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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

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    From left to right is Urwerk 102, AP Royal Oak 5402 original series two-tone, Jaquet Droz Grand Seconde Paillonnee
     
  2. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I prefer the 2nd time zone day/night indicator version. I just don't like the date/cut-away III, and I don't love the subdial for seconds sitting so high up on the dial.

    The date is there for the reason its not a pure dress watch, and it will appeal to a larger audience of people that are used to a date window on their watches. As for the date, sorry, but that cut into the III disrupts the dial. Half of a Roman III doesn't make for a symmetric or harmonious dial. Either nix the III completely, or get rid of the date. I think the half of a VI looks better but not great.

    Also, if being technical, I'm not sure you can say they retained a full set of Roman numerals...Its more like we got 10 full romans and 2 halves...so its more like we got 11 Roman numerals [​IMG]

    The basic Drive is already sort of clunky at 11.5mm Not sure about all the details of the 2nd time zone Drive, but that same movement fits in the Rotonde 2nd Time Zone day/night indicator watch and that model is only 11.96mm. So it could potentially be nearly the same size as the basic time/date model Drive.

    Hi Mimo,

    I think Cartier would wonder why I waited so long to write to them about this. Yes, Lange had the first big date in the 1990s, then JLC (who developed it for Lange) started using it, but it started appearing on Cartier models at least 10 years ago on pieces such as the CPCP Tortue 8 Day Reserve and the CPCP Rontonde. Cheers.

    Never really liked the big date on the Overseas, although I think it looked best on their 1st gen Overseas. I like the date at the 4-5 area, just wish they nixed the silly metal outline and made the background color the same as the dial.

    There are folks who already like the newer model so I'm sure it will sell very well. But for folks looking to get a sweet deal on the last of the new 2nd gen Overseas models, this might be the time to start negotiating.

    Breitling also offered steel quartz model loners. My friend got one when his watch went in for service. However, when the strap to one broke, my friend realized he lost in somewhere in Central Park, and then he got hit with a $650 replacement fee on top of getting the watch serviced. He asked if they could just apply that amount as a credit to his making a purchase of another new Breitling from an AD or a Boutique and they said no. I guess if Lange let people keep these so called "lost" steel loaners without charging a loss fee, Lange is far more forgiving than Breitling.

    My friend said next time he'd just buy another watch to wear while his is being serviced, rather than wear a loaner that he could get whacked for if it gets lost. Cheers.
     
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  3. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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    Re: the Cartier Drive, I do believe it's a pretty good effort, and not the worst looking watch in the world.

    But I really have to wonder if this is "just another case shape" from the maison, and for the sake of .... what? ... more differentiation?

    If you think about it, they've already got two rock-solid, absolute icons in the Tank and Santos. Granted, they are both sqaurish / rectangular. And both pure classics, IMHO. (Though even amongst the Tank line itself, there's some options-- with the Tank MC looking quite different from the Solo, for instance.)

    You've got the Ronde offerings, and the Rotonde. Pretty much uh.....round, LOL.

    They launched the Ballon Bleu to much fanfare just a few years ago. I always thought these were maybe aimed slightly more at the ladies, but absolutely are available for men. Bigger, bolder ... with the main attraction being the crown, I suppose. Which I always thought was a strange focus, personally.

    All of the Calibre stuff, especially the ISO-certified Diver that they made such a huge deal about.... and yes btw, it's noteworthy that their newer stuff will mostly have in-house movements. Understood. Big investment.

    Then there's the new Clé design, which is already a little throw-backish (60's - 70's to me, kind of like the Constellation C from Omega). Also, not a bad looking family IMHO.

    So I guess I'm just wondering where the Drive is supposed to fit? (And this is coming from a Roadster owner). As others have pointed out, it is very reminiscent of Piaget and 70's VC. It's not really ground-breaking in that sense. Nor do I see or hear a lot of compelling story/romance behind it, in terms of their marketing. So I'm just not sure that I really "get" this one.

    (Hell, I haven't even mentioned their Pasha and Tortue stuff!)

    Shapes on shapes on shapes....

