Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
Devoti, are those all your watches? Just curious!
Apropos: gorgeous constellation! I need to pick me up one of those one day. Kind of terrified to wade into the vintage omega waters though...
And that tank looks like a mess. Cartier has made tanks for around 95 years. How is it possible that they have forgot how to make them? I can deal with date at six and sweep seconds on the dial, a la the tank solo, as it really does not destroy the integrity of the dial (although I would prefer just hours and minutes). I can also deal with automatic rather than manual, though that is close to a deal breaker. At least on the solo the case back is solid. But on a new, in house watch, why would you screw with every element that made the watch great. The curvature of the case makes it look more like a gp 1945, the circular automatic movement looks silly, the watch is much thicker and much larger, the dial is a cluttered mess.
I think you may have missed that I qualified my statement and I was speaking of dress watches. I don't wear my dress watches to work very often, so the date function isn't a big deal (not to mention I still have my computer, cell, and calendar).
To be honest, if I wear my Daytona for a day or so I quickly stopping looking for the date on my watch. Then if I go back to wearing a watch with a date, I don't think to look on the watch for a date. A date is fine on a variety sportier watches.
The bracelet on the XII is really nice and comfortable, but my favorite IWC bracelets are the old bracelets with pyramid shaped links used on the old 3706 and 3713.
My favorite version of a military watch. Although in this photo it looks like someone went a bit crazy polishing the lugs.
Kind of sad. That's what happens when you try to make one movement fit everything. The watch had potential, but the seconds subdial eats up too much of the dial. The Calibre isn't my favorite Cartier, but somehow that look of the subdial eating the bottom have of the dial works better on the Calibre. They should have nixed the subdial for seconds on this watch, or develop a variation with a center seconds hand. At some point I'd love to see a Santos Galbee with with an inhouse movement but not if the bottom have of the dial will be eaten by the seconds subdial.
The date window alone would not have been a plus for me, but the date window and sub dial create too much clutter on this dial. Its as though they moved away from what made the Tank famous. Its simplicity and not having lots of extraneous other functions is what makes their classic Tanks so attractive, at least to me.
As for the curved case, its actually a very Cartier look. It's something that Cartier has done for many years with their Tank Cintree and Tank Americaine.
This is Cartier trying to use the movement from the Calibre in all of their watches. They need another in house movement for their reasonably priced watches, that doesn't have the bizarre giant subdial, and either has no seconds hand or has one centrally mounted. Also, if you are sticking a round movement in a rectangular watch, just give it a solid back (like PP and VC do). This watch is an example of why I don't care for round movements in rectangular or square watches.
i am really mad because i can a cross many of those old omegas years ago and we had them for next to nothing. i should have kopped.
IMO the newer models have no business calling themselves 'Mark' anything. The Mk 11, based on the 6B/346 designation from The Air Ministry (later the Ministry of Defence), was the origin of the design, and at the time produced by both IWC and JLC. IWC's Mark XII and XV kept a similar design, apart from the addition of a date. From the Mark XVI forward they've cut any ties to the original design, making them closer to the older styled Beobachtungsuhr (originally made for Luftwaffe by A. Lange & Söhne, Laco, Stowa, Wempe and yes, IWC). A design IWC already had in their line-up in the Big Pilot. It's sad that they couldn't see the room for both types of pilot watches in their catalogue, IMO.
I like the larger size of my Mk XV but I would prefer the longer and slimmer 5 minute markers on the Mk XII.
Apropos: I have a pie pan Connie that is marked Automatic Chronometer, but not "Officially Certified" (it passes MO, but not MOY). Everything else about it makes it seem real, including the numerals and markers, the Omega and symbol applications and the patination. Do you think it must be a redial or could it be an original dial?
That is kosher, a known (less common!) variation.
You have correctly pointed out they pass MO as well.
Oh yes, I caught that! I was just trying to say that if I do have a date on my dress watch, I vastly prefer it to be a pointer date. But I definitely understand not having a date at all, it makes the dial look much, much cleaner. My posts have been fairly terrible lately, my laptop decided to die on me, so I have been relegated to posting on my darn iPad.
And for me, I almost exclusively wear my dress watches to work. And I like to have the date handy just to keep track of certain legal related dates. I would say that I check the date on my watches at least a dozen times per day. In contrast, I have no problem with not having a date on my sportier pieces.
I completely agree with this. Something about the stark Tank dial is just gorgeous. The large roman numerals are more than sufficient to make the dial interesting. That is interesting regarding the curved case. I guess, to be honest, I really prefer a 'flatter' case with square or rectangular watches, a la the Reverso or the Tank, or your VC for that matter. But then again, I am kind of still warming up to the whole rectangular case thing.
I think you are spot on regarding the incorporation of one movement into the various ranges. What I don't get is why they have not modified that movement... at all. Heck, I think the watch would have looked better if they just covered the date function. I am not too familiar with the technicalities, but I doubt it would be very difficult to convert the subsidiary seconds to centrally mounted seconds.
Now, with all of this said... the new in-house caliber is very reasonably priced, which I really appreciate. $6,000 for a SS watch with a manufacture movement from Cartier, one of the most prestigious companies in the world? Not too shabby. I cannot help but feel that they could charge more, considering their placement in the market. Sure, the watch is not the best, but they are going in the right direction.
KS41 - scuse my rattie shirt.
^^ I like this (although it does look kind of big for your shirt cuff). Simple, blue hands, small seconds...all things that make me feel warm inside.
Re. Connie talk: I love it when you knowledgeable dudes talk about shit I don't understand. Makes me feel I'm getting educated instead of just fantasising about expensive stuff I'm not going to buy.
Just to change it up a little . . . .
This is a (probably fake) Hublot I discovered while searching an apartment. I was searching the apartment to try and find recoverable assets for a friend / client, who was scammed out of $$$$ by the now-jailed former tenant.
While I believe this is a replica, there is a real Hublot Big Bang line called the "Tutti-fruiti" that looks pretty similar. I work with casino owners, slot machine dealers, new-money hoteliers, Russian something-archs, middle-eastern rich kids, professional athletes, and other individuals you would expect to have questionable taste. I see them in their natural environments in Vegas, Biloxi, the caribbean, and South America. I have seen some tacky rich people wearing tacky shit, and I have met their very tacky girlfriends wearing even tackier shit.
And yet, I don't know a single person other than this particular scam artist who would wear this watch. So tell me, outside of a select group of Miami scam artists, who would wear this horological abortion?**
** I have it on because I wore it to the scam artist's bond hearing just to be a dick.
^^^Post of the day nominee^^^
Big A, you have indeed changed it up a little.
And I have further thoughts on the tankiness of the new Tank, but not enough time to share just now.
Briefly, I would applaud Cartier for their multiple strap options play, and I also agree with Newcomer that they have at least attempted to price it halfway realistically (for the steel version).
Rooster: Nice Stowa .
Really good info apropos, thanks. Yes the watch is a family heirloom and had been with my father for 45yrs and is pretty much looks the same as it does now as it did in the wedding photo's when my parents wed 44yrs ago. Serviced by Omega in the 90's and then by a friend last year. Whatever this watch is, it's my favorite on the wrist (we all have one) compared to all my other watches (have & sold) and the best part it's the most accurate of my watches, much better than my IWC Mark XII and my other Omega's so go figure.
Separate names with a comma.