sunshine type stuff).

I have a friend who's really into clothing and watches, and I admire his taste. Sometimes we meet up for dinner and drinks when he's in San Francisco. When I mentioned to him my plan to buy a Rolex Sub, he said that he thinks I should buy a Rolex Explorer (1016) instead. He thinks it suits my personality better. I've been mulling on it.

Lovely watch, moving story. I've this Omega automatic my dad got from his parents when he got into the Italian Army Military Academy in the early 50s and which he wore for many years as a sort of field watch. If it weren't so fragile by now and if I weren't too afraid of losing it it would make a great one-watch:

Now, two questions for you Derek, if you have the time:

1. Is the cloth in the background your summer tweed? It's been ready for a first fitting at my tailor since before Covid, sigh.

2. A modern Submariner? Do you really want to wear the watch that every other midtown bro buys with his first bonus?

More seriously, I really don't see the appeal of modern Rolexes: it's a company that became famous because of its modernist, no-nonsense design values, and now they're a maker of shiny jewellery. This is an unpopular view, but I think the last real Rolex was the Oysterquartz.

Having said that, the 1016 is a fantastic, older design and many cite it as a do-anything watch. But it went out of production in 1989. I'd love to get a 1980 one (my birth year) but I genuinely don't know whether its waterproofness could still be trusted, even if serviced properly. Also, the prices of those old steel pieces are frankly a bit extreme these days.

 

[am55]

I don't know very much about watches, but my "one watch" collection would be this Rolex Datejust. I inherited it from my father, who bought it in the 1960s shortly after graduating college. My family is from Saigon, and they escaped the Vietnam War, then the killing fields in Cambodia, and then the Iranian Revolution.

If it's not indiscreet, I would love to know how a Vietnamese family ended up in Iran in the 1970s. I have many family and friend connections with the Vietnamese community in various countries and never heard anyone take that path!

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Have you thought about putting it on a strap or would it ruin the memory? These really come together on a simple green or tan strap with ecru stitching IMO especially for casual wear.

 

[taxgenius]

This is my only luxury watch and I intended it to be my one watch. Time (pun intended) will tell.

 

[TheChihuahua]

I am a fan of a small watch collection. I find when it has gotten large I still find myself going back to the old faithful(s)

I have about 20 pairs of shoes, a dozen belts, nearing 200 ties. I love having a rotation for that stuff.
But for watches? I don’t know why but

I have one dress watch but put it in a steel bracelet (live in the tropics so steel is nice) and I like that one as an every day wearer.
I have a 1960’s omega seamaster DeVille I wear as an alternative. Was my first automatic watch and have had it over a decade.
and then I have a seiko for the beach and golf course

 

[Dino944]

I don't know very much about watches, but my "one watch" collection would be this Rolex Datejust. I inherited it from my father, who bought it in the 1960s shortly after graduating college. My family is from Saigon, and they escaped the Vietnam War, then the killing fields in Cambodia, and then the Iranian Revolution. Each time when fleeing, my dad had this watch with him. One time, my dad got robbed while in the US and someone pointed a shotgun in his face. Right before they approached, however, he had the calmness of mind to slip his watch off his wrist and throw it into the corner (his hands were under a counter and they couldn't see). Some years later, he gave it to me when I turned 30.


View attachment 1595781


I love the watch and it's easily the most important material thing I own. However, I only wear it with suits and sport coats. I find it too dressy for my casualwear, which goes between workwear (e.g. vintage Lee trucker with raw denim jeans and an RRL flannel) and some contemporary stuff (e.g. Margiela five-zip). I even find it too dressy for some CM-adjacent casualwear, like stuff from Kaptain Sunshine. Been thinking about buying a Rolex Submariner for casual outfits (mostly workwear and Kaptain Sunshine type stuff).

I have a friend who's really into clothing and watches, and I admire his taste. Sometimes we meet up for dinner and drinks when he's in San Francisco. When I mentioned to him my plan to buy a Rolex Sub, he said that he thinks I should buy a Rolex Explorer (1016) instead. He thinks it suits my personality better. I've been mulling on it.

Very interesting background on your watch. Thanks for sharing how it got to you. Absolutely love the vintage dial on that. Really cool looking.

That is really a very versatile watch. I know people that wear a Datejust like that with everything. I think in your mind you are building it up to be dressier than it is. However, as other's have show, you could put it on a strap, that would dress it down for you.

The 1016 is a nice watch, but so is a Sub. Would you be considering a new Sub or vintage. I don't know if you plan to swim or dive with whatever watch you buy, but if you would you should get something new or pre-owned but reasonably new. Most companies and watchmakers advise against going diving with vintage watches. Even with a fresh service you can't guarantee they would be safe from water getting into the case, and they aren't that easy to replace.

