The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    While many in here doesn't like the wider lug and bigger dots that gives the Submariner a more sporty look, but there are two major changes that made my decision to purchase the new version.

    - the new ceramic bezel that is virtually scratch resistant and always shinny
    - and most importantly, the new glidelock clasp, seriously, IMHO, all metal watch bracelets should embrace that design, those small increments come in so handy.
     


  2. bawlin

    bawlin Senior member

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    Ugh... my AD just called me to inform me that they have a new GMT BLNR in stock. I say "ugh" because I made the decision to pass on this watch a couple of weeks back in lieu of either buying a regular GMT and saving $3,000 in the process or holding out for a few months and seeing if I have the funds for an AP. That said, it's frustrating to know that I'm a mere 2 miles away from a BLNR and could have one on my wrist tonight. I think I'm making the right decision in passing, however, as I'm trying to give this delayed gratification thing a try.
     


  3. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Stay strong and stay the course. There must be a good reason why you made this choice.

    If you really wanted this one instead you would have made a different decision.
     


  4. Warren G.

    Warren G. Senior member

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    ahaha is that Sam?
     


  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    No worries. Glad you guys had fun. I'll have to wait until there's a meeting of the SF Bros a bit further north like NYC.
    Absolutely perfect way to honor the 4th of July. Your Pepsi GMT is looking great!
    Very cool photo of the 5711 getting a bath!
    +1 on Nina Agdal!!! Funny, you have a thing for blondes and for the first time you are dating a brunette. I always had a thing for and dated brunettes and figured I'd marry one, but ended up marrying a dirty blonde! [​IMG]

    [​IMG] The GMT is a great watch. But if you truly desire to own an AP, hold off and get the watch you really want. Substitutes may work as a temporary distraction, but for me they would never satisfy my true wishes. Good luck with whatever you decide.
     


  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    - i love the rolex ceramic bezel
    - it is great. i believe breitling uses a similar concept


    agree 100%.


    thanks. either i didnt know or i forgot that you were near NYC. ill shoot you a PM next time im in the area and have some free time.
     


  7. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Long post regarding Belli's post earlier...

    Response to Mr. Forster’s article:

    I really enjoyed reading this article, and it brought to my mind a lot of the criticisms that I have with regard to the watch industry. I have only been passionate about watches for a few years, so I am a novice with this whole thing. But I have to say, as a “student” of various luxury goods, the watch industry is a very different animal (note: I know nothing about cars).

    I have noticed the “toothlessness” of almost all editorial content covering all things horological. Even the toothiest of sources are, well, not that toothy, to keep the analogy going. For example, Hodinkee had a post on a LUC Chopard the other day (link for posterity: http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/hands-...se-chronometer-from-chopard-live-pics-pricing), and it really got me thinking. Now, I did not post that nasty comment, but I do kind of agree with some of the content. I read through the post, and I really did not find one remotely negative comment. It is a nice watch, but it is not that nice. And it has some clear “faults,” or at lest drawbacks. It is 42mm, which is pretty gigantic for a watch like that, and that date window is egregiously terrible. Not to mention, the odd amalgamation of Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, different fonts, etc. Now, Hodinkee I usually find to be a pretty honest source. But I feel like big brother is always in the background. Everybody is afraid of biting the hand that feeds. And I think that is a big problem. But how the heck do we change this problem? Honestly, sometimes a spade just needs to be called a spade. If a watch is ugly, it NEEDS to be called ugly. I think in this hobby we are all novices to an extent. There is a lot to learn, and a whole lot of it is incredibly technical.

    I think Mr. Forster had a good point when he talks about the “qualifications” that the “ideal” watch journalist should have. Such a person should know something about design, he should know something about engineering, etc. And it is funny when you think about it. Very rarely do I ever read anything that has much “substance” to it. Rarely do you read about the architecture of movements, the quality of the finishing (other than “it has geneve stripes, wow!”), or anything too in depth. It is normally all so superficial. Is this journalism a product of catering to readership? Or is it a product of not knowing enough to intelligently comment? And when you think about the product… it is kind of absurd. We are talking about a product that is just exorbitantly expensive. As much as a darn house. But we barely have any information about it.

    I think that the conclusion is particularly… frightening for those that enjoy this hobby. “Selling Veblen goods to a progressively narrower and narrower slice of the affluent uninformed is not a particularly sustainable business model.” Shit, the man has a point. Where do we go from here? How do we change this? This is just such an incredibly difficult problem to solve. And I feel like the watch companies are going in the wrong direction. Right now, they seem to be maximizing profits by targeting that percentage of people who are going to buy watches for whatever price they charge. But I feel like this is really only sustainable in the short term. Many of these brands are completely alienating a younger following.

