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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    Which one, the chrono that looks like the Striking Tenth cept in 38 mm with a date window at 4oclock or the other dressier looking chrono?

    Totally agree with in stitches here. Your mind will play tricks on you. There will be watches that make a lasting impression, and others will be a passing fad. It's often hard to know which is which. If you give it time though, things will become clear.

    For obvious reasons, I still say JLC Master Series [​IMG]

    Sidenote: in stitches avatar is both mesmerizing and hilarious
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2012


  2. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    yes and yes.... seems once a week I get that "distracted" wanting of a certain watch only to realize that it's more of a passing lust than a full-blown love affair. I guess my lust vs. love affair conundrum is only limited by my willingness to finance it! :nodding:
     


  3. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    To a point yes, but even if you had the money to satisfy all your whims, there is a diff between the watches you keep and the watches you trade, or the watches you wear and the ones that stay in their box day in and day out.
     


  4. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    I don't know Stitchy. I've always been a fran of the double deployant. Bought one from Bob over at Mywatchmaker and its been stellar.
     


  5. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    At first, I was looking at IWC & Zenith until you guys mentioned JLC. I really like the Zenith and JLC because they make their own movements and the watches are smaller 38-42mm and not very well known to the general public.

    My #1 watch is the IWC 7-Day Automatic in white gold with charcoal grey dial but its way out of my budget...for now.

    If I can get a good deal on the used JLC Master Date, around $4K, I'll bite. I would prefer new but I'm not a fan of the moon function and it seems as though every JLC has the moon function. I have no idea what purpose it serves. No offense intended!!

    I really do like the Master Calendar is still an option but I have not been able to price one....I know it has the moon function but its a beautiful watch.

    Zenith, known for its movements in the Rolex Daytona, is making a comeback and their prices are within my budget and I can get a stainless steel bracelet. I really like the El Primero 36,000 VPH and the El Primero Captain Chronograph.

    I doubt I would be dissapointed with any of them...it all comes down to price. The Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH with stainless steel bracelet retails for $8,600 and leather strap is $7,600 if I can get an AD to knock off 20%, I'll pull the trigger. The El Primero Captain Chrono is a little less expensive so we'll see what the AD have to say.

    El Primero 36,000 VPH
    [​IMG]

    El Primero Captain Chronograph
    [​IMG]
    Here's a chart that I thought was interesting. Changing Appetite for Luxury Watches

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012


  6. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Cylon, that is stunning! Very elegant and clean design, and their movements are always a pleasure to see.


    In Stitches, part of the change in the deployant clasp design may have been due to complaints it either fit comfortably or it did not, there was no in between. It was acutally the same design that Lange was using also (when people opted for their deployant). I know many people had to have the strap & clasp turned so it opened from the other direction for a better fit on older JLCs and Langes.
     


  7. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I like the Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH in the top photo. I prefer its chunkier case lugs, crown and pushers.
    As for the movement, yes an El Primero was used in the Rolex Daytonas from around 1989-2000, but it was a significantly modified movement. Most notably the rate of VPH was slowed from 36,600 to 28,800, and there were suposedly more than 100 modifications to the movement before it went into a Rolex. Hence, its fairly different from the El Primero found in Zeniths. Brands like Ebel, also used the El Primero, but I do not think they made any substantial changes to the movement. A friend of mine has had a Zenith chronograph with El Primero movement for at least 5 years and he is very happy with it.

    My only issue about Zenith, is if you are going to buy it, make sure you love it. Its not as well known as JLC or IWC, and I think it would be tougher to get a good price for if you want to sell or trade it someday.

    Good luck and let us know what you decide.
     


  8. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    Don't worry, none taken [​IMG]

    It's a really good question though.

    I’m sure if you were to ask people on the street their opinion of the best complication on a watch, chronograph would most likely come out on top. I’d wager that’s because aside from those of us who like watches, the only time you ever hear about watch companies in general is when they plaster their “official timekeeper” status at various major sporting events--watches are important to us nowadays so we can enforce the rules and/or measure competitive sport, and who the hell doesn’t like the Superbowl or the Olympics?!

    Things like a moon phase complication strikes us as quaint, odd or even utterly useless because we don’t really remember what purpose they serve, but it’s really at the very heart of timekeeping. Rather than try to write it myself, I found a quote that sums it up perfectly:

    “Time keeping and construction of calendars are among the oldest branches of astronomy. Up until very recently, no earth-bound method of time keeping could match the accuracy of time determinations derived from observations of the sun and the planets. All the time units that appear natural to man are caused by astronomical phenomena: The year by Earth's orbit around the Sun and the resulting run of the seasons, the month by the Moon's movement around the Earth and the change of the Moon phases, the day by Earth's rotation and the succession of brightness and darkness.” (http://www.maa.mhn.de/Scholar/times.html)

    We have, by and large, forgotten that connection with nature. Insofar as the calendar system is considered a standalone abstract entity, the moon phase is considered an anachronism. I guess that’s precisely what appeals to me: that connection with the history of timekeeping from its earliest beginnings. Nowadays we may get excited about a special edition in platinum, or debate the virtues of plastic or sapphire crystal, patina on a dial, or an increase in case size from 40mm to 42mm; but that little moon reminds me of so much more.

    Anyway, this all probably sounds really douchey and pedantic so I’m gonna stop. Not trying to say YOU MUST LOVE THE MOONPHASE, just trying to explain why I like it [​IMG]

    As a final (and probably simplest) note: I’m Muslim so tracking the lunar calendar remains important to me. I honestly can’t wait to see Ramadan approaching on this little watch of mine.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012


  9. Hayward

    Hayward Senior member

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  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    :fistbump: take that haters!


    the double deployment clasp may very well be more comfortable, ive never had the single so i cant really say. but their single was hella nicer and im sure once the watch has been worn enough and the leather softens up it would be fine. even if they made the change for comfort, they could have made it with a nicer finish imo, its pretty weak sauce for me. but, its just a clasp, and i love my JLC, so its not really a big deal. plus i got a sick deal on mine.


    pretty sure IWC makes some of their movements. might want to check on that.

    while not very popular or useful to most, its actually a very cool and complex complication when its done to be accurate for hundreds of years.


    while they are all great choices, and zenith is a fine watchmaker, i still lean towards the others. good luck deciding. hey, you might find yourself on the right side of a windfall, and get them all, and more!
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    likely true. and while there is also a great deal that goes into a properly functioning chronograph, and one that doesnt affect the time keeping of the watch, it is no doubt a true "complication." still there are so many other amazing complications that people are just unaware of, and thus cant appreciate. its a shame.
     


  12. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    thx Cuttingboard.... interesting info in that link and I'm a bit surprised by the data.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012


  13. Savile Row

    Savile Row Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    The Orient was purchased in 1991 from a street merchant in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia. Yes, it runs counter-clockwise.
    Quite the conversation piece.

    Ciao !
     


  14. Savile Row

    Savile Row Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    The Orient was purchased in 1991 from a street merchant in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia. Yes, it runs counter-clockwise.
    Quite the conversation piece.

    Ciao !
     


  15. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Hi In Stitches,

    My father has a limited edition JLC with the original style deployant that you like, and a Lange 1 with the same style deployant. He bought both watches in 2004, and the comfort level of the deployant has nothing to do with the leather (croc straps) they come on softening up. He got both on a short strap so the strap fits properly but they just do not fit a lot of people's wrists comfortably, unless removed and reversed to open in the other direction. That may not be the entire reason for changing the deployant, but it may be part of it.

    Yes, IWC does make some of their own movements. However, many use an ETA or Valjoux 7750 as a base movement.
     


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