I think the 1016 is nice, but in away a bit similar to what you have. The Sub would give you some diversity in terms of design and purpose. I owned a later Explorer, a 114270, which was a very nice watch. I loved how the Explorer looked in photos and on other people, but it was never my go to watch. I always chose a different watch in my collection and it never got much wrist time so I sold it. I just think a 1016 is nice, but not different enough from the watch you have (yes the dial, movement and lack of date or different), but a Sub would give you a completely different looks. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[dieworkwear]

Lovely watch, moving story. I've this Omega automatic my dad got from his parents when he got into the Italian Army Military Academy in the early 50s and which he wore for many years as a sort of field watch. If it weren't so fragile by now and if I weren't too afraid of losing it it would make a great one-watch:
View attachment 1595935

Now, two questions for you Derek, if you have the time:

1. Is the cloth in the background your summer tweed? It's been ready for a first fitting at my tailor since before Covid, sigh.

2. A modern Submariner? Do you really want to wear the watch that every other midtown bro buys with his first bonus?

More seriously, I really don't see the appeal of modern Rolexes: it's a company that became famous because of its modernist, no-nonsense design values, and now they're a maker of shiny jewellery. This is an unpopular view, but I think the last real Rolex was the Oysterquartz.

Having said that, the 1016 is a fantastic, older design and many cite it as a do-anything watch. But it went out of production in 1989. I'd love to get a 1980 one (my birth year) but I genuinely don't know whether its waterproofness could still be trusted, even if serviced properly. Also, the prices of those old steel pieces are frankly a bit extreme these days.

Very interesting background on your watch. Thanks for sharing how it got to you. Absolutely love the vintage dial on that. Really cool looking.

That is really a very versatile watch. I know people that wear a Datejust like that with everything. I think in your mind you are building it up to be dressier than it is. However, as other's have show, you could put it on a strap, that would dress it down for you.

The 1016 is a nice watch, but so is a Sub. Would you be considering a new Sub or vintage. I don't know if you plan to swim or dive with whatever watch you buy, but if you would you should get something new or pre-owned but reasonably new. Most companies and watchmakers advise against going diving with vintage watches. Even with a fresh service you can't guarantee they would be safe from water getting into the case, and they aren't that easy to replace.

I think the 1016 is nice, but in away a bit similar to what you have. The Sub would give you some diversity in terms of design and purpose. I owned a later Explorer, a 114270, which was a very nice watch. I loved how the Explorer looked in photos and on other people, but it was never my go to watch. I always chose a different watch in my collection and it never got much wrist time so I sold it. I just think a 1016 is nice, but not different enough from the watch you have (yes the dial, movement and lack of date or different), but a Sub would give you a completely different looks. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Thanks! Fabric is a wool-silk-linen hopsack. I can't remember the merchant/ mill, but it was some random fabric I found.

That Omega looks great, btw.

Regarding the Sub, I would be going for vintage. I was thinking of a transitional Sub (16800).

I've read people online say they hate people with Rolexes. I'm not that immersed in the watch world to have an opinion, but was thinking of getting a Rolex cause my dad had a Rolex. I also thought a Sub would go well with workwear, which is mostly what I'm in if I'm not in tailored clothing. Agree that the Explorer is a little too close to what I already have -- that's the main thing holding me back from getting one.

I don't have any friends in finance and don't live in an area with a lot of people who work in finance. Don't know if that makes a diff. But I realize the Sub is somewhat of a general "middle-aged guy who's trying to impress others" watch. I'm less concerned with that than I am wearing something that doesn't suit my personality. I'm not a very sporty dude -- definitely don't swim or go diving. I mostly want something I can wear with denim trucker jackets, bomber jackets, raw denim, flannel, heavy boots, etc. I wear a lot of Kapital, Nigel Cabourn, RRL type things and the Datejust still feels too dressy to me -- I think even if I switched out the strap.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

Regarding the Sub, I would be going for vintage. I was thinking of a transitional Sub (16800).

I've been casually looking for this model. It's the last good buy in vintage Rolex whose prices haven't exploded (yet). Buy one of the earlier models with a matte dial and without white-gold surrounds--like a 1680 (albeit a sapphire crystal instead of acrylic) but with a quick-set date.

 

[mhip]

Thanks! Fabric is a wool-silk-linen hopsack. I can't remember the merchant/ mill, but it was some random fabric I found.

That Omega looks great, btw.

Regarding the Sub, I would be going for vintage. I was thinking of a transitional Sub (16800).

I've read people online say they hate people with Rolexes. I'm not that immersed in the watch world to have an opinion, but was thinking of getting a Rolex cause my dad had a Rolex. I also thought a Sub would go well with workwear, which is mostly what I'm in if I'm not in tailored clothing. Agree that the Explorer is a little too close to what I already have -- that's the main thing holding me back from getting one.