    I also don’t feel like there are many “honest” producers out there. There are “honest” producers in many other categories of luxury goods. Carmina, Sam Hober, etc. People who say “this is a luxury good, suck it up,” I think are incorrect. Yes, it is a luxury good. But I feel like for the “luxury” price, you are not always getting a “luxury” good. There is so much concealment, false advertising, predatory practices, etc., within the industry, it is kind of nauseating. Sometimes I hear about a new watch, and I read a statement that goes something like this: “‘x’ watch presents a great value proposition, it is only $1,800 for an industrially finished sellita movement, with a branded rotor …” How on earth is that a great value proposition? The cost of making these watches is probably shockingly low. But how do we demand a more reasonable mark-up? And unlike other luxury goods, the after-market service is frequently atrocious. And expensive. If your watch malfunctions within the first couple of months, normally you have to send it back. That takes three months. They take it apart, ship it back and forth, and you often have to pay for shipping and insurance, etc. Honestly, if that happens with a $10,000 product, they should just be taking that thing back and replace it. But somehow these problems are not being rectified, and no one is really talking about it.

    And it is not like honest pricing is not possible. Nomos is a small brand, an offers an in-house product for under $2,000. Frederique Constante offers a moonphase with date, and a world-timer for a little over $2,000 with an in-house movement. Neither of these brands have the economies of scale and size that SWATCH or Richemont have, yet they are able to price their products much more reasonably.

    And the sources to “actually” learn from are dwindling. That is one of the things I love about this thread. I feel like everyone is pretty damn honest. Everyone is respectful, but people are not afraid to disagree. And that creates intelligent discourse. Just a couple thoughts I had!
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Great post. Agree with some points, but not all. Will reply with more than blurbs after a good nights sleep.
     


  9. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Longines Conquest Heritage in action, really like the vintage style, Hesalite crystal and gold markers and hands.

    [​IMG]
     


  10. rahab

    rahab Member

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    very nice
     


  11. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    That Chopard would be perfect if not for the Romans IMO.



     


  12. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    If by "Sam" you are referring to one of the many names used by this international man of mystery, then it is possible...

    Since you mentioned Hodinkee, I went back to one of their recent posts where I remembered them not singing praises 100% of the time (here's founder Ben Clymer writing about the Omega "Dark Side of the Moon"):

    http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/thoughts-on-the-omega-speedmaster-dark-side-of-the-moon

    Here Ben does rant about the lack of a quick-set date, and about that little feature that, "once seen, can no longer be unseen." So there's some "tooth" in the piece but when I read it again there's much more that was "liked" versus "not liked."

    This isn't necessarily a criticism of Hodinkee's approach; I can't disregard the very distinct possibility that editorial choices in outfits like these include concerns about not just a "big brother" (sponsor? advertisers?) but just a decision - whether explicit or implicit, enshrined in their "operating manual" or just tacitly enforced on a day-to-day working basis - to not write about pieces they think just suck. So what ends up being written about are pieces that are "90% likeable... or more." So if you believe that there is some merit to what an outfit like Hodinkee does, then the message is all about watches they don't write about as much as the watches that they do profile.

    Of course there is always "The Watch Snob" from askmen.com if you want someone who'll "respond" to "readers" and tell them about watches that suck! Heh heh.
     


  13. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    And the 42mm case? But yes, good looking watch, but there were some things that could have been 'mentioned.' Of course, I was just using that for an example :).


    Oh, I think that Hodinkee is one of the best, if not the best, sources in the industry. They are almost always very fair, and I think it is out of their editorial choice to be a more 'uplifting' blog. They pick watches that they like and talk about them. They don't pick a watch and then run it over. And I certainly respect that. I kind of called them out because I do think that they are one of the most fair. I did not want to pick a straw man for an example, and did not really want to call anyone out :). You can definitely kind of get certain subtext from Hodinkee if you look hard enough. For example, in their recent piece on the JLC Jubilee ultra-thin novelty from SIHH this year, you could kind of tell the piece really did not sing to him the way that he was expecting. It was actually a very interesting article. SJX also calls it as he sees it frequently, which I enjoy.

    And the Watch Snob? All criticism is an even greater evil!
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    wurger - i like your collection.
     


  15. styledamage

    styledamage Well-Known Member

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    Gentlemen, I'll be 28 in September and I've decided to invest in two 'good' watches. My budget is around £1K each.

    First choice is the Max Bill Chrono

    [​IMG]


    Second choice I'm not too sure about. Something quite dressy, white face, in metal/silver; anything like the Cartier Tank would be great.

    Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2013


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