The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Actually, most people with mechanical watches will probably have to set their watches at least 5 times a year anyway, depending on their tolerance for not having the precise time :)
     


  2. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    You're absolutely right, of course. A really difficult balancing act especially with the older watches. The other issue with this piece is that it's not complete - no box, no papers. It's being offered at a fairly steep discount because of this, versus the $30K+ numbers I see for complete pieces, but that does make me hesitate because I'll encounter the same hurdle in reselling the piece if I'm unfortunate enough to have to let it go at some point in the future.

    Yes, angles and the way the crystal is thicker/taller/bubbles up. Feels like the same size as my 5711, although it is of course thicker/higher so different presence on the wrist.

    Oh this is awesome. Thanks for sharing, kungapa. How have you been? Are you in NYC much these days?

    Great question, Nuke. Dino captured my thinking/feeling in his post below; offers enough diversity given the range of metals, case shapes, and little nitpicky details (the fact that the 5040J offers that tonneau shape, display back and track around the dial - all of which the 3940P does not - gives it cool variety for me)... it certainly satiates my need for diversity when I need a little bit of a change.

    And since I sweat a ton, I find that I rotate across leather straps pretty much every day to give each of them a rest. If I wear the 3970 in yellow gold on a Monday and don't get to wear the 3970 in platinum till Thursday, I am yankering to have it on my wrist by the middle of the week! Just my personal feeling.

    I am not immune to feeling like other pieces are rendered obsolete: in fact, I used to own two very basic Calatravas and when I was gunning for the perp-cals, I just felt that they won't get any wrist time anymore. So I traded them in to help finance the perp-cals and future acquisitions. Regret always comes in retrospect so I'm fortunate that I don't miss the Calatravas one bit.

    +1 to Dino's read of how I feel about the diversity of my current pieces. Totally captures what I wanted to express.

    As for perp cal versus annual cal - I feel the same way, with one caveat: if the annual calendar does offer an interesting "look," I'd consider it. Aesthetics versus the level of complication - because if it was all about the level of complication the perp cals will always (by definition) win the day. For example, the 5205 annual calendar offers an interesting "modern" take on Patek calendar complications (pics from PuristS, etc):

    [​IMG]

    A more "modern" readable dial, bigger case (versus the 36mm case of the 3940), a nice sweeping seconds hand (which the perp cals from earlier generations did not have, not counting the retrograding 5059s, etc).

    And look at the very interesting design of the pierced lugs!

    [​IMG]

    My problem with the 5205 is Patek's current pricing. Retail of $49,500! Even pre-owned, it's rare to get this one for under $40K. For those prices you can easily find a mint, complete 3940 perpetual calendar in yellow gold - an absolute Patek classic. White gold in the low to mid $40s if you're a white metal kind of guy. So with this kind of relative price differentials... you're not even "going big" necessarily... for the same price, you can get either an annual calendar... or a perpetual calendar. If that's the game, then it's perp-cals for me all day long.

    Yeah - as long as the aesthetics are cool/different enough and there's a price differential that I can live with, I can see myself going for an annual calendar.

    For example, if the 5205G was priced in the low to mid $20s (where older annual calendars are trading in the secondary market - see for example the 5035), then vis-a-vis the $40K that you need to ramp up to a pre-owned 3940, well, that complication-to-value ratio makes sense to me.

    But if we're comparing an annual calendar with interesting aesthetics for more or less the same price as a mint perpetual calendar from the same manufacturer - whoa. It's perp-cal for me.

    So let's pick an annual vs perpetual calendar with comparable aesthetics but some price difference, to make the thought experiment interesting. Let's pit the 5146 versus the 3940. Currently in production, the 5146 trades more cheaply than the 5205 in the secondary market - so a yellow gold can probably be had in the mid- to high $30s. But, with a bit of negotiating you can probably get a 3940 in yellow gold for $40K or maybe slightly less. So for that $2,000 to $5,000 difference, at those price levels, would you rather have this:

    Patek 5146J - annual calendar. Cal 324 self-winding movement:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Or this? Patek 3940J - perpetual calendar. Cal 240 self-winding movement.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    For me - and I suspect, for Dino as well, but I might be wrong - I'd pay the differential to get the perpetual calendar. $2,000 to $5,000 is still a lot of money, though in percentage terms once you get to the mid-$30s it's relatively more palatable/acceptable.

    But I am not sure others would feel the same way! What do the TWAT folks think?
     


  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    lol, too true.
    ---
    wurger, the new watch looks great on ya!
     


  4. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    frills, the 5205 is very cool. and its just like i mentioned (sorry for the arrogance that probably implies), annuals with window displays are often very cool, and would be desirable to me even if i had perps.

    as to the two you juxtaposed, no question there. perp cal by miles.
     


  5. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Heh, that's right.

    And as for perpetual calendars, if you have it serviced often (every 3-4 years?) you might not even enjoy that "leap year benefit" in year 4!

