The watch DISCUSSION thread

[Milksteakboiledhard]

Idk, summer watch, I am picturing something sporty. Maybe white face, bracelet or non dark strap.

It would be a year round watch and my primary piece going forward. I see pairing a brown/tan leather strap on it for summer. The AP's are undeniably nice, but well outside of my budget.

 

[venessian]

I'm looking at a late spring/early summer watch purchase that will be a significant jump in spend compared to my current choices (grey market Hamiltons). With those disclaimers out of the way here are my target features: blue dial and a small seconds complication. The Nomos Ahoi and IWC Portugieser jumped out to me as front runners in this design. The IWC is definitely on the high side (and over the initial budget estimate, +/- 5k) for what appearance wise is a standard clean design - granted it is well executed. I rarely wear a suit, weddings and infrequent c-suite meetings, and typically dress in jeans/chinos.

Are there any other watches that come to mind? That said if I walked into an AD and they had a Rolex Explorer in stock, I'd likely buy it and table this for a year. The good news is that won't happen.

(MS Paint, not to scale)
View attachment 1598175

Need more info. Blue dial models are all over the place these days, even with small seconds.

What does "late spring/early summer watch" mean to you? (I have no idea what constitutes a "seasonal" watch, frankly.)
EDIT: my apologies, I thought you meant "late spring/early summer style" of watch, because many here refer to "seasonal" watches, when you simply meant the purchase date. Whew... ;-)
Where on the dress v sport v tool spectrum?
Date? No-date? Etc?
Min/Max case size? Shape round only?
Strap or bracelet or either?
Is the budget $5K max? What is the minimum range? (Hamilton to Nomos Ahoi to Portugieser to Rolex is a hell of a range.)

 

[venessian]

It would be a year round watch and my primary piece going forward. I see pairing a brown/tan leather strap on it for summer. The AP's are undeniably nice, but well outside of my budget.

This helps regarding use (year-round, primary, which is good to know) and strap.

But what are the other must-haves/desired? You stated blue dial, but then I see whites being proposed.... You do want blue, correct?

 

[Texasmade]

I’m thinking Cartier Santos. Comes with a metal bracelet and can easily be swapped with straps. Get the large size so you can swap with the black rubber strap. I’m not sure if the rubber strap will fit on the medium.

 

[Milksteakboiledhard]

My bonus is paid in late spring, the watch doesn't need to be seasonal. A blue dial is a firm requirement while small seconds is a flexible requirement if it can be placed appropriately in a less dressy watch. 5k is the sweet spot for the maximum budget, but I'm not going to spend money for the sake of it (thats for boots).

quick edit: I don't like Roman numerals as I feel they make a watch fall into the dress watch category.

 

[Texasmade]

Blue dial Seamaster 300M Pro or the new blue bezel white dial Seamaster 300M Pro that was just released by Omega.

For something a little dressier and less sporty, the new blue dial Seamaster 300M (not the Pro model).

 

[bdavro23]

My bonus is paid in late spring, the watch doesn't need to be seasonal. A blue dial is a firm requirement while small seconds is a flexible requirement if it can be placed appropriately in a less dressy watch. 5k is the sweet spot for the maximum budget, but I'm not going to spend money for the sake of it (thats for boots).

quick edit: I don't like Roman numerals as I feel they make a watch fall into the dress watch category.

IW327010-Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Edition “Le Petit Prince”

This thematic special edition of the Mark XVIII with blue dial has a compact case that unites all the functions and style cues of a typical Pilot's Watch.

www.iwc.com

 

[mak1277]

I'm looking at a late spring/early summer watch purchase that will be a significant jump in spend compared to my current choices (grey market Hamiltons). With those disclaimers out of the way here are my target features: blue dial and a small seconds complication. The Nomos Ahoi and IWC Portugieser jumped out to me as front runners in this design. The IWC is definitely on the high side (and over the initial budget estimate, +/- 5k) for what appearance wise is a standard clean design - granted it is well executed. I rarely wear a suit, weddings and infrequent c-suite meetings, and typically dress in jeans/chinos.

