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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. RFX45

    RFX45 Senior member

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    The blue ones? Yes, the blue is really nice and the green sapphire just looks good with it.

    My AD was trying to do a sales pitch on me saying it's the first one she's got and if I don't get it on the spot it'll likely be gone that day. I return a week later and it's still there. :lol: She was doing the same with the BLNR so I'd buy at retail but it's been sitting on display for a few months now.
     
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  2. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    The blue green/combo is awesome. I guess as far as the orange markers and hands, I like the color together with the blue and green and since I do lean towards the kitch/gauche at times, it appeals to me, but I can see why to others they may be less desirable.

    NIce job playing the SA. :laugh:
     
  3. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Initially, I wasn't a fan of the blue Milgauss, but its grown on me considerably. I like the Milguass, but I have several time only watches so I'd probably rather have a BLNR for the few times when I travel to different timezones. Just my 2 cents.
     
  4. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    When I bought my BLNR, my SA lied to my face but I still wanted the watch. Even though I was on the call list when the first one came in, he never called. I just so happened to wander in to check and they had just got their first one in. I am looking for a new AD when I purchase again but we have some time.

    The Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue has caught my eye lately but not going to pull the trigger anytime soon.
     
  5. RFX45

    RFX45 Senior member

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    BLNRs are nice in pics and even nicer in person. I'm considering one but I am not in a hurry because that cyclops isn't a favorite of mine.


    What do you guys think of Cartier these days? More of a jewelry? I know their in-house movements supposedly really good but they tend to put them in their gigantic watches. Was considering a Tank Solo Large a few years back, even almost pulled the trigger on the quartz version because they looked nice on my tiny wrist, is this a watch you guys would consider these days if you were looking for a tank style watch and the Reversos just doesn't suit you?

    The Rose Gold Tank Louis looks great but for $15k seems a bit high for it.
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I am a big fran of many Tank models, and Dino will be here shortly to praise them at length.

    I tried on the BLNR too and I love it. Would love to have one some day. I also love that Rolex uses a cyclops. I like how it looks and I like the practicality.
     
  7. RFX45

    RFX45 Senior member

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    What's you opinion on Cartier as a brand/watchmaker? Not sure many consider them as a high-end watchmaker anymore, not even lower tier high-end.

    Just from talking to boutique and AD SAs it seems they are trying to be more prestigious and really limit the discount like Rolex has. I think they even pulled all their jewelry from other ADs and are just trying to sell them at their boutiques where discount is impossible to get.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2014
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Cartier is very good watch maker, and has a strong history in the world of watches. People that say its just a jewelry company, are generally people that aren't familiar with the company and their history. They do make several watches with in house movements, and they have made/make some watches that have great movements from outside sources such as Piaget, F.Piguet. JLC, THA etc.

    The Tank is one of the most classic and elegant dress watches. Its been around for nearly 100 years in some form or other. I own the previous Tank XL in rose gold, when it was part of their Privee collection and IMHO, its a hell of a watch, particularly for its price. If these watches were from Patek, AP, VC, or even Piaget they would easily cost between $5,000-10,000 more depending on the brand (especially since the previous movement had an unusual rectangular movement). The current rose gold Tank XL is slightly larger than mine, has a different dial, and different movement, because its an ultra thin case (so now the case back is solid). If you went to an AD, I'm sure they could do much better than $15K (especially since its not a limited production piece any more). IMHO the Tank is quintessential rectangular watch. Lots of great companies have made Tank style watches, but Cartier's is the original. I also love the Reverso, and I'll probably get one at some point as its another classic watch, but for me the Tank was a no brainer.

    I've posted quite a bit about Cartier and Tanks, but I don't want to repeat the same stuff over and over. Do a search and you'll see more info about Tanks.

    The Tank Solo with automatic movement is tough to beat for its cost. Granted, it uses a basic ETA movement, but its a good solid movement and allows the Solo to be so affordable and easy to service.

    There is a new Tank MC some people find it too bulky, but if you want a steel tank with an inhouse movement for under $10K many people like it. I find the subdial a bit large for my taste.

    While they have canceled some contracts with ADs, there are still plenty of Cartier ADs, and they discount.

    Anyway, here are a few quick pix of my 2008 CPCP Tank XL.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2014
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  9. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I know in my mind that they have been watchmakers for a long time, but I still consider them primarily a jeweler, not that that is necessarily a reason not to buy their watches. I do consider them to be a fashion brand, but I do not consider their watches poorly made and highly overprived like many other fashion brand watches, they have a long and venerable watch history and I respect that.

