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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Thanks! I got the Tortue Monopoussoir in yellow gold. I think the first time I saw it might have actually been in this thread and since then, I was irresistibly drawn to it! I came across a white gold one, tried it on and it seemed to fit perfectly on my wrist. But I preferred it in yellow gold, so went back on the hunt. Finally tracked down the one I eventually purchased. I did as much research as I could on the CPCP watches and came across some of your posts outside of SF - you are a fountain of knowledge! One curious point: my watch, though yellow gold, has a pink gold clasp. I read about other Cartier watches like that (i.e. original Crash) and even platinum-cased watches with a white gold clasp. I was wondering if this is common to CPCP and if yours has a pink or yellow gold clasp.
     
  2. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    Congrats — that's one of my absolute favourite watches. Photos, please!
     
  3. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    Yikes - yes, that's a grail. Pics please.
     
  4. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    I'm gonna regret putting out what's probably an obvious one but what's CPCP?
     
  5. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    ooh! tuning in now: http://www.christies.com/livebidding/index.aspx
     
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  6. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

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    5 people like this.
  7. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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  8. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    CPCP = "Collection Privee Cartier Paris" - a small collection of watches by Cartier that they produced for a few years last decade.

    It was comprised of four of five different models in different cases - a classic "tank", a tonneau-shape, a round case, and a "cushion" shaped case that was rounder than the tonneau and that was called "Tortue" (tortoise).
     
  9. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    It was probably this photo that I posted a while back.


    [​IMG]


    The manager of Cartier in Chicago offered me the watch at a steep discount because it had sustained a huge dent in the case. I passed on the deal, which I kinda regret because I now have a watchmaker who can easily repair such damage. Not sure if they were 'adding' metal to repair cases back then.



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2015
  10. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    Ahhh very interesting. Thanks for that.
     
  11. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    So, your friend who always asks your thoughts about watches asks you about this $650k+ kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2050848594/redefining-italian-luxury-watches/comments

    Apparently, this unique kickstarter-funded project is able to bring you "Italian luxury watches" for $100 by removing the middle men. The movement: Japanese quartz.

    Without sounding like an obsessive hobbyist, how would you urge your friend not to waste his money?
     
  12. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    IMO, it is money well spent if one can satiate their horological wants and needs with a $100 expenditure, for being a consumer of high end watches borders on financial folly. That said, there are certainly better watches to be had for $100.
     
  13. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    I would ask about why he likes that specific watch like how TWAT loves a good story for the reason someone acquires a specific piece. If he mentions something specific and you could point him to another watch with similar characteristics without the kickstarter gamble. Then again T&T mentioned that it is only a $100 gamble so go for it. Some people like a lot of cheap watches instead of 1 larger purchase.
     
  14. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Congrats! That's a fantastic watch with an exceptional movement (cal 045MC was designed by THA). A friend of mine has one in yellow gold and it's absolutely stunning. I love how the curved case just hugs the wrist. As I've said before its one of the few watches that even some friends of mine who are only interested in PP, AP, VC and Lange, have all expressed an interest in obtaining for their collections. The curved case, single pusher chronograph movement, and rich history make it a great addition to any collection. It also recently, made an on line list of 10 under appreciated watches that people should add to their collections before prices start to move north.

    My CPCP Tank XL is pink gold and uses a pink gold clasp. Historically Cartier for some reason has used pink gold deployants on both yellow gold and pink gold watches. Someone once told me they use that because its stronger than a yellow gold clasp, but that sounded like nonsense. I couldn't find anything stating that was accurate, in addition many other companies, Rolex, Patek, AP, VC etc use yellow gold clasps on yellow gold watches. So I still do not know why they use pink gold deployants on yellow gold watches. I have heard some companies do use white gold deployants on platinum watches because gold is more malleable and softer, and the old style Cartier deployants need a bit of flex to make them work properly (the new deployants are different). VC also used white gold deployants on their platinum watches (not sure if they still do). I have a friend who is a big Cartier collector and I will check and see if he has any info regarding why Cartier uses pink gold clasps on their yellow gold watches. Congrats again on a fantastic watch!!! [​IMG]

    edit: A friend reminded me on the yellow gold watches the outside visible section of the clasp should be yellow gold and the inside section is pink. He also said, he was told the inside is pink for the same reason that was told to me, that it is stronger than yellow gold. He also has not been able to confirm if there is any truth to that. Cheers!
    The CPCP line of watches was made from 1998 through 2008.

    In addition, that's a rather oversimplified the description of CPCP. There were more than a dozen cases and more than 10 different types of watches such as time only, skeleton, chronograph, dual time, grand date power reserve, jump hour, GMT, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and minute repeater, in addition to several combinations of these movements. Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2015
  15. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Thanks for the congrats, guys! It sure feels good to bask in anonymous attention! :)

    But seriously, sometimes it is tough to share this hobby (or most of what is discussed here on SF) with friends and family and the warm words I've read in this thread are really great.

    I'll try to take some creative pics and post them, but I fear I may end up posting a boring one.



    I'm not sure if it was your pic that sent me off on the hunt (I recall the watch in another orientation), but oddly enough I do remember your story about the dented case.
     
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  16. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    To be honest, I was not a big Cartier fan in the past (at least for watches), but over the years I started to appreciate the brand after reading more about their history. I also remember a lot of your posts on Cartier.

    I also think some of the Cartier watches are really underrated and I am already considering further additions!

    Ahh, this is what makes your posts here great, Dino! I really thought I was duped and received the wrong clasp, but glad to read it's normal and I wasn't imagining things seeing the "two-tone" clasp.

    Yes, the outer portion of the clasp on my watch is yellow gold and only the inner part is pink. When I went to the shop to inspect the watch, I never noticed the color difference. Later, after I got home, I was like "what the F?" Seemed really strange at the time.
     
  17. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Thank you for your kind words about my post. I'm glad you found the information helpful.

    Much like you, it also took me some time to appreciate Cartier and its offerings. However, with some time and research I developed a strong interest in the brand, and their watches. They have a very rich history and now many of their most iconic designs have been in existence for roughly 100 years. The Tortue is a design that has been in production in some form or other since the late 1912, and your version has an amazing movement. I agree that it is a very underrated and under appreciated brand. Although, that is starting to change with many collectors are going back now and picking up vintage pieces and offerings from the now retired CPCP line.

    I'm glad I was able to confirm that you did receive the correct deployant clasp with your watch. I remember thinking it was odd that they use 2 types of gold for their deployants, but its something distinctly Cartier and they insist it has to do with strength. Interestingly, they developed and patented the deployant clasp sometime around 1910. There are lots of wonderful details and nuances you will discover the longer you wear and look at your watch. I'm sure you know about it, but many newbies are unaware of their "Secret signature on one of the Roman numerals of the dial."

    There are lots of great Cartier models out there and I wish you lots of fun adding more to your collection. [​IMG]
     
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  18. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Am pretty sure from memory (when I was ring buying) that WG is harder than YG, but RG is the toughest of all 3 gold colours.
     
  19. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    You are correct. White gold is alloyed with stronger metals than yellow gold, and therefore is harder and more durable than YG. I did a bit of research and found two articles stating that it is the copper content that makes rose gold the toughest and most durable of the three colors of gold.
     
  20. Viral

    Viral Senior member

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    Dino........i'm in the market for a Tank Solo XL in rose gold.

    What is the difference between yours and the one I am interested in? Is it the movement, price, design - or all the above?

    Any info would be much appreciated!
     
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