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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    They've yo-yoed up and own market a bit. At the moment they seem to be aiming more up-market. It's one of those brands where I like what I see in the adverts and I love all of the history but when I walk into the store, absolutely nothing grabs me, except the odd tie. And it's very expensive. I think it goes down better in the Asian markets.

    The store in Mayfair is in a beautiful building, and there's a great little courtyard out front where you can get a coffee or a beer in the warmer weather. I still preferred the old Jermyn Street store, where you could go in, buy a cigar, and sit and smoke it.

    I have heard that they still do some bespoke leather stuff which is of very high quality, but the OTR stuff - meh.

    The watch that the OP referred to was indeed a reverso movement dressed up in what, at first glance, looked like quite a nice faceted case, but I saw one in the catalogue for an upcoming auction (one of the Knightsbridge ones I think) and I thought it hadn't aged well - it just looked a bit like a cheapo 'brand' watch, and was priced accordingly. Made me feel sad for the movement inside.
     
  2. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I have a Dunhill Cityscape Traveller and my wife has a Facet. The Facet was a lovely design and certainly some models used JLC movements as they have the same owner.

    They used to have a watchmaker on site in Jermyn St and later when they moved to Bourdon House where I had the watches serviced but he is no longer there and watches seem to have dropped from their catalogue.

    The Facet is an often complemented watch my Citysacpe less so.
     
  3. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    So here's a stock photo of the Dunhill watch.

    [​IMG]


    It looks quite handsome, although I recall I looked at one IRL and thought it a tad too chunky. I prefer the Reverso (which I own), although I would give a little credit where it is due to this Dunhill watch, and (going way back) the Baume & Mercier Hampton, for influencing my thinking and steering me in the direction of a rectangular watch, and specifically the Reverso, as my first 'proper' watch.

    I think there's always an issue with luxury non-watch brands producing high-end watches. Notwithstanding the quality of movement, I'd struggle to convince myself that, for example, a Ralph Lauren watch or a LV watch was a good purchase, because the branding can make it look a bit like a 'fashion watch'.

    Here's another example. I think this RL watch is very handsome indeed (I don't know who makes the movement), but I'd see "Ralph Lauren" on there and think "fashion watch". It would actually be a lovely watch if it didn't have "Ralph Lauren" written on it.

    [​IMG]

    Maybe I'm just a snob?
     
  4. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I too would back the Reverso the GRUT is now my go-to watch for office and city weekends.
     
  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Just curious what you mean by having to "be a bit more careful about what is engraved and how?"

    +1

    I like the ads and their history. My father has a bunch of dunhill pipes and used to purchase some of their other products many years ago. They closed their Boston boutique (my nearest shop), I would guess 10-15 years ago.

    Last time I was in their NYC store, they had absorbed/purchased and were using another famous name of the past, Sulka, and were using it to market a few higher end items. However, nothing was truly of interest and for the prices they wanted I would rather purchase merchandise from another company.

    Yes, I remember the old faceted watch with Reverso movement. It just isn't my taste. At the time I thought it looked too much like a fashion watch.
     
  6. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    Well you know, with a Reverso you can wear the engraving on the outside. So, aesthetically, it would need to be able to stand alone.
     
  7. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    +1

    I would much rather go to the source and buy a GP or JLC than a Zegna, Ralph Lauren etc. I suppose there could be die hard Zenga and RL fans who want watches from the same companies they purchase clothing and other products from, but I don't. When I see watches from Gucci, Dior, Chanel I think fashion watch, and I feel the same about RL, Zegna (even if they use good movements). I also find the styles of some of the RL pieces are trying "Too hard" to cash in on vintage designs, when they are a new watch company without any history or significant contributions to the watch world...so it seems a bit contrived to me.
     
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Thanks for clarifying that. A Reverso definitely gives someone a great canvas to work from...you are only limited by your imagination!
     