    Im not sure I would ever own one, but I have nothing against them, they dont make any models that make me want to kop kop kop, but that is purely personal preference.

    As to what place they occupy in the market, they really seem to be all over the place, price wise. They have certainly been pushing up market the last 5 years or so, but they did not stop making their bread and butter watches in the low to mid 4 digit range either, which I think is great.

    All things considered, assuming I thought the model was reasonably priced and nice, I would not advise against one if that was what appealed to someone.

    Pics of the models you are leaning towards would be helpful. :)
     
  10. djh

    djh Senior member

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    I traded my Speedmaster 9300 + cash in for a BLNR a week ago, and I'm very happy with my decision.

    The 44.25mm Speedmasters wear incredibly well and smaller than the case size suggest, since the lugs are pretty short. My only complaint about the case is that the bombe lugs don't work as well on a thicker watch. I also felt like for the price, the dial should've had applied indices and nicer hands like in the DSOTM.

    The 8500 and 9300 movements are spectacular and a great value at market prices. My 9300 ran within half a second fast/slow per day over my 6 months of ownership, and the chrono was a joy to use.
     
  11. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    What is CPCP? That is a lovely watch, Dino.
     
  12. bdeuce22

    bdeuce22 Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Great watch! Congrats on your BLNR! You owe us some wrist shots [​IMG].

    Hi Moo,

    Thank you. CPCP stands for Collection Privee Cartier Paris. It was Cartier's high end watch line, which drew inspiration from many of the the famous designs of the past. Watches from this line had a rather limited production, for example my Louis Cartier Tank XL is one of 200 made in RG. They also made 50 in platinum. Most used top quality movements from JLC, Piaget, F.Piguet, THA, and then finished them to their own standards. One or two models also used in house movements. Most also have guilloche dials with a "rose" motif at the center and have the word Paris on the dial much like their original watches did years ago. This collection contained everything from time only pieces, to chronographs, perpetual calendars and minute repeaters.

    This collection was in Cartier speak "Retired" when they introduced their "Fine Watchmaking Collection," which contains all in house movements. However, many avid Cartier collectors I know lament the loss of the CPCP watches and prefer them to what is offered in the Fine Watchmaking Collection. Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2014
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  14. RFX45

    RFX45 Senior member

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    Nice write ups of varying points, thanks. And nice pics Dino.

    I'm considering several, one is the Rose Gold Solo XL. This is about the same price as the TTR1931 I was drooling over a few pages back.
    [​IMG]


    Then for above $10k, the Rose Gold Louis Extra-Flat, I like the extra flat part, ~5mm thick.
    [​IMG]


    And for the cheapest alternative and going with steel, the regular auto Solo XL. I believe this is less than $4k retail these days so as Dino says, not a bad price at all.
    [​IMG]


    I've always wanted to add a rose gold watch though and I feel that tank style might be the best option.
     
  15. djh

    djh Senior member

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    Thanks. It's not on my wrist today but here's a shot I took playing with a loupe and my phone's camera the other day:
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Just so you are aware, the rose gold Tank Solo, does use steel for part of the case. I do not believe its gold plated, but possibly the case back is steel on the Tank Solo. You would need to check on this yourself as I've never looked at that model. However, in the on line description when you click on the word "details" it says case in 18Kt pink gold and steel.

    If you do not have a pink gold or rose gold watch, I highly recommend choosing one. I tend to wear round steel for daily use, but I love having dress watches in both a non round shape and rose gold. Its feels a bit more dressy than if I had a white metal round watch, because its both a change in color and shape. I suppose its like going from a good pair of sneakers to a fine pair of dress shoes.

    Wishing you luck with whatever you decide. Cheers!
     
  17. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    RFX, of the two, I like the Louis more, based solely on looks.
     
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  18. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    +1 The Louis Cartier Tank XL is the classic case that most people think of when they hear Cartier Tank. I also think its cleaner looking without the date and seconds hand. It cost more, but you then get the F.Piguet movement and the entire case is gold (not to mention, it is pretty cool to have a rectangular ultra-think, most ultra thins I've seen in recent years are round).
     
  19. RFX45

    RFX45 Senior member

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    Thanks for the suggestions and the tip about the Solo not being a solid gold.

    Will try and visit the AD today or this weekend and see which ones I can't take of my wrist.
     
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  20. bdeuce22

    bdeuce22 Senior member

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    I'm really really contemplating a Tank Solo XL. In steel though
     
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