The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Liam0062]

T

...

Welcome Liam,

You have a beautiful watch, nice job on the restore, that has to be for me one of the nicer Breitling's, very clean and not too busy. Your father has good taste. Cheers
Thanks...I have several of his and my grandfathers. IMO, the vintage watches have great character.

 

[Liam0062]

Th

...

Nice job

Thanks.

 

[Liam0062]



^^^ Beautiful watch.  What all was done in the restoration?

I took it to a friend that is a local jeweler who then sent it to someone that restore's Breitlings. There were no mechanical problems with the movement, so it overhauled and the face restored. I am far from an expert, but I believe they did an excellent job.

 

[in stitches]

that 15400 looks amazing to me.

 

[dddrees]

I actually just googled wrist photos of the 15400 and holy crap does it ever wear big for a 41mm watch. Does the 39mm wear big as well? I didn't even give the 15202 any consideration, because I've always considered anything under 40mm to be too small for me (which is a shame, because if Rolex offered the Explorer in a 40 or 42, it would be on my wrist right now).

The 15300 wears a bit bigger than it's actual size. The shape of the bezel, the shape and thickness of the watch head, and the bracelet all make the watch wear a bit bigger than it's actual size.

 

[in stitches]

one day i wil join the RO club.

 

[Dino944]

Nice discussion here from PuristS for another "Patek workhorse" - the cal 240. Found in Calatrava, Nautilus, perpetual calendar and even celestial pieces in various forms, the 240 has been around since 1977 and still powers some of Patek's mainstays. Does that mean it is less beautiful or somehow less desirable? In some people's minds, yes. To me, not so much. I love its finish, the beautiful 22K microrotor that allows you to see more of the movement versus, say, the 315 or the 324, and I love the pieces I have which it powers.

http://patek.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-11/pi-5750368/ti-847583/s-0/


Newcomer, I saw that video too. And that son did look rather young when he walked out the door with a Nautilus (dressed like no teenager I know would want to be dressed too, unless he were European royalty).

This was posted back in late 2011 but it's a worthwhile read. A cynical take on Patek's ads, from the point of view of someone who seems clearly averse to modern advertising's ways (after "Mad Men," who wouldn't be - hyuk hyuk hyuk).

http://thelastpsychiatrist.com/2011/11/luxury_branding_the_future_lea.html

The author actually gets a ton of factoids wrong ($10,000 would be a really cheap Patek hah hah) but it's worth a read for anyone who's willing to spend anywhere from hundreds to thousands to tens and hundreds of thousands on mechanical watches. Which basically means readers of TWAT.

I like Cal 240. The length of its production, or its relative lack of rarity in the world of Pateks doesn't bother me. I like the micro rotor and being able to see more of the movement.

As for the Patek ad with the boy and the Dad, the boy definitely doesn't look like he's 18 and going off to college. I thought he looked early 20s, maybe finished college, ready for grad school or first real job. I remember in college there were several guys with steel Rolex watches, Cartiers, Breitlings, there was even 1 guy that had a steel small sized RO...but no one was wearing a Patek. I think Patek largely had the connotation of being an older guys watch back then. The more "affordable Pateks" were Calatravas and Nautilus, and the Nautilus was not that popular in the early 90s. The explosion in popularity with the Nautilus came say around maybe 2004/2005 around the time of the 3712...there were rumors that Patek was going to end production of SS watches. All of the sudden speculators got interested and prices shot above MSRP (prior to the rumor Patek was not going to make steel watches, you could easily get a Nautilus at 30% off all day long). Its a great watch, but with the rumors proved only to be rumors, most models in production now for a while to satisfy demand, and prices having nearly doubled on some models in under 10 years, they are not as difficult to obtain as they were a few years ago. In recent years the Nautilus has become a more popular choice for younger Patek customers, so maybe now its a bit more plausible that someone in their 20s would want one.

The article by the Shrink is entertaining. He has some points, but I think its largely silly. I'm known people that do buy things because of the image they think it projects. However, if they don't fit that image or lifestyle, the item they buy is merely a prop and its never going to elevate them to fitting a particular image.

Frillster, I agree with you about the lovely development and finishing of the movement - PP seem to have taken that rather further than VC have, comparing the pictures I put up last page (maybe that's why it costs five or six times more!). But I think the specialness of the AL movement in the Datograph is beyond production numbers and even beauty, in that it was a completely new and original movement rather than an iteration of something that had gone before (so I'm told). They're all wonderful though, of course. One day I'm going to buy something very silly.

Mimo, I may disagree on the above. I don't think the difference in price has anything to do with finish. Depending on who you talk to Patek may or may not have an edge when it comes to the finish on their version of the movement, however there were actual modifications that Patek made making it a tad different from others using it. It was the modifications that some people appreciated. In addition, the price difference today is based on Patek's new status in the last 8 years of being a producer of complicated watches that appreciate in value more than their competitors (there are plenty of 5070s people bought kept in boxes and never wear waiting for prices to go up). The price difference is greater today than it was when the 5070 was new around 1999. Back then a VC Historique had a list price of about $17,000 in YG and a 5070 in YG was about $28,800. In addition, you could get some VC dealers to discount Historiques b quite a bit. Initially Patek dealers wouldn't discount 5070s very much, maybe 10% at best. In addition, for a while say in 2001/2002 you could get a LNIB or nearly new 5070 for around $19K. However that all started to turn around by 2005 and prices on new metal 5070s went up and values on preowned ones started to incease with them. In the end, the VC, Patek, and ALS are all nice watches, and each seems to be favored by different types of collectors.

The 15300 wears a bit bigger than it's actual size. The shape of the bezel, the shape and thickness of the watch head, and the bracelet all make the watch wear a bit bigger than it's actual size.

Agreed, APs do wear a bit larger than their measurements would suggest.

