The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[antikantian]



Watches only started getting big in the last decade or so, and we're already seeing the trend moving back towards moderately sized watches.

I think the precursors to the trend towards larger timepieces started earlier than the last 10 years. Patek introduced the 43mm Nautilus in 1974(?), and the original Gerald Genta AP Royal Oak was first produced in 1970, with the Royal Oak Jumbo appearing in 1977(?). The first appearance of the Royal Oak Offshore was at Basel in, I want to say, 1993(?). Also, and this is clearly a unique watch with a specific purpose, but the first IWC Big Pilot (52 TSC) appeared in 1940 and was 55mm (although the line of Pilot's watches that were introduced later were more reasonably sized). I'm not sure how big the original Portuguese was, but the first iteration came in 1993 as well.

While horological history is littered with larger watches, I do agree that the vast proliferation of the gargantuan case only came recently. The largest automatic movement, IWC's Calibre 5000, was first introduced in 2000, which, incidentally, coincided with the Richemont takeover. The larger watches have their place, but I certainly agree that a manufacturer's overall collection should strike a size balance. It would be a shame if Patek, for example, decided to increase their watch size across the board.

Just to qualify this, I'm not necessarily a massive watch nut. While I do own some larger pieces, I don't buy based on trends, but rather what appeals to me irrespective of what's popular. My shirt cuffs always cover my watches.

To get back to the p0rn, here are some pics from current or past timepieces from my collection:

 

[Kappelan]



To get back to the p0rn, here are some pics from current or past timepieces from my collection:

Very nice collection

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]

I've been researching this thread and Timezone of course. Can anyone tell me what is the general consensus about which is best or most collectible, or are they all viewed the same. I am specifically asking about these three...

Speedy Pro 3570.50
Speedy Pro 3573.50
Broad Arrow

 

[Newcomer]



Very nice collection

+1, lovely assortment, I am envious!

 

[jhcam8]



+1. I'm all for large watches for utility purposes, but when Blancpain goes from this (40mm):



to this (45mm):



Something isn't right in the world.

On the contrary, the 40mm wears small due to the bezel size, so a larger Blancpain Sport fills a void in the line. The trend in dive watches is somewhat driven by fashion, but a larger size is much better when engaging in water activities, above or under. Some of the examples shown are just cheap fashion watches and aren't germane to this thread.

I've tried the 45mm Omegas and Brietlings and they wear smaller than the size might indicate.

 

[spertia]



I've been researching this thread and Timezone of course. Can anyone tell me what is the general consensus about which is best or most collectible, or are they all viewed the same. I am specifically asking about these three...

Speedy Pro 3570.50
Speedy Pro 3573.50
Broad Arrow

While "best" is subjective, the 3570.50 would be widely considered truest to the Speedmaster legacy, since it most closely mirrors (in design and features) the original moon watch. If/when I finally add a Speedy to the collection, it will definitely be this model.

 

[antikantian]



+1, lovely assortment, I am envious!

Thanks. I'm all for watches big (within reason) and small, but I was really deluding myself thinking I could pull off the IWC Big Pilot at 46mm. It didn't even look great on me after that bottle of Chateau Mouton I traded up for an AP Royal Oak Offshore and this watch wears much better. I think it's probably because the bezel on the Offshore is substantially smaller (I wouldn't mind if AP takes in the lugs a bit, though). I hoping my next purchase will be a Patek 5035 annual calendar, which is a good size at 36(7?)mm. I am trying to resist going big for the next purchase, although the 42mm IWC Portuguese Perpetual I is very tempting. I really want a Patek perpetual, but I have to balance my love of watches for my love of clothes

Two shots from WAYWRN:

This BP does push it a bit, to be honest (but the overall aesthetic in this shot I think is quite nice).



Is this yfyf sporting the 42mm Portuguese 5001?

 

[impolyt_one]



watch p0rn, indeed.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]



While "best" is subjective, the 3570.50 would be widely considered truest to the Speedmaster legacy, since it most closely mirrors (in design and features) the original moon watch. If/when I finally add a Speedy to the collection, it will definitely be this model.

That's what I was told by an SA and thought to be the case. I do kind of like the idea of the display back and crystal o the 3573 though not sure it's worth that much more. Thanks for the opinion.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]



Thanks. I'm all for watches big (within reason) and small, but I was really deluding myself thinking I could pull off the IWC Big Pilot at 46mm. It didn't even look great on me after that bottle of Chateau Mouton I traded up for an AP Royal Oak Offshore and this watch wears much better. I think it's probably because the bezel on the Offshore is substantially smaller (I wouldn't mind if AP takes in the lugs a bit, though). I hoping my next purchase will be a Patek 5035 annual calendar, which is a good size at 36(7?)mm. I am trying to resist going big for the next purchase, although the 42mm IWC Portuguese Perpetual I is very tempting. I really want a Patek perpetual, but I have to balance my love of watches for my love of clothes

Two shots from WAYWRN:

This BP does push it a bit, to be honest (but the overall aesthetic in this shot I think is quite nice).



Is this yfyf sporting the 42mm Portuguese 5001?

The price of the BP is out of my range and the other pilots seem too small to me. I like their look though. The Chrono is quite thick as well. I think that the portugese is my favourite particularly in black. It's on the list. This was posted previously on this thread.

 

[antikantian]



The price of the BP is out of my range and the other pilots seem too small to me. I like their look though. The Chrono is quite thick as well. I think that the portugese is my favourite particularly in black. It's on the list. This was posted previously on this thread.

Spoiler

The BP was one of my favorite watches just from an aesthetic standpoint. The only reason I bought the BP instead of the Portuguese 5001 was because of the central second hand - being so large, the sweep second is really mesmerizing. The Portuguese is on my short list as well - display back is great with that movement.

Here's a bit more cuff Appreciation. Casual Wednesday for me. Yes, it fits under my cuff even when completely buttoned. I usually have my shirts made with the left cuff slightly larger, but this is OTR T&A.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]



[/spoiler]

The only reason I bought the BP instead of the Portuguese 5001 was because of the central second hand - being so large, the sweep second is really mesmerizing. The Portuguese is on my short list as well - display back is great with that movement.

I agree with your logic.

I have also looked more closely at the Zenith El Primero (36,000 VpH). Much less than the 5001.

 

[impolyt_one]

FWIW a lot of European made OTR shirts have huge cuffs, you can fit any watch under them. Asian-made shirts, OTR or MTM are usually pretty tiny, cuff-wise.

 

[jhcam8]



This BP does push it a bit, to be honest (but the overall aesthetic in this shot I think is quite nice).

I agree, very nice - it's good to have some variety, in sizes as well as brands and models.

 

[junior varsity]



that is a proper sized watch