1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

Tags:
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    

    +1 gajillion. I landed in Singapore 9 hours ago and have already seen 3 ill-fitting Big Pilots... the look is retarded. I love the aesthetics of the Big Pilot (particularly in white gold with rhuthenium dial), but with 6.75" wrists I can't pull it off myself (not that this stops me from strapping one on every few months!)



    Dino, I agree with everything you've written, and from your question a few days ago I'm absolutely still in awe of the proportions, understated presence and finishing of the 15202. Regarding the 15400, however, my own preference would be to downsize to the 15300, dozens of which are floating on the market at any given time at attractive pricing. Not only do I feel that 39" is a more timeless size for the Royal Oak, but the 15300 also has a more harmonious dial layout given that it's the same movement - but in the 39" case for which it was intended - as opposed to the 41" of the 15400. In principle and in practice, I just haven't seen very good examples of leveraging the same movement into a larger case, at least where apertures and subdials are involved. Just my $.02...
     
  2. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

    Messages:
    597
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2011
    Like I said, I wouldn't buy any of them but based purely on aesthetics I'd probably go for the Portuguese (tho I didn't mention in my previous post that I think its overpriced).

    The fundamental issue is this: I don't see the justification to spend so much an ETA powered movement when I could go buy a Sinn for the same aesthetic. Frankly I wouldn't buy ANY IWC pilot watch--I'd rather get a Stowa Flieger (no logo no date) and call it a day.

    As for the dornbluth, the 99.4 is a good stand in for the Portuguese

    EDIT: I also prefer the GO senator observer to the portuguese
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2012
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    BLASPHEMY!!

    here is another rather simple AP i like, btw.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2012
  4. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

    Messages:
    1,630
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    Location:
    right here, for now
    that's gaudily interesting. good work
     
  5. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

    Messages:
    14,340
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2008
    Location:
    VA
    

    Wow, you're certainly the minority. That watch is a classic. And stunning. And extremely well made.
     
  6. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,120
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2010
    Again I know I'm in the minority here about AP - truly great watches and craftsmanship. I just can't really get into them, though if I ever see one in the wild then I automatically think "damn, that guy is ballin'" (in a good way..) I actually like some of louder in your face ROOs like the Volcano, Bumblebee and End of Days. I think it just works with the case design and find them very interesting. I also like the Jules Verne Chrono (drool) but my wife would leave me if i tried to buy that now.

    I'm a huge IWC fan, and I have the 5001 and 5004. I admit the IWC deployant is not the best fitting design for my wrist, but I love the dials of both.

    Differences make the world more interesting, no?

    Rich
     
  7. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    That is a truly great watch with a, to my taste, awful dial. I would love to see Rolex tone down the design so the dial is less crowded and eliminate some of that accreted Rolex branding and nomenclature. The one thing I love are the skeletonized hands. But otherwise, most of the design features make the watch less readable and more confusing.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2012
  8. johanm

    johanm Senior member

    Messages:
    670
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2010
    
    Guys, thanks for taking the time to write such interesting and detailed comments. You'll be seeing a wristshot of one of these watches in the next few days. Just a couple of my own thoughts: Big Pilot - Very much a love it or hate it watch. I don't know if I would call it "beautiful" but there is something special about the feeling of strapping it on. Makes me want to do the Flo-rida dance from Tropic Thunder. The Blancpain and Panerai give similar impressions, but in a slightly more restrained way (and I know the Panerai has its own distinct merits). Also I know I'm in a tiny minority, but I strongly prefer the 5009/5004 to the 5002 BP. The numerals and hands have a quirkiness factor. shared with the Panerai aesthetic, that I think is crucial for this type of watch. If you're going to have a silly jumbo clock on your wrist, I think it's essential to have a sense of humor about it. Really don't understand people who insist on staying faithful to the Nazi fighter pilot aesthetic in this context. Tropic Thunder dance: Portuguese - When handled in real life, this one definitely seems to be a notch below in terms of finishing compared to the others on this list. The one standout feature, however, is that it's got one of the most beautiful dials that I've seen on any watch, ever. Each detail, from the traintrack hash marks to the applied numerals, to the hands and to the subdial placement, is absolutely perfect. And the glossy black dial is positively radiant. Of all the watches on the list, this one gives me the most pleasure to stare at straight-on. Royal Oak - This one was originally not on my radar. I went to the AD to browse PAMs and IWCs, and only tried this and the Blancpain as an afterthought. Of all watches that I've ever seen, this is the one for which pictures do the least justice. The finishing detail on the case, bracelet, and tapisserie dial is seriously breathtaking. Putting it on, I forgot about my previous misgivings of the watch being a gimmicky alternative to the time-tested conventional watch format (round dial, thin bezel), and rather appreciated it entirely on its own terms. This is just a dazzling piece of wrist jewelry. On another note, I've given a lot of thought to the 15300 vs 15400 debate and though I'm inclined to defer to the WIS connoisseurs on most topics, as with the Big Pilot this time I am in the minority. I understand the point about the small movement, but the 15400 corrects 3 flaws that really sour me on the 15300 - (i) the AP logo at 12 o'clock hash mark, which to my mind is the wrong place for such graphics, (ii) the lack of a hash mark at 3 o'clock and resulting asymmetry, and (iii) the white date marker, which to me is something that really undermines the sophistication of the dial. Also, the dial/bezel width ratio on the 41mm version gives the watch a less sporty, more formal feel (don't know if that's good or bad).
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2012
  9. academe