I don't have any friends in finance and don't live in an area with a lot of people who work in finance. Don't know if that makes a diff. But I realize the Sub is somewhat of a general "middle-aged guy who's trying to impress others" watch. I'm less concerned with that than I am wearing something that doesn't suit my personality. I'm not a very sporty dude -- definitely don't swim or go diving. I mostly want something I can wear with denim trucker jackets, bomber jackets, raw denim, flannel, heavy boots, etc. I wear a lot of Kapital, Nigel Cabourn, RRL type things and the Datejust still feels too dressy to me -- I think even if I switched out the strap.

I forgot to add that that was a fantastic story, which did immediately make me think of Pulp Fiction/Walken.
And then Adsky came straight in with the clip.
If I had a legacy Rolly, I'd have no choice but to love it...

 

[bluejazzmonkey]

I own more than one watch, but this magical jewel gets all of

the wrist time...

 

[radicaldog]

But I realize the Sub is somewhat of a general "middle-aged guy who's trying to impress others" watch. I'm less concerned with that than I am wearing something that doesn't suit my personality. I'm not a very sporty dude -- definitely don't swim or go diving. I mostly want something I can wear with denim trucker jackets, bomber jackets, raw denim, flannel, heavy boots, etc. I wear a lot of Kapital, Nigel Cabourn, RRL type things

Then the 1016 sounds like a safer choice. The classic Cabourn pairing would be a field/military watch (look at his collabs with Timex), and the old Explorer does have that look. I would also look at actual vintage field watches, as there are some gems there:

Or if you're set on a diver then the Benrus Type I is great (they reissued it recently, but it was worn by Special Forces in Vietnam, so one may have varied feelings about that):

Three-hand pilot watches would also work well for the look you describe, vintage or reissued (lots of great options beyond the usual IWC ones):

Anyway, sorry for all the unsolicited and elementary advice -- I just felt like googling some pictures!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I've read people online say they hate people with Rolexes.

No other watch, and I’d argue no other wearable item, garners the level of psychoanalysis of its owner quite like Rolex. It’s become a totem. I don’t pay attention to it.

 

[bluejazzmonkey]

but was thinking of getting a Rolex cause my dad had a Rolex.

Did you ask your father "why" he wore a Rolex??

 

[Phileas Fogg]

But I realize the Sub is somewhat of a general "middle-aged guy who's trying to impress others" watch.

so those of us that do are middle aged and trying to impress others?

See above about my psychoanalysis comment.

 

[TheIronDandy]

I don't have any friends in finance and don't live in an area with a lot of people who work in finance. Don't know if that makes a diff. But I realize the Sub is somewhat of a general "middle-aged guy who's trying to impress others" watch. I'm less concerned with that than I am wearing something that doesn't suit my personality. I'm not a very sporty dude -- definitely don't swim or go diving. I mostly want something I can wear with denim trucker jackets, bomber jackets, raw denim, flannel, heavy boots, etc. I wear a lot of Kapital, Nigel Cabourn, RRL type things and the Datejust still feels too dressy to me -- I think even if I switched out the strap.

I think the idea of a Rolex (and a Sub in particular) being a bragging-watch is a bit exaggerated. Yes, on watch and clothing forums people believe they can determine someone's personality by the watch they wear (and there's plenty of people who have spreadsheets detailing the average time on a waiting list, value increase, and so on..), but you can also get branded a heretic for choosing the wrong weight of selvage denim for your jeans. It's not really a good indicator to what your average person thinks. If you were to wear a Sub in public, I think the most common reactions you would get is "Hey man, cool watch.", "Well, SOMEONE is doing well for himself!" and "Is it genuine?" Rolex IS the most recognizable luxury watch brand out there; my mum, who wouldn't know a Patek from a Casio knows that Rolex is fancy, and that alone makes it a bit of a style statement. But in my experience, most people aren't grinches who will hate you for your success, or think you're trying to put yourself above them by wearing a nice watch. The handful that would resent it sounds like jerks who you probably don't want to know anyway. I'd consider it an extra feature on the watch: "jerk-detector". Let's see an Apple watch do that!

That said, I WOULD worry about the inflated prices, and the fact that the watch being so recognizable means that a punk who wouldn't look twice at a Vacheron Constantin will instantly recognize a Sub, and knows it's worth stealing.

 

[9thsymph]

Re Rolex Sub (vintage)...I really love my 14060. It's modern enough to find examples in great shape, but has the pre-ceramic/pre-maxi-case and other more "vintage" characteristics. If price, or "Rolex stigma" are factors, a Tudor BB58 is a worthy option (full disclosure: I have Sub and BB58...nobody seems to notice either watch and they both go great with a pretty broad spectrum of attire = WW/SW----CM/Tailoring...). I have both precisely because I am very close to Rolex for a number of reasons, but am also sensitive to the social perception of the brand, so at times prefer the Tudor for that reason...