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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

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    DS? As in deepsea?

    Either way, I don't see the Yachtmaster as any dressier than a sub.
     
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  2. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    I agree with tifosi in that the YM is not different than Sub, SD, GMT or any other Rolex "tool" watch. You get a little closer with the DJ then finally the Cellini as the Rolex dress watch.
     
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  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    It's not dressier imho - the silver dial would be more obvious for a dress watch than black, but the extra colour takes it back the other way. But if it's not dressier, it is flashier. I think.
     
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  4. clpotter

    clpotter Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I just saw that one posted and wondered what the consensus was around its use as a "dressier" watch, given it's dial color, which I thought gave it a look more suitable for a suit. I understand it's not a dress watch per se, but given the arguments against (and for, in some cases) of wearing a SD or Sub with a suit, I was curious to know everyone's thoughts.

    For a bit of back story, I'm new to the watch game and when looking at making my first real watch purchase, I'm sold on the Sub no-date. The only problem being that I wear a suit and tie to work and worried about this watch's flexibility in those situations. Luckily, I'm not an attorney and my office isn't conservative, so I doubt anyone would even really notice. Not to mention I know a lot of folks on this board wear their dive watches with suits proudly.

    I guess in the end, you have to do what you want and what works for you.
     
  5. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Gotta go with what you want and what works for you:

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. bkotsko

    bkotsko Senior member

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    Gasp
    Are you sure those VC&A cufflinks are ok to wear with that green monster?
    You don't want them to be outclassed by the watch...

    Kidding of course. Looking killer as always Frilly.
     
  7. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    To beat the dead horse of suits with Subs a bit more, I personally don't like the look at all (I actually feel far more strongly than that, but who really cares). That said, I'm likely in the minority here who feel that way, and if I'm in the minority on SF, that means a huge majority of people wouldn't notice or care if you wore a Sub (or Sub like watch) with a suit in the real world. So to stay grounded in reality, I wouldn't let versatility keep you from getting what you want since almost everyone you run in to on a day to day basis won't notice/care (depending on profession I suppose).
     
  8. clpotter

    clpotter Member

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    Yeah, not trying to stir that debate, but your point about others noticing remains true. Thanks for the feedback.
     
  9. zippyh

    zippyh Senior member

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    I'll wear my SD or YM with SC and tie but would go with something else if I were to suit up.

    I think the YM is "dressier" relative to the sub or SD.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I generally do not like Subs with suits, but I would not go so far as to make a rule out of it. This goes for watches and sandwiches.
     
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  11. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Hi CLPotter,

    Personally, I've never thought the Yachtmaster was dressier than a Sub, although I believe as Mimo stated, I think its flashier. IMHO once you are dealing with something that has a rotating divers bezel, its definitely a sports watch. In addition, while I think the steel version with blue dial is handsome, I've never really understood the Yachtmaster's purpose. The Sub is clearly a divers watch, a GMT is a pilots watch or travelers watch, the Daytona a watch for race car drivers etc. The Yachtmaster has never struck me as a true purpose built tool watch.

    I wouldn't have any problem pairing a Sub with a suit. I would probably opt to wear a true dress watch for very dressy occasions, but I have seen attorneys, judges, and other business men etc wear Subs with suits in the past and it looks fine. Depending on your work environment and style of dress, a Sub can be a very good daily wearer. Good luck with whatever you choose.
     
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  12. clpotter

    clpotter Member

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    Thanks, Dino. Never gave much thought to the "purpose" of a YM, although, it is interesting to think about.
     
  13. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Hahah thanks bkotsko. Just as with many things style-related, I think one has to "follow" (or at least demonstrate some knowledge and appreciation) of "classical rules" before tweaking (breaking?) them. So, for the Sub + suit question while it is technically verboten there are plenty of modern occasions IMHO when one can execute it reasonably well: [​IMG] I would personally draw the line with tuxedos and formal evening events though. For those occasions I wouldn't wear a dive watch.
     
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  14. clpotter

    clpotter Member

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    Frills,

    I'm digging that Sub. Do you mind if I ask the year/serial number so I can look into that model a bit?
     
  15. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    114060, it is about half a year old.
     
  16. Hayward

    Hayward Senior member

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    I think the Sub goes with a suit so long as it's one of the previous editions with the slimmer case, and you put it on a strap rather than bracelet. Then again, I'm dovetailing my taste to my personal habits and circumstances with that one.

    The YM pro is definitely a technical watch, albeit one for a very rarified niche. The standard YM is basically a pimped out take on a Diver for folks who want it. In some ways, the case curves of the YM are more interesting than those on the Sub, as is the Microgramma font on the bezel. It would be interesting to see what a YM would look like in steel with a black dial and a black bezel insert.
     
  17. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    (Sorry in advance for the newbie question).

    So, I recently tried on some IWC pilot watches, and while nice, they all seemed really thick to me. Unfortunately, when I was trying them on, I wasn't wearing a long sleeved shirt, so I wasn't able to tell if the watch would fit under a cuff. I don't plan to wear a pilot watch with anything dressy, but they might go under a casual jacket or shirt, and the thickness concerns me. (For reference, it was the IWC Little Prince, ref IW326506).

    Are all pilot watches more or less as thick as IWCs? The sales associate at the store said yes, but I've learned to be careful with SA opinions. I'm also hoping to get a vintage pilot watch, if that makes a difference. Don't know if vintage pieces tend to be thinner than modern ones.

    TIA for any opinions folks can share.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
  18. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I think that's a pretty modestly sized pilot; they're kind of big by definition, and IWC's in particular. There are smaller older models - the Spitfire and Mark XII, smaller overall and a touch thinner (39mmx10mm). But 11mm thick seems pretty standard.

    If you're not wedded to IWC, you could go a lot cheaper, still have the history, and a little smaller with it too: Stowa's Flieger is 40mm x 10mm, and Sinn's 556 39mm x 10mm or thereabouts. There are quite a few Sinns that size.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
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  19. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

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    I've got a IWC 3777, 15mm case thickness (and a little thicker with a NATO strap). Great watch, very happy with it (though I will say it's quite susceptible to dinks, but that's a separate issue and unclear whether it's the IWC case metal or just any watch being used day to day). It's obviously thicker than a dress watch, but (1) if you wear MTM shirts, no problems - just get the cuff made a bit looser, (2) for OTR shirts, it's not so big that the cuff issue can't be frequently addressed by re-sewing the cuff button for a bit more space - should be fine esp if you know how to sew a button (I have MTM shirts so all good), and (3) IMO, looks good with both work and casual clothes - good sized watch. See below pic. It's my daily watch for work and casual, no problems with it. [​IMG]
     
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  20. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Love the Calatrava links.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
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