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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    here is the line from the rubi page

    [​IMG]

    the jewels, are the red (usually ruby, or synthetic rubies) jewels you see below, in the watch movement. the blue, are the heads of blued steel screws. the jewels are placed at points in the movement, where there are gears that would create significant friction. and using a hard jewel, prevents the friction from damaging the movement. see below. also, i think that reads 52 jewels, on this lange. that is far above the norm.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2012


  2. Hampton

    Hampton Distinguished Member

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    Aha now I understand! Thanks.
     


  3. Fang66

    Fang66 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Isn't 17 jewels all that is needed for functionality and the rest are showmanship?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2012


  4. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    my pleasure!


    from what i understand. yes and no. for a simple 3 handed watch, i imagine 17 is enough to cover the main areas of friction. beyond that, i would say is a mixture of showmanship, and being extra careful and placing jewels in places that have less friction that could technically do without the jewel. however, as you add complications and components to a watch, you add gears and points of tention, as those are added, more jewels are required as well, to compensate for the added tention areas.

    so is my understanding.
     


  5. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    this is correct.
     


  6. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    Tank Francaise today....I took it off the bracelet and have been wearing on a faux-croc strap:

    [​IMG]

    Also just noticed that I must have set it incorrectly this morning as it's the afternoon of 24th and the date apparently changed at noon (DOH!)
     


  7. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    be careful. theres a HUGE market for knockoff vintage breitlings. ive handled some that were absolutely gorgeous. but fake as pam andersons tits.
     


  8. Keal19

    Keal19 Senior Member

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    Thanks for the kind words. And derekS, as for my views on the Cellini, I've found it to be a pretty good watch for what I paid, which is £1700, it has kept good time and I've received plenty of compliments whenever I have worn it and most presume it to be considerably more expensive than what I paid. My only complain is that it is pretty small, even for my slight wrists, so below is a comparison with my Cartier Rotonde Solo which is 35mm, so it's pretty small!
    [​IMG]
     


  9. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    wow. that is small! would be great as a dress watch/formal.

    great cartier as well.
     


  10. Dino944

    Dino944 Distinguished Member

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    The TF is a very versatile watch. My wife has one and she loves it. I think it would be a better seller with men today if they increased its size a bit. Enjoy it!
    Lots of people presume presume a Rolex is more expensive than it really is. My secretary thought when I bought a SS Submariner in 2005 that it was $10K. I had to tell her it was less than half of that. As for the size, when your Celline was new in the early 90s lots of companies were still making dress watches that were less than 34mm including Patek, VC, AP, and JLC to name a few. There were very few watches that were over 40mm in the early 90s. As far as I recall there was the AP Royal Oak Offshore, IWC's Doppel Chrono, and Panerai...most companies followed with larger watches in the late 90s or after 2000.
     


  11. Keal19

    Keal19 Senior Member

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    DerekS, your right it is very small but luckily my slight wrists make it the perfect dress watch for me.

    And Dino- your right, that's why I tend to prefer vintage watches, it's almost become a race to bring out the largest watch! Which IMHO is why the AP Royal Oak is such an iconic watch because as far as I'm aware it was the original larger watch and one I'd love to own!
     


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    yeah, we made sure off it. all legit. original box and papers, serial numbers, patina on dials.....
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2012


  13. zippyh

    zippyh Distinguished Member

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    That Rubinacci looks like an ETA 2892 (or similar) with a chrono module. They're often advertised as having high jewel counts because they count the jewels on the module as well.
    This Tudor has a similar layout with 45min totalizer at 9 and small seconds at 3. It has a ETA 2892-A2 movement with the Dubois-dépraz 2054 chronograph module.
    http://watchlords.forumotion.net/t9173-tudor-heritage-chronograph-a-not-so-mini-mini-review
     


  14. Warren G.

    Warren G. Distinguished Member

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    heh, you was close tho.

    The movement is $469 alone.

    http://www.ofrei.com/page240.html


    If you guys are curious about ETA movement price. Also keep in mind, watch companies obviously buy these movements in bulk (probably a lot cheaper.)

    http://www.ofrei.com/page_183.html
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2012


  15. Dino944

    Dino944 Distinguished Member

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    Hi Keal,

    I think there is a "Sweet spot" for watch sizes. Too small and it looks like you are wearing your girlfriend/wife's watch...too large and it looks cartoonish. Also sadly, the bulk of really large watches I see people wear are rarely very nice...makes me think some people buy a really big watch even if its not a great watch or even if it doesn't need to be as large as it is, simply for attention. Afterall, how can people not notice something the size of a tuna can strapped to their wrist.

    I agree completely about the AP Royal Oak. I've never really been interested in the Offshore models, I've always favored the original design. I've looked at them for years, and roughly 2 months ago I just picked up a new AP Royal Oak 15202 (based on the original design). Its a really fantastic watch. I hope one day you will be enjoying one on your own wrist.

    Although, I'm generally not excited about ETA movements, one thing to consider is that different watch companies buy the movements in different states of completion and finish. Less expensive watches may have a movement thats completely assembled, has a raw finish, and it just get thrown into a case. Other companies like Cartier (when they use an ETA ...in say a Santos Galbee or Tank Francaise) use an ebauche which is largely parts and they assemble it and finish it to their own standards. On higher end IWCs using ETA movements as a base, there are a significant number of modifications and changes in quality and finish (such that its hardly like what they start with)...this is particularly true of the old DaVinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. So even among watches using ETA movements there are different levels of involvement in the assembly and finish of the movement.
     


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