    Personally I won't get the perp-cals serviced that often though. I rotate often and don't keep them on a winder; figure once every 6-8 years would be fine.

    I am the one who adjusts my wife's date watches when the number of days in the month shifts, so I am keenly aware of the required frequency of adjustments. Haha!

    Watch looks good on you, wurger!
     


  6. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

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  7. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Looking good! Are you wearing shorts in this pic? I've never understood why some folks think that a yellow gold classic timepiece on a brown leather strap won't work well for shorts / casual attire. Really depends on how the individual carries it!
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    NonServiam - that JLC :inlove: nice gleam on the case too.
     


  9. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

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    I am indeed! Shorts and an H&M button down ;) I am rarely anything other than casual. Work or play. Today I went shopping in town, and right now I'm cooking dinner, timing with the JLC.
     


  10. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Sorry, I'm just not a calendar or annual calendar person. I've never really seen one that I liked enough to even remotely consider. The only calendar watches that interest me are actual perpetual calendars, but those are generally well beyond my budget. As for Blancpain, while I respect the quality of their work, I've yet to see or handle a BP that I really liked. Even their really high end complicated pieces don't interest me, and once you get into a certain price range there are watches I'd rather have from other companies.
    Dopey, that's a really funny way to look at it. I never considered that. Only about half of my watches have dates on them, and when possible I would opt for a watch without a date because I prefer its symmetry (but that's more of a preference pertaining to appearance over function). I think we have all seen watches that make us say, "Oh why the f*ck did the cut a hole in the dial for a date? This watch would have been absolutely perfect as a time only piece."

    I do have some watches with a date, but I can do without it. I would also say that if someone has several watches, and you change watches enough and do not use a winder (I don't like winders), then you have to set the time and date if its been sitting around anyway, so its not a huge deal.
    When it comes to a regular date function, for me its really depends on the watch. The one watch, I think looks good with or without it is the Submariner. I like the symmetry of the no-date Sub, yet I'm also so used to a Sub with a cyclops and date that it doesn't bother me. I also do not mind it on a current AP RO Jumbo, as the background for the date is the same color as the dial, so it sort of blends in with the dial rather than being an obvious distraction.
     


  11. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    I have no qualms wearing a yellow gold piece on a leather strap with casual wear either. Like my "Frills pose" for today:

    [​IMG]

    I elected to unblur the area with the shades because (a) I like these shades and (b) this is SF, after all. [​IMG]
     


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i am not a huge BP fan either, and agree 100% about their higher end pieces landing in a price range where there are many many other options i would opt for instead, but i have a friend who has their AC and it was very nice, and i think the price was pretty reasonable at the time iirc.

    this AC for example, from my beloved JLC, would definitely find a happy home with me. i think it a superbly designed watch, and in no way makes me think, hey, that really should be a perp but they stopped short.

    :drool:

    [​IMG]
     
    i too tend to prefer symmetrical watches. that was one of the main reasons why i chose the 112 when i went for a panerai. it is 100% simple symmetrical beauty. the symmetry of squadra hometime was also a huge factor for me when i chose it. the AM/PM at 9 o'clock across from the date at 3 o'clock, both the same size, font and color scheme, coupled with the seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock made for a wonderfully symmetrical appearance that really appealed to me.

    the rolex i just bought has nothing to symmetricize (new word) the date, but what would a DJ be without the date after all? despite my love for symmetry, i have never found it to be an issue with the DJ. it just works for me.

    but as always, YMMV.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2013


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    frills, your arms are HEWGE!!! :slayer:
     


  14. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Another comparison to think about: rumors are swirling around that the 5711 in PLATINUM may well be produced in limited quantities. If the rumors are true, it may retail in the low $90s.

    $90,000+ for a no-complication 5711. Wow.

    How does it compare to a 5711 in stainless steel? Well, pictures have also emerged via KIH from PuristSPro. 5711/1A in SS on the left, 5711/1P on the right:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    From these pics and the different lighting, it seems clear that the 5711 in SS has a dial that's closer to blue/gray than the more "electric blue" / "brighter blue" for the 5711/1P. From some of the pics it does look like the platinum version stands out in terms of how "pure" the white metal looks (as it should, given the price premium).

    Actually thought my 5711/1A's dial would be comparable, but I really need to see the 5711/1P in person.

    But here's the thing: even if the rumors ARE true, the 5711/1P will likely go for several years wait time if sourced through an AD. If bought on the secondary market, it will likely trade for a significant premium - like the 5131 right now, maybe in the $120s to $130s. Whoa.

    What would you rather get for that kind of price point? A 3970 perpetual calendar chrono in platinum for a 5711 in platinum? Easy choice for me.
     


  15. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Hah - darn photo angle! It does look like the arms are 30 inches around, but they're more like (slightly over) half that.

    Angle of the photo also makes my waist look huge, but I cropped that out! [​IMG]
     


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