The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Delands]

Gents,

The wife has decided, in her infinite wisdom, that she would like to gift me a watch for Christmas. Given however, that she is chronologically clueless, she has requested for some assistance in selection of the gift. She has asked for a short (or -long) list of fine timepieces to choose from - final decision will be hers so I guess she can still say that she had some input in the gift.

I'm currently looking for a dressier watch - have enough sports watches for now, but doesn't need to be too dressy. I've been looking at JLC Master Control, IWC Ingenieur, possibly something from Glashutte (Senator or Pano). No chrono, preferably no date but not a deal breaker. Leather strap preferred but steel is fine too. Anything else similar (and preferably similarly priced, I'd love to ask for a PP or ALS but oh well, maybe in another 10 years) I can add to the list?

I've been lurking around here for some time and I thought I'd chime in on this questions since I encountered something similar a couple of months ago.

My fiancée wanted to give me an engagement present in the form of a watch. Since she doesn't know much about watches she asked my input and I set up a long/short list and then visited some ADs with her to try on the watches and see them in the metal.

My requirements were a classic 3-hander with a silver/white dial on a strap. My initial list included the JLC Master Control, JLC Master Ultra Thin, a few Omega's from the Deville line, an IWC Portofino the Zenith Captain central second.

After trying these on, the final short list was between the JLC Master Control and the Zenith, but with the smoked dial. The AD only had the smoked dial in stock to try on and I just really liked it. It has a nice sunburst effect to it and adds something extra to the watch IMO.

Eventually, my fiancée chose the Zenith and I couldn't be happier. It's easy to dress up, but also to wear casually. It has almost become my only watch for the moment.

Here's a picture:


I hope it helps in your decision making process.

Your're very lucky with a wife like you have!

 

[Belligero]



Planning to buy IWC, struggling with choosing between  Portuguese and pilot!!!! 

Simple solution:
Do you prefer to pretend to be an old-timey merchant or an old-timey Luftwaffe navigator?

 

[mimo]

@suaviter I am pre-Rolex, but it is inevitable.

@ridethecliche that watch is the darling of the Poor Man's Watch Thread. I can't get past their huge logo myself (and I don't much like 3 o'clock date windows, especially on a dress watch), but really it's a bargain. And shop around, you'll find them very cheap.

@aleksandr lucky you! The MUT Moon would be the TWAT favourite, I like the smaller MUT small seconds more than the Grand 40mm version, and there's a version of Delands' Port Royal with no date that I think is really smart. Just a left-field suggestion: have you looked at RGM?

@digdigdig there is a cheaper way to join the Luftwaffe, with a similar movement and just as much history. So if you have the option, I'd say Portuguese Chrono, despite the mixed reviews above, and get the other one with the change.

 

[RogerP]

@Delands - that is a gorgeous watch - I've seen it in person and just love the smoked dial.

 

[Tried and True]



a watchmaker recently told me of one those clients simply throwing away a high-end tourbillon that stopped running rather than having it serviced. :O

Sounds like urban legend.

 

[Belligero]



Sounds like urban legend.

Could be, but I don't entirely doubt it, either. It wouldn't be the most extreme example of splashing around cash ever; I'm certain of that.

I wouldn't even be particularly shocked to see horlogerie-as-hors-d'oeuvre become an actual thing. Maybe some enterprising type could make a production of grinding one of those 175th anniversary releases into Paté Philippe (dibs on the trademark!) at the table, just to make those dining on mere shark-fin soup feel like peasants?

It would also redefine what constitutes a high-end movement. You'd be literally ******** wealth!

 

[Delands]

@Delands - that is a gorgeous watch - I've seen it in person and just love the smoked dial.

Thanks @RogerP ! It is beautiful indeed.

The movement is quite nice as well and in my opinion better decorated than the JLC Master Control.

 

[ncc1701d]

Sorry if this has been covered, just seeing what thoughts anyone has on this:

http://www.omegawatches.com/collection/speedmaster/skywalker-x-33/presentation/skywalker-x33

 

[velomatt]

Yowsa. 45mm case. Must be meant to be worn outside of a space suit. Good thing I'm not an astronaut.

 

[Dino944]

Cartier ain't the only transgressor.

No clearly they are not. Looks like its not just an IWC thing, Cartier thing or VC thing...unfortunately it seems like its becoming a Richemont thing...

 

[Dino944]

Yowsa. 45mm case. Must be meant to be worn outside of a space suit. Good thing I'm not an astronaut.

Or maybe its to bring out the Flavor Flav in astronauts and they will be wearing it on a chain around the neck of their space suits

 

[velomatt]

No clearly they are not. Looks like its not just an IWC thing, Cartier thing or VC thing...unfortunately it seems like its becoming a Richemont thing...

From a design perspective, I can see someone saying "we need to devote more surface area of the dial to complications" and this is an easier, less subtle way of doing that. If you're going to have a date window, I too prefer the (relatively) more nuanced window that shows a single date. This trend seems to smack of desperation and "look at me" over utility and elegance.

 

[in stitches]

Aleksandr, awesome news. Is there a price point/range you need to be in?

 

[Belligero]



I think you nailed it here; one really needs to separate the product from the marketing. I think IWC still makes great watches; in fact, as you have said, one could argue they are in fact making far far better watches today than they did in the past, and kudos to them for becoming a true manufacture and upping their game.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

There is no doubt that they make great watches. However, as you have also noted, what has gotten older IWC collectors' & loyalists' nose out of joint is the blatant marketing of IWC as a luxury brand and explicit pandering to the nouveau riche. That rather infamous video posted here by the current IWC CEO was fairly blatant re: his take on IWC becoming a "life style" brand...Again, though, I don't think we should judge a brand by its celebrity ambassadors. For example, I love AP and we own several, yet I'm not a fan of the majority of their Offshore offerings and the celebrity clientele they use to tout their products. If the OP loves the Portuguese Chrono, just go for it. Don't let a few anonymous voices on the interwebz turn you off your path!

It's not only the gloating about the "pricing power of image" that turns me off, but it's also the results of this contempt for customers. I just plain don't trust IWC.

Case in point:

original photo: tonny b on iwc.com/forum

This is the inside of a watch that costs five figures.

The apologists say "big deal, it's a closed back", but display backs are a relatively new thing (and a silly one in most applications) and it's a bit of an insult to the tradition of watchmaking. A decent watch should have something better than a cheaply bead-blast-finished movement. The principle is the same as the Panerai 318, which was another limited edition with corners cut.

Maybe it's a Richemont thing, just like the triple date window (thanks for pointing that out, Dino!).

 

[RogerP]

Did I miss some enthusiastic raging against the triple date window? Darn. Let me just add belatedly that I reallt don't like that feature.

IWC stil makes some great watches. But let's just say that it has been clear to me for a while that they have embarked upon a path which I am disinclined to follow. Too much hype over substance and marketing / branding over product.

As for the pic above.... wow. Apologists will also claim that this represents "functional finishing" or some such justification. But I know a naked emporor when I see one.