    academe Senior member

    Messages:
    1,861
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2008
    Location:
    Initium sapientiae timor domini
    

    Next one on my list -- going back and forth between the white gold versus the rose gold (white dial on a brown strap). Not a big fan of the rose gold black dial version.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    usually i like a white gold, but with this i prefer the rose. pics when you kop, of course.
     
  11. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

    Messages:
    377
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
    Dug out the Jo Siffert today :satisfied:

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    Beautiful. My Autavia has the dial colors reversed and a rotating diver bezel (and a red sweep chrono hand). I like your dial colors better.
     
  13. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

    Messages:
    377
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
    

    Please post :) I love Autavias, got three of them ...
     
  14. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    It's somewhere in this thread. I didn't post my own watch, since I never photographed it, but one identical to mine.

    Which others do you have?
     
  15. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

    Messages:
    377
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
    

    Take a pic :)

    I have a manual Autavia with Siffert coloring, that is my definite favourite. Cal 72, so it's basically a vintage Daytona (no, it's not :().
    And a silver dialled auto. Pretty rare, I see it much less often than the Siffert. Still usually a lot cheaper.

    Autavias are what got me started collecting vintage. Awesome 70s racing aesthetics at reasonable prices :slayer:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Nice. I have a Minerva Cal. 72 somewhere. I don't know why I never wear it. It is pretty simple without a racing bezel.

    I will add the Autavia to the list of things I should photograph, but now finding that Minerva has jumped in priority.
     
  17. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

    Messages:
    1,433
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2004
    Location:
    Texas
    There's your answer, right?

    When it comes to the watch game, it's all about that passion ... and when a specific piece pushes your buttons that way, you're probably going to wind up purchasing it sooner or later regardless. :slayer:
     
  18. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

    Messages:
    597
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2011
    aint that the truth
     
  19. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

    Messages:
    1,433
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2004
    Location:
    Texas
    And those Autavias are sweet!
     
  20. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,662
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    I've worn my 15202 almost everyday since I got it in August, and I love it. Its become my favorite watch and I think its one of the best purchases I've ever made. Admittedly I'm not really tough on my watches. Initially, I wondered about its water resistance, but I have several Rolex watches including a Sub that I would wear for more rugged sports.

    I own 2 VC dress watches already. I liked their dress watches, but of their sport watches the only one I really like is their original 222 (from the late 1970s early 80s). I've never liked the Overseas all that much. The original was decent looking but had lots of problems with bracelet links locking up (a buddy of mine that collected VCs had a chronograph with lots of problems and eventually dumped it). The second generation is just an oversized ugly watch. The case looks lopsided and heavy, and grew in size just to join the "Look at me I have a giant watch club." The dial is ugly on the time only model (the first generation was more sophisticated), the alternating subdial size design of the chronograph is goofy...then there is the gaudy bracelet. No thanks. I spent a lot of time looking at various models of ROs, Overseas, and PP Nautilus. The Overseas just never seemed to have the quality of finish that the ROs or the Nautilus had.

    I'm kind of dissappointed with where IWC has gone in the last 10 years or so.


    Actually, the 2120 and 2121 have been used in AP dress watches for decades. In addition, several VC dress watches have also use/used the 1120/1121 (their version of AP's 2120/2121) in dress watches and sport watches for several decades. Sadly, the current version of the movement in the VC just doesn't look as nicely finished to me as in the AP. Even the rotor in the current VC using the 1120 is not as beautifully finished as it used to be when they used that movement.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by