I actually just googled wrist photos of the 15400 and holy crap does it ever wear big for a 41mm watch. Does the 39mm wear big as well? I didn't even give the 15202 any consideration, because I've always considered anything under 40mm to be too small for me (which is a shame, because if Rolex offered the Explorer in a 40 or 42, it would be on my wrist right now).

While the 15400 isn't for me for several reasons, you owe it to yourself to try one on. You can't go by someone else's photo. I generally favor a 40mm watch and have worn Subs, GMTs, Explorer 2s, etc for years. I really don't find an appreciable difference in size of a 39mm AP RO and a 40mm Rolex. I find the difference between say a 39mm 15202 RO and a Submariner is the thickness or heft of the Rolex. If you like a slightly beefier thickness of case and bracelet, you might like the 15400 or the 15300 (out of production...its 39mm and thicker than a 15202). If you are really hard on watches and bang them around a lot, a 15400 or 15300 might be a better choice for you as both case and bracelet are considerably thicker. I like the slimness of the 15202, IMHO it transitions even better from sporty clothes to suit and I like having a somewhat sporty watch that is not very thick for a change. The down side to the 15202 is also the jump in price of around $5,500. You can easily find a better discount on a 15400 because they are more plentiful. When I was looking some places wouldn't offer a discount on a 15202 and I've heard 15202s have become tougher to come as much of its production is going to the boutiques.

A few wrist shots for comparison.

 

[Dino944]

one day i wil join the RO club.

Most definitely!

 

[DonCologne]

vintage omega dresswatch calibre 711 with only 8,1 mm depth the thinnest omega automatic watch.

 

[mimo]

Mimo, I may disagree on the above. I don't think the difference in price has anything to do with finish. Depending on who you talk to Patek may or may not have an edge when it comes to the finish on their version of the movement, however there were actual modifications that Patek made making it a tad different from others using it. It was the modifications that some people appreciated. In addition, the price difference today is based on Patek's new status in the last 8 years of being a producer of complicated watches that appreciate in value more than their competitors.

I was being a little frivolous in the price comparison, but I did say "development" and finish. I am no expert to understand the differences, but the Patek version is clearly, visibly more modified than the VC, as you said. As for the way the branding's gone, well...they got Frilly. It's working, right? In the mean time, at least I can still maybe aspire to the VC some day.

As for the Royal Oak, I can't say it jumped at me the first time I came across it. And I stil don't like the ROO at all. But those simple, clean lines on a modest steel RO, in pretty much all its guises (though I especially like the simple three hand, or the chrono), regardless of size, are really speaking to me. It's definitely one of those watches where less is more - the ROOs, the contrasting bezels and gold and whatever, all speak of insecurity and Death Row Records. But that brushed steel..that classic shape..that clean, eternally fresh-looking "tapisserie"...in simple stainless on a bracelet, they're all stunning. I'll be lining up behind Stitchy...one day...

 

[EmJay]

Thought I'd post a shot of my Stowa Antea for posterity. Purchased in '07 I believe, but looking to sell soon to make room for a JLC ultra thin. This is the Antea Creme model with an ETA movement, creme dial and black hands. I remember waiting something like 8 weeks to actually receive the watch post purchase. Ultimately arrived a few days before Xmas It was this or the Marine at the time, and I'm glad I went with the Antea and its art deco dial.

Not the greatest macro photography. Photo was taken with an iPhone 5.

 

[RogerP]

Don - that vintage Omega two-hander is sweet. EmJay - very nice Stowa. If they made a no-date version of that watch, I would have a hard time resisting.

 

[Dino944]

As for the Royal Oak, I can't say it jumped at me the first time I came across it. And I stil don't like the ROO at all. But those simple, clean lines on a modest steel RO, in pretty much all its guises (though I especially like the simple three hand, or the chrono), regardless of size, are really speaking to me. It's definitely one of those watches where less is more - the ROOs, the contrasting bezels and gold and whatever, all speak of insecurity and Death Row Records. But that brushed steel..that classic shape..that clean, eternally fresh-looking "tapisserie"...in simple stainless on a bracelet, they're all stunning. I'll be lining up behind Stitchy...one day...

All sports watches have their fans and haters. I like the original RO line of watches, but I don't like the Offshore models. I don't care for their use of rubber, carbon fiber (politically correct term for expensive plastic), or the countless numbers of limited edition ROO's they roll out simply because 3-6 months have passed since their last limited edition. However, I may be biased as I don't like rubberized/plastic watches be it ROOs, Hublots, or GP Laureatos. In addition, while I like the Nautilus 5711 and 5712/A1, I don't like the Nautilus Chronograph at all, and when it comes to VCs I don't care for any of their current Overseas models. I preferred the previous model, although its bracelet had issues with links locking up. The new one I find bloated, and although the bracelet doesn't have any issues with locking up, I find it a garish and too blingy. But no watch can be everything to everyone.

IMHO, like it or hate it, the RO was the first of its kind. Others followed, some more successfully than others, but the RO is iconic as it carved out a niche that had never before existed. Its always easier to see what has worked for others and then head down the same path. I believe the saying goes, "Second place...its the first loser!" Just kidding, there are some great watches that followed the RO, such as PP's Nautilus, VC's 222 and first Overseas, and IWC's Jumbo SL Ingenieur.

 

[EmJay]



Don - that vintage Omega two-hander is sweet. EmJay - very nice Stowa. If they made a no-date version of that watch, I would have a hard time resisting.

I have actually found myself favoring watches without a date complication as well. The JLC ultra thin that I am currently contemplating doesn't have one, and the overall look of the dial is just cleaner. I don't even bother setting the date on most of my other watches nowadays.

 

[RogerP]

Quote:
You absolutely can't go wrong with that JLC.