  9. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    You're right, but as a Reverso wearer I can probably count on one hand the number of times in seven years of ownership that I have deliberately left the engraved side outermost. It just has my initials on. There is no real reason to leave it outwards. If I am doing something that might ding it then I'm not wearing it in the first place. Once or twice I have found myself in an impromptu situation that justifies it, but very rarely.

    So what's the point of it? Well it's great to fiddle with in meetings. Flipping it over and back. And it's nice to know it's there. If it was a wedding-related engraving, then it would be really nice to know it was there. My one reservation when buying it was that I'd never wear it face in, and so what was the point in having the mechanism showing. In real life, you just don't notice the mechanism or the very tiny gap between the back of the watch and the watch itself. And the mechanism is so smooth, precise and secure that a casual observer would never know what it did.
     
  10. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    You know a cynic might say that applies to the whole RL empire...!

    Although in fairness he's been around a few years now.
     
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  11. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    I bought a Reverso UT for cycling to and from the office. The idea was to flip it to save any dings (even though in 30+ years of cycling - and a few tumbles - I've never damaged a watch).

    About a month after purchase I notices a few scratches - on the dial side

    :-/
     
  12. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    Jesus, that's brave. I used to cycle-commute and no way did I wear my Reverso. It went in a little leather box, well packed out, swaddled in clothing, in my rucksack. It was partly the fear of a stack, but also the significant vibration through the bars just couldn't be doing it any good so I thought why take the risk?

    And whatever the steel they use on Reversos, it attracts scatches like nothing else.
     
  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    +1

    He had been around for a while but yes, one could definitely say that.

    Personally, I like the old images in their boutiques showing Gary Cooper, Bogarts, Cary Grant etc wearing suits. Its sort of inspiring when one is looking at say their Purple Label merchandise and you are surrounded by images of the past when leading men looked sophisticated and well dressed, as opposed to today with leading men wearing their best hoodies and flip flops.

    I do think the cowboy American western theme RL sometimes goes for is a bit silly considering Ralph is from the Bronx. Cheers!
     
  14. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    Good point on the vibration - I hadn't though of that. Seems to be OK though (for now).
     
  15. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    All good points, boy there is a lot of love for the Reverso here. Even still, I think I might prefer the MUT moon buy a hair. Luckily I'm not the one who has to decide!


    Anyhow, regardless of the marketing they use to keep up with the times, I still have a great deal of respect for Ralph Lauren as a brand. For an American designer, I think they've kept a pretty good balance between classic and modern styling. I'd go so far as to say RL is my overall favorite American designer.

    But I feel much the same as Dino when I look at watches from any fashion brand. Sunglasses too (they're virtually all made by either Luxottica or Marcolin). In a store full of quality, brand-designed items, these types pieces stand out like the boy who wrote his name on someone else's homework.
     
  16. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

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    Yes, when it comes to the high-end styling, the Purple Label stuff and all of the aspirational photography then I'm Ralph's bitch. I'm an absolute sucker for it.

    Actually, I was over in NYC a couple of weeks ago and dropped into the RRL store on Bleeker Street. Not the Western themed workwear, but the one next door with very limited run vintage-inspired, and sometimes actual vintage, suits etc. It would be quite an investment for the whole look, but I liked what they were trying to do.

    Quite amazing too that they can carry that off, and the really pricey PL stuff - for example the stuff they are selling in the Rhinelander mansion - at the same time as the lower-end stuff which looks like it came from a rummage sale.

    But I'd never buy a RL branded watch.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2015
  17. iLuveketchup

    iLuveketchup Senior member

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    PAM048 today...

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. linstar

    linstar Senior member

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    Grail acquired. A big thanks to Dino and everyone else who helped guide me in searching for my first high end piece. Presenting the APRO jumbo.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    There it is!!

    Congrats!!!
     
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  20. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    ^^ Wow! Congrats, linstar! :D :slayer:
     
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