The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. kngspook

    kngspook Member

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    So, first of all, in any discussion about the "best" anything, you need to define your criteria. For the best watch brand, my criteria is some combination (in no particular order) of craftsmanship and prestige among WISes. I also tend to filter out some of the way smaller independent watchmakers, mostly on the prestige grounds, since they often seem to lack a certain critical mass of regard among the WIS community.

    I disagree. I'd put PP and ALS at the same level, with PP being a bit more of the classic pinnacle, and ALS being a bit more of the new comer/challenger. And I don't think Audemars is in the same class as PP or ALS.

    I also tend to put Vacheron below PP and ALS, though above AP. I do give them some special regard, similar to that which I give to PP and AP -- I sort of view VC as the elder statesman of horology.
     


  2. Looking to improve

    Looking to improve Senior member

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    Not that unique...

    Similar Breguet

    MtB
     


  3. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    No worries, I appreciate your honesty!! I never would have considered JLC without your advice and they've quickly become one of my favorites. I need to spend a day going to each of the dealers to see each model I'm considering rather than looking at pics on my computer.

    I've narrowed my list down to:

    JLC Master Chronograph - black dial
    JLC Master Calendar
    JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon

    IWC Portugese Automatic 7-Day - black dial

    Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH - grey or black dial
     


  4. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    It's certainly very interesting to see people's likes and dislikes and the "ranking" that people give to the various brands.

    For years people used to call Patek, AP, and VC "The Big Three." Many years ago VC was considered the best finished and finest of the three. It also has the distinction of being the oldest continuous watch manuafacturer, having continuously made watches since 1755. However, in the last 50 years or so that perception has changed and many people see Patek as the finest watch from the big three. I think each brand has a great deal to offer. I think maybe on the finishing side of things, Patek may techinally be a bit finer than AP or VC (and I own 2 VC's and Patek isn't really my favorite brand). However, today all watches are so finely finished that it will not affect time keeping. Back in the day, the purpose of finishing parts as finely as possible was to reduce friction, which reduced accuracy of a watch. I think at times AP might fall into second place in the big three due to some of the highly complicated and technical movements they have produced over the years, and maybe also because VC went through a period when they kind of lost their way in terms of having a very disorganized collection, and not having a really recognizable design for a sports watch the way PP and AP did.

    As for the Royal Oak, love it or hate it, was the original luxury sports watch in steel. Once it started to catch on, PP followed with the Nautilus, VC with the 222 (which evolved into the Phideas and then the Overseas), and IWC's Jumbo SL Ingenuir. It should be noted that the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and 222 were considered by some as entry level watches for theses brands. Also, the original RO, Nautilus, and 222 used a very thin JLC movement cal 922, which JLC never used in any of its own watches. Patek stopped using that movement many years ago and has used in house movements in their Nautiuls for many years...although the original with JLC movement are among the most collectible.

    Lange is a great brand, and their quality is said by people far more interested and knowledgeable about watch finishing to be as fine as Patek if not better. I like their Lange 1, but I find many of their other designs a bit dull. I've heard from several people F.P. Journe is on par with Lange, but that F.P. Journe tend to have lots of problems and spend a lot of time going back and forth for repairs.

    JLC and Piaget are probably two of the finest and most under apreciated watch brands. Both make all of their own movements and have supplied movements to other great brands. It should also be noted that for some time AP owned 40% of JLC, although they have since sold it or the bulk of it.

    There are lots of smaller independent brands that make nice watches. Although, I'd be afraid that some brands are so small that if the founder died, or the company closed, you could have trouble getting service or parts years from now. Also, since they have a small following the 2nd hand market could be quite weak resulting in poor resale value if you ever choose to sell or trade one.

    In the end, there are lots of great brands. Patek, AP, VC, Lange, JLC, and Piaget are held in high regard, but there are plenty of great watches from Rolex, Cartier, IWC, GP, Blancpain, Breguet (which some think is on par wiith the Big Three), Zenith, and a bunch of others. As I've said before no one watch can be everything to everyone, so luckily there are lots of choices to fit different tastes, needs, and price points.
     


  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    superb post. the bold is what i was referring to in my previous posts. its not necessarily a fact, just something that people had considered for a long while. its not to say that it cant change, or that other watch companies cant or dont make watches just as fine. its just something people say, whether or not one agrees is just a matter of taste.

    and iirc AP sold their entire stake in JLC.
     


  6. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    To me, the AP RO is a very unique model, as I almost like the original RO as much as I dislike anything RO OS.

    My favourite is the original Jumbo, 5402:

    [​IMG]

    which were just paid a pretty good homage by the newly introduced 15202ST

    [​IMG]

    (though I'd prefer the rotor and white date window of the previous 15202ST)
     


  7. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    +1

    I'm a big fan of the original ROs and I think the new one is 15202ST is a handsome watch. But I've never liked the Offshore models.
     


  8. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    I think the best way to put it is: I can see how the RO is interesting, simply just not my steez. Fair enough. ROO on the other hand...OI.
     


  9. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    +1... I just don't dig it either.... Great post there Dino! Thx.
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    for me, there are so many different RO/O models out there i cant really paint them with one brush. some i like, some i hate and others im indifferent to. i think if i had a yacht and used it, it would be a cool watch to wear whilst doing my richie rich sporty sportsman activities.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    because im bored. here are some watches i really want.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  12. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    stitchy you read my mind! I like all of those but especially the ALS and JLC... nice picks (& pix)!! :nodding:
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    :fistbump: we can be "friends" ;)
     


  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I like the original ROO rubber models - I could never wear them but I like them on their aesthetic merits. Now, the crazier derivations and numerous limited and special editions that came later... some carbon fiber here, horned gator there, green, yellow and red... not a fan
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    so these are what are making people turn away from AP then?

    to be fair im not a fran of these either, and they appeal to some, but it doesnt change my opinion of AP on the whole.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2012


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