Are there any other watches that come to mind? That said if I walked into an AD and they had a Rolex Explorer in stock, I'd likely buy it and table this for a year. The good news is that won't happen.

(MS Paint, not to scale)
View attachment 1598175

I’d check out a blue dialed Omega Aqua Terra also. For these two, I’d say the IWC is way nicer than the Nomos (boring flat dial...try before you buy if you go that direction).

 

[9thsymph]

I'm looking at a late spring/early summer watch purchase that will be a significant jump in spend compared to my current choices (grey market Hamiltons). With those disclaimers out of the way here are my target features: blue dial and a small seconds complication. The Nomos Ahoi and IWC Portugieser jumped out to me as front runners in this design. The IWC is definitely on the high side (and over the initial budget estimate, +/- 5k) for what appearance wise is a standard clean design - granted it is well executed. I rarely wear a suit, weddings and infrequent c-suite meetings, and typically dress in jeans/chinos.

Are there any other watches that come to mind? That said if I walked into an AD and they had a Rolex Explorer in stock, I'd likely buy it and table this for a year. The good news is that won't happen.

(MS Paint, not to scale)
View attachment 1598175

I like both of these. Aside from surface similarities they are vastly different beasts, though. That said, you can’t go wrong imho.

 

[venessian]

It would be a year round watch and my primary piece going forward. I see pairing a brown/tan leather strap on it for summer. The AP's are undeniably nice, but well outside of my budget.

Initial blue dial + small seconds examples (no romans: I dislike them too), in no particular order, some clearly more formal than others, which I think (not checked) generally fit the budget criteria:

Nomos Ahoi Atlantic:

Nomos Orion Midnight (several variants available):

Nomos 822 Blaugold (my watch, love it the most of the Nomos's):

IWC Portugieser (gorgeous, no doubt):

Damasko DK105 (with Damasko's in-house movement):

Tutima Patria:

Tourby Art Deco Art 40 (somewhat customizable):

Zenith Heritage Ultra Thin:

 

[9thsymph]

Sub playing leatherback turtle...

 

[Adsky Luck]

In other news, Orient makes a watch for the sartorial community, Orient Star Layered Skeleton

Check out the description

The new Layered Skeleton features a two-layer dial featuring motifs incorporating suit fabric. The upper layer dial representing the outer material of a suit is designed with a herringbone pattern while the lower layer dial has a paisley pattern with a sheen reminiscent of a cupra lining. The contrasting fabrics provide a unique accent to the overall look of the watch. The semi-skeleton opening on the dial is paisley shaped, and the open-work design of the power reserve display also reveals the inner workings of the mechanical movement. This sense of depth combined with the textile patterns creates an eye-catching look. And the gentle curves of the lugs evoke the dimple of a tie or the drape of fabric. This stylish, new design provides a perfect accent for any business occasion.

 

[Adsky Luck]

mispost, srry

 

[9thsymph]

Cross post:
A bit of a tangent, but I am struck by how often I hear the sentiment “Rolex is great in a pinch (while traveling) because it basically functions as currency anywhere you go...”

Doesn’t that mean you are also a target wherever you go - akin to wearing a bullseye?

Not trying to be a drag, but as I start to plan travel, I’m on the fence about safety issues related to wearing watches during this fairly outrageous watch market...I know this has always been a common-sense issue, but I’m just struck by the paradox of the wearing-a-currency argument..

 

[mak1277]

Cross post:
A bit of a tangent, but I am struck by how often I hear the sentiment “Rolex is great in a pinch (while traveling) because it basically functions as currency anywhere you go...”

Doesn’t that mean you are also a target wherever you go - akin to wearing a bullseye?

Not trying to be a drag, but as I start to plan travel, I’m on the fence about safety issues related to wearing watches during this fairly outrageous watch market...I know this has always been a common-sense issue, but I’m just struck by the paradox of the wearing-a-currency argument..

I've read that statement so many times as well. I suspect that 99% of the people who write/say it don't know a single person who has used their Rolex as currency to get out of a tough spot. I mean maybe 50 years ago when there weren't ATMs and credit cards everywhere.

Just wear your no-date Rolex...thieves are looking for the cyclops.