The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Bams

    Bams Active Member

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    Hello everyone,

    I could really use some guidance on where to start looking for a dressy watch.
    I have looked at a few (JLC reverso or master control, Rolex DJ, Omega DeVille) but maybe I am missing a lot of choices and since I have not seen all those models I just listed, maybe I have the wrong impressions on how they actually are on a wrist.

    I already have a Longiness conquest, but I find it a bit too thick so it does not fit well under my shirt cuffs and maybe not so dressy.
    I am going to change jobs and will wear suits more often, so I want (need?) a nice watch to go with that.
    The budget is not super high, around 5000 euros max, so I would like to focus on quality in the fundamentals rather than extras (no complication and no precious materials). I have pretty small wrist so something between 35 to 38 would fit better I believe.

    Do you have any suggestions?
    I will obviously look at them in person afterwards but I don't know where to start.

    Thank you for the guidance and help
     
  2. Chows Tuddon

    Chows Tuddon Member

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    Do not buy a new Rolex. They are no longer well made and display all the general characteristics of design and machining that most other Swiss giants do. If you want a Rolex, get a mint one that is pre-2005. I was recently speaking to one of the world's top Rolex dealer/collectors and he attested what I've written above. My mum got a Datejust about 2 years ago and it's a complete pile of shit. Looks dumb, wears badly, CANNOT keep time, can't be fixed, is large and gaudy and plainly has been downgraded in quality from earlier makes.

    It's like if you get in a BMW from 1999 and then one from 2009 - there's been a fundamental re-adjustment of quality for the sake of extrinsic financial and marketing factors. In the case of BMW, you can understand that Asian cars are cheaper to build and in order for BMW to keep upgrading technology, price competitiveness dictates that material and quality control must give a little. Even in my bro's 2013 7 series, underneath the dashboard leather is creaky plastic. This is not the case in an E38, I assure you.

    Why Rolex have gone all funny, I do not know. You can see the philosophical change in everything about them, from that stupid "rolex rolex rolex" writing on some models, to the steel models with brilliants all over them. Trash. All the polished edges. The fact is that globalisation and the fall of the wall have led to an international marketing environment where a lot of these formerly nice brands have had to cater to increased demand by bad taste.

    I'm only bothering to say this because so many people in these sorts of forums seem utterly oblivious to this. The only thing that's got better about them is the full upgrade to 904L steel in bracelets (not just the case). Now you might want a simple Datejust or Submariner, but they will not display the same quality and subtlety that earlier equivalents do.

    My advice is to buy anything simple in steel, in good condition, that doesn't have an ETA movement in it.
     
  3. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    You know, with that description, I do not think you could do much better than a JLC MUT 38 or Master Control. At ~$5,000 euros, I really would not look anywhere other than JLC. Rolex DJ and Omega DeVille just really do not match up.

    The MUT 38 comes in at just the right size for you. It is also very nice and thin.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The movement, although small for the case, is one of the best movements out there.

    Here is an interesting review on the movement: http://www.thepurists.com/watch/features/8ohms/jlchw/

    As you can tell, they also made the watch in 34mm. If you find the 38mm too big, you could try looking around for one.
     
  4. Bams

    Bams Active Member

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    Thank you very much, the picture are also very helpfull.

    For my personnal development, could you say a few words why the DJ and DeVille do not match up? As far as I understand they also have manufacture movements? Maybe not the DeVille...

    Thanks you!
     
  5. Omega Male

    Omega Male Senior member

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    How about a 16600 Sea-Dweller?
     
  6. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

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    I would vote for an ExII 16570 white dial even though it doesn't have green.
     
  7. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Some random contemporary dress watch suggestions in no particular order:

    1) Glashutte Original Senator Sixties
    2) Zenith Captain Central Seconds
    3) Glashutte Original Senator Automatic
    4) Nomos tangomat.
    5) Chronoswiss Orea
    6) Chopard L.U.C. 1937.

    I think both the basic Reverso and the Omega DeVille are fine choices. I own the latter. On a strap it serves very well in a pure dress watch role. On the supple mesh-look OE bracelet, it transitions well to sporty casual. The Reverso is and always will be THE iconic JLC. Can't go wrong there. Plus you can play with the case when you're bored.

    My favourite dress watches tend to be quality vintage pieces, however. Unsurpassed value for money in the genre, IMO. It takes a bit more looking and some homework but the results are more than worth the effort.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2013
  8. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    Bawlin - I looked at a Hulk when I stopped in the store the other day. The green is mesmerizing. I like the green face better than the 50th Anniversary black face. I don't think I would call the watch subtle but I would wear it with a suit no problem.
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Nuke - that mvmnt pic was delicious.

    Dino & Nuke - lol @ the airplane stories.
     
  10. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Great for casual, not great with a suit. But if you really don't wear suits that often, maybe you can get a dressy watch for suits at a later date.
    If you wants something very dressy for a suit, I like the idea of a JLC Reverso. Classic, elegant, and a rectangular watch is a bit off the beaten path. The bulk of people buy round watches. Stick with a GT size case and you should be fine. If I were getting a JLC, the Reverso is so iconic it would be the piece I would have to own. In a GT size case it is a manual wind. Not sure if that matters to you, or if you would prefer an automatic.

    If you want a go anywhere, do anything kind of watch, the Rolex Datejust is ideal. Its movement is not as finely finished as the JLC, but its a good quality in house movement, its an automatic, and its versatile enough that you can wear it easily with a suit or jeans and a T-shirt. In addition, unlike the Reverso, you could also wear it to go swimming and at the beach.

    Roger also had some interesting alternatives.
    The green face is cool, but I don't find the green bezel is as attractive as the green bezels of the old 50th Anniversary watches. I think the first watch Rolex has done a great job with in terms of creating a colored bezel is the Blue/Black GMT 2.
    I don't think its a matter of them not matching up. They are just different and different people here may have different preferences. The DeVille is a nice watch but wouldn't be my taste. I think the JLC's movement finishing is finer than what you will find on a Rolex DJ or DeVille. But I find the DJ, a more rugged and more versatile watch than a MUT/Master Control...and as I already mentioned I'd opt for a Reverso if getting a JLC.
     
  11. kayhill

    kayhill Senior member

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    That is one beautiful watch. JLC is very good value for money.
     
  12. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Stitch, Glad you liked the airplane story. Although, I think Mrs. Dino and I were luckier than Nuke, since the person next to us kept his clothes on, and indirectly paid the Mrs. a compliment.
     
  13. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    I just think that for a dress watch, JLC is just the best option in that price range. The DJ and the DeVille are great watches in themselves, but they are definitely more along the sporty end of the spectrum. If you want a do it all watch, those are definitely great options (as is the 38.5mm aqua terra). But I think that for a dress watch in that price range, JLC just presents a great value proposition. And that movement is just phenomenal.

    The Reverso is also great, and I agree with everything Dino said. The only thing about the Reverso is that my favorite models may be a bit too large for your wrist. Otherwise, I think the Reverso is a superb option.

    I also really like Roger's suggestions. I would advise looking around a little bit more until you determine what suits you best!
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    HA! too true.
     
  15. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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