The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. PartagasIV

    PartagasIV Senior member

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    Dino, is your privee model case equivalent to the 'current' large Tank solo? Extra large? It looks phenomenal, now I want a Tank.

    From Cartier's site, the current large is 31 mm x 40.85 mm x 7.65 mm thick.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2013


  2. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    that omega is sweet. newcomer, you need to get all three. omega, IWC and cartier.
     


  4. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    That is correct.
    The case size for the now "Retired" (as they say at Cartier) Privee LC Tank XL is closer in size to the current Large Tank Solo. However, while the cases look similar, they are quite different when you compare the two cases. They still make the case size for the watch I have, but it has a date window under the 12 o'clock position and a power reserve indicator at 6, both of which I find detract from the clean simple lines of a classic Tank.

    The other factor that makes the Privee Tank XL so special is the movement. Most rectangular watches (even when offered by PP, AP, or VC use a round movement, unless its a special piece like a tourbillon, or other complicated watch). The Privee Tank XL is one of the few time only watches where the company used a rectangular movement for their rectangular case. Its cheaper and easier just to choose a smaller round movement and stuff it into a rectangular case or square case. Its requires more work to design a rectangular movement and the costs associated with them are higher because their are fewer applications for them, as you generally can't put them in round cases.

    Here a quick shot of the movement in my Tank XL. Its a movement I'd put up against any time only movement from the "Big Three."


    [​IMG]
     


  5. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Gents can I get some advice please?

    I have a Speedmaster Pro which I've owned for a couple of years. It doesn't get a lot of use - mainly on weekends, and only to wear around generally - no exposure to dusty, dirty or wet environments. Can you suggest when/how often it should be serviced?

    Thanks.
     


  6. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    There's two school of thoughts.

    Have it serviced when the manufacturer states (about every five years).


    Wait and have it serviced when something goes wrong.


    Keep in mind the less it is used, the less it probably actually requires a service. Especially with the oils they use nowadays. I would however probably recommend that you give it a wind at least once every month or two to get those juices flowing.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2013


  7. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    I especially love this display back shot - and of course your points about time-only finishings for the rectangular case.

    Now, tell us: did you take this picture right after you purchased the watch? Right after you had a new strap put on? Or do you just not have sweat glands! [​IMG]
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    lol, this is perfect. my opinion is 10 years or if something goes wrong/you feel something is wonky, whatever comes first.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2013


  9. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Thanks to you and dddrees. Looks like I can put off the big bill for a while yet.
     


  10. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    I'm sticking my neck out here and going against the wisdom above: although the movement is beautiful and the design is classic, I find the Tank a teensy bit...effeminate - in gold that is. But in your budget I guess it's steel anyway, with an un-tapered strap or bracelet to give it a bit more presence, then maybe that looks a bit more manly on the wrist. There, I said it.

    The Ingy is relatively chunky and utilitarian-looking if that's your thing, and I kind of like it. But it's not exactly dressy. The AT is nice, and well under budget, but perhaps not that "special" if you already have other nice watches. Might I suggest a couple more alternatives?

    1. For that price, you can get a regular Rolex DateJust. If you're not insecure about your size (teehee!) I think a plain stainless 36mm DJ with a white or black dial, is plenty smart on the wrist, versatile to wear with anything, and, well, it's a Rolex.

    2. But if you can supplement your budget, and you want something that's all dress, then if you add about $1k of your own, you can just about stretch to a JLC master control. That's a nice size, definitely a dress watch, and definitely special enough for the occasion I think.

    Otherwise, of your three I like the Nomos Weltzeit. Nice watch for the aspiring international businessman. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013


  11. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Sticking your neck out.... here comes the axe. [​IMG] Just kidding - I can understand how the Tank might impress as leaning toward the feminine side of things given the contemporary landscape of oversized wrist clocks, but I definitely don't share that point of view. It is the epitome of elegance in my eyes. If anything, the ginormous testoterone-infused horological excess that dominates a great many brands these days is more likely to suggest to me that the wearer is seriously overcompensating for an unseen deficiency.

    AT not that 'special'? I suppose I can get that in the context of an already well-established high quality watch rotation - though I would argue that it is a superb piece for the price. Datejust more 'special' than an AT? That I don't get at all. It's practically a living definition of 'generic watch' in my estimation. I'd go with the AT 10 times out of 10 here. Similar wacthes that I would select over the AT are almost without exception a good deal more costly.

    [​IMG]

    I'm with you on the JLC Master Control. Less versatile than either the DJ or AT - more firmly on the dress watch end of the scale - but a classic study in understated elegance and ageless aesthetics.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013


  12. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Personally, if you can afford it, I would service it at the service intervals. For me, it is all about piece of mind, and 10 years for one watch is not the same as ten years for another!

    Mimo: I have a feeling that many people share your sentiments about the tank. It is a bit on the feminine side of the spectrum (paging Fritzl). But then, I discuss men's clothing and watches, and have more shoes than my lady friend, so perhaps such a watch is fitting! Personally I view the tank as a watch that is timeless and supremely elegant. But I would like to see how it looks on the wrist first. I will look into the DJ. I honestly did not think that it was possible to find a new DJ at that price. The Master Control is a solid selection as well. That and the MUT Moon would make a great one-two punch when it comes to dress watches!

    RogerP: I am with you on the Aqua Terra. It is a stunning watch with an excellent movement. Very nicely designed, and very practical.
     


  13. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Hmm.

    Disagree about the Tank being effeminate. Have sympathy for RogerP's views re: compensation. Not sure why coloured gold = girly.

    Agree re: AT, it straddles the awkward no man's land of "all in one" watch (dressy sport, sporty dressy) better than most.

    Datejusts are certainly far, far, far more ubiquitous than ATs, but perhaps the vast variations in dials, bezels, bracelets help offset the commonality a bit...

    Only situations where I think observing service interval matter more than others are with high beat watches, or very complicated watches.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013


  14. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Hehe...axes indeed.

    I'm not saying that gold is just for girls (well, depends on your religious persuasion in some cases), or that the Tank is either. But something about the combination is just a little...borderline. The steel one on a bracelet even more so; perhaps it's something to do with the case being so similar in width to the bracelet. But the steel on a strap I would wear.

    It's not, either, that I think of big watches as essential in the current fashion - my daily wearer is 35mm. It's just a combination of proportion, style and colour. In the Tank's case, one or two have to be a certain way to make it work for me. But Mrs Mimo loves it - for her.

    As for the AT, it's not a matter of ubiquity or availability versus the DJ. In some ways, rather the opposite: the DJ is such a design classic, and although the hands and markers on the AT have a history too, they look out of place to me and just a bit tacky. The dial texture etc makes it worse. It's not horrible, but the DJ is just more classy - baton markers, flat bezel for me. Less is more. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013


  15. kungapa

    kungapa Senior member

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    Late to the game, but I tried on the Weltzeit at Nomos. Too big for me, but absolutely fantastically beautiful watch.
     


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