Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
This one today.
I just got a watch that looks a lot like this, though cheap/common enough to not belong in this thread: an Orient ER24004B "Bambino" automatic.
Ah thats funny that you looked at the VC Historique 1968. I was fairly certain that I wanted a RO (either a Jumbo or chronograph), but on my last visit to NYC, I went to the VC bouttique and tried on the Historique 1968, the 1955 ultra thin, and the 1954 Aronde (not an ultra thin watch by any means but still interesting). The 1968 a very nice piece, but I thought the price was rediculous. Years ago I was a huge advocate for VC as they made some truly beautiful watches, with great movements, and at a great price (considering who their competion was/is). I own 2 VCs that I purchased new in the last 10 years and I really think they fit the descriptions of being truly beautiful, having great movements, and being a tremendous value. Unfortunately, I think many of their designs today are not that attractive and their pricing is rediculous. The only models I really like from them these days are from their Historique line. Years ago a friend who ran an store that as an AD for VC, Lange, GP, VC, Panerai, Zenith, Bvlgari, Jacque Edroz, and Rolex told me wait and see VC prices are going to become crazy. He had attended a meeting and people at VC were annoyed that dealers were discounting their products such as the VC Historique Chronograph, while the Patek 5070 chronograph was often selling above list price (both were using the same Lemania base at the time). The VC chrono was a freakin bargain with a list price at $17,000 (before any discounts) while the Pateks were over $30K. What happened, VC replaced the Historique Chronograph with the Malte Chronograph (which used the same movement as the prior chrono, they put it in a larger case, similar in size to Patek's 5070) and then they cranked the price up o $34,000 and the damn thing wasn't as good looking as the Historique Chronograph that it replaced. And keep in mind gold prices were not as insane as they are today. Anyway, the VC 1955 didn't interest me in person, and although I liked the 1968 (although not thrilled with a round movement in a square watch), the 1968 was so flat and large for a square watch that I didn't think it looked great on my wrist, and the entire time I looked at it I could not help thinking it should be about 1/2 of what its list price is.
I think of the ones you've narrowed it down to you have some nice choices with the AP Jules Audemars and the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950. I think stylistically the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 is really quite striking in terms of design. I love the lugs and dial! My reservation with that piece would be what is their distribution chain and service center like. A brand like AP, I know I can count on for parts and service. A friend of mine bought his wife a watch from a smaller more obscure brand and when she damaged the bezel, it was a nightmare getting a replacement part. I just don't know too much about Parmigiani Fleurier, but if they have a service center set up in the US and you know other people have had good experiences with them, then I would say its a tough choice between that and an AP JA.
Good luck on your research and let us know what you decide. Either way I'm sure you will enjoy whichever ultra thin you choose.
The RDM is a beautiful watch, and would be a sensible trade if you decided to get something with a few more functions than the MC. Still the MC is clean and classic in design, and a great watch.
Hi Stitch, yes later on Patek did release one or two rectangular watches using rectangular movements that were quite pricey (although nothing comes cheaply from Patek). However, I believe that with their more "affordable" rectangular watches continued to use round movements.
No, not an ebay purchase. These watches were produced around the end of 2006 early 2007. I kind of decided late in the game mid 2008 that I wanted the Cartier Tank XL, and production of that model was limited to 200 in rose gold and 50 in platinum. By the time I went to my local Boutique (by about 2004/2005 the Collection Privee watches were longer available through ADs, only Cartier Boutiques), it had already sold its 1 alotted Tank XL. So they checked their computer to see if any other Boutiques had one. So while I was there they discovered their was one left and it was in North America, and they offered to bring it in for me to consider. So I ended up purchasing the last new one that was available. In the end, looking at some of the prices of watches today and what it offers it was really a steal !!!
fully agree. couldn't wear it with anything than the bracelet, though.
any opinions on the Tudor Black Bay?
Very nice! Definitely my favorite BP.
Overall, I like it. In recent years sometimes I have thought their collections are all over the place and lacking a theme or direction. In addition, sometimes have mixes feelings about companies resurecting vintage design elements. Some times it can cheapen a watch and make it look like a company is just trying to cash in on signature items from valuable vintage pieces, but so far I think they did a pretty good job with it. I'm curious to see one in person before making a final judgment about the burgandy bezel and "gilt" looking dial. I'm not sure how much I will like the gilt looking dial, but the hands are welcomed signature item from Tudor. Are you considering one?
Yes, I think it's definitely a great looking watch.
dino, thank you for your thoughtful insight. It's always a pleasure to read.
I'm not exactly in the market for a new watch. I stumbled across an ad in a magazine and the quoted price of € 2400,- seemed pretty reasonable. did a little research on my own. actually, i like the burgundy bezel. in a watch forum some dudes complained about the flat back, which tends to stick on your skin. wow, anyway.
I should pay a friend a visit, who is AD for Rolex and Tudor.
Would never in a million years consider Hublot, but randomly wandered in to a local watch place, saw this and fell in love:
Nowhere near the somewhat oversized dimensions of the regular Big Bangs, it looks surprisingly understated and classy in person. Hmm. Thoughts?
I think for the right price it could be a great watch. I personally hope its successful for them particularly in the US, as I think it would be great for Tudor to have a strong presence here in the States. As mentioned, overall I like it and I look forward to seeing it in person. Hopefully, it will be as good looking if not better in person. Keep us posted on your research and let us know if you consider pulling the trigger on one.
I'm not really an Hublot fan. I don't like the Big Bang watches at all, but this one is a little bit more tone down and I find it less of a copy of the RO Offshore that some of their wathches. Like anything I'd have to see one in person to make a judgment,but its probably not something I'd choose.
sure, will do. not very likely that I pull the trigger this year, though. price is attractive, should hit the U.S. around 3k.
I had the same reaction to the price of the Historique watches and the other VCs I have seen. In the UK the 1968 will run you a cool £27,060. I suppose I don't love the 1968 enough to pay that kind of money for it. I am also not entirely convinced by the tone of the gold; I'd prefer a slightly pinker/reddish gold rather than the yellower tones of the Historique.
The Parmigiani is also lovely, but I had similar concerns about dealers and servicing. I live in northern Scotland, and I would have to go to London to find a Parmigiani AD. When you plan on owning a watch for at least 30 years or more, you do think hard about whether or not it will be easy to maintain in the long-term.
By contrast I have very little to complain about the AP JA Extra-Thin and everything to like. I like the mixture of polished and brushed finishing; the size of the case really gives the watch serious wrist presence, the sunburst dial is subtle yet radiant, and I have a good relationship with an AD. When my RO has needed servicing in the past I have always found the staff that I have dealt with to be attentive, polite and competent. No complaints. I also like that AP is still independently/family owned and not part of a giant conglomerate.
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