    EDIT: grammar
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
  4. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Cartier and several other brands have a long history of offering various case shapes for their watches. Look at old advertisements or catalogs from VC, JLC, Piaget, Patek, and others and you will see a variety of shapes. It seems with the revival of interest in mechanical watches, many brands narrowed their focus, as they determined especially among men, that round watches outsell all other shapes by a significant amount.

    I appreciate brands such as Cartier, VC, JLC, and others that with great frequency offer case shapes inspired by their some of their best designs of the past. I can't fault Cartier for offering what may seem like just another shape, because offering a variety of shapes, models, and variations within model ranges is practically within their DNA. Within the Tank family alone there is the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Obus, Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, Tank Guichet, Tank Asymmetric, Tank Francaise, Tank Americaine, Tank Anglaise, etc...

    For some reason, Cartier has more recently focused on driving, with models such as the Roadster and the Drive. However, what is interesting to me, is that neither actually have much to do with driving or making it easier to read the time when driving. In the past Cartier has offered a true "Drivers' watch" which was sort of rectangular with a curved back and intended to be worn toward the side of the wrist so that one could read the time at a glance without taking one's hands off the wheel. There was a limited edition offered through the retired CPCP collection.

    I wonder if certain watches, or perhaps Cartier has been influenced or as @Mimo might suggest been infected with the IWCish bug of creating lifestyle products At least with Cartier several collector friends have not been pleased by any of the more recent releases and are now focusing on past offerings.

    As for the Ballon Bleu from what a friend in the industry told me, although there are larger sizes for men, its a model that sells predominately to women.

    I don't think the Drive is a bad watch, so much as a missed opportunity. In addition, while its great that they have in house calibers such as cal 1904, stuffing that movement into everything one designs does lead to compromises in terms of dial layout. Perhaps the Drive would have avoided some compromises and been a bit more pleasing to the eye if they had borrowed a a base movement from one of their sister companies. I think the Drive has potential, but for me they missed a few things.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
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  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Considering their sales volume, I think they're probably got room for another shape in there. Did someone here say over half the Richemont group's turnover? Bearing in mind the whole Montblanc and Dunhill brands and eight other watch houses including hot sellers like IWC and Panerai as well as the big cheeses ALS, VC, JLC...that's a lot of stuff they're selling.

    And I like this shape. Perhaps it's not especially distinctive or interesting, but I like cushions in general and this one's perfectly pleasing. I just don't like either watch that much. Certainly not eight grand much. VC's Harmony, Piaget's Emperador, Dubuis's Monegasque, heck, the Panerai 1940s...lots of more appealing cushions in their stable I think - and some steel ones in the price range, too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
  6. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Nice thing about Cartier is you will be able to knock that $8k MSRP to $5-6k, where it becomes a more attractive offering. Not that I am interested.
     
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  7. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Had to (unfortunately) return the Roger Dubuis. Total bummer, but there were some issues. The retailer has been great about the entire process, so kudos to them.

    Have something else coming though... :devil:
     
  8. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    What issues? Say more...
     
  10. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Hmm... well that's a rather large box...

    [​IMG]
     
  11. slickslickslick

    slickslickslick Active Member

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    Well, for starters, it's a Roger Dubuis.

    To what did you upgrade, Mr. Moo?
     
  12. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    I will say that the RD was a lovely, lovely watch. It was from their Sympathie line from the early-mid 2000's, so it was much more understated than some of their current offerings. The movement decoration and finishing was sublime.

    ...

    But as for the new one...

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    Did you get the iwc pilot? That's what I'd get from them :)
     
  14. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    They have maybe 3,459,019 different pilot models. :crackup:
     
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  15. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    idk iwc models, just googled and found name, here is what i am referring to one of these...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    lmk if i guessed right
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2016
  16. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Well, those look like some of their ceramic "Big Pilot" models. Mine is not ceramic or from the "Big Pilot" range.

    Here's a big-ish hint :D (click for bigger version)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2016
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  17. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    You travel with those? Am I the only one who chickens out and travels with a cheap watch :)
     
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  18. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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  19. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Good guess, Keith - but not it. :)

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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