The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Dino944]

Am pretty sure the CPCP LC Tank XL is sized 30 x 39.2mm.

That is correct.

Dino, is your privee model case equivalent to the 'current' large Tank solo? Extra large? It looks phenomenal, now I want a Tank.

From Cartier's site, the current large is 31 mm x 40.85 mm x 7.65 mm thick.

The case size for the now "Retired" (as they say at Cartier) Privee LC Tank XL is closer in size to the current Large Tank Solo. However, while the cases look similar, they are quite different when you compare the two cases. They still make the case size for the watch I have, but it has a date window under the 12 o'clock position and a power reserve indicator at 6, both of which I find detract from the clean simple lines of a classic Tank.

The other factor that makes the Privee Tank XL so special is the movement. Most rectangular watches (even when offered by PP, AP, or VC use a round movement, unless its a special piece like a tourbillon, or other complicated watch). The Privee Tank XL is one of the few time only watches where the company used a rectangular movement for their rectangular case. Its cheaper and easier just to choose a smaller round movement and stuff it into a rectangular case or square case. Its requires more work to design a rectangular movement and the costs associated with them are higher because their are fewer applications for them, as you generally can't put them in round cases.

Here a quick shot of the movement in my Tank XL. Its a movement I'd put up against any time only movement from the "Big Three."

 

[California Dreamer]

Gents can I get some advice please?

I have a Speedmaster Pro which I've owned for a couple of years. It doesn't get a lot of use - mainly on weekends, and only to wear around generally - no exposure to dusty, dirty or wet environments. Can you suggest when/how often it should be serviced?

Thanks.

 

[dddrees]

Gents can I get some advice please?

I have a Speedmaster Pro which I've owned for a couple of years. It doesn't get a lot of use - mainly on weekends, and only to wear around generally - no exposure to dusty, dirty or wet environments. Can you suggest when/how often it should be serviced?

Thanks.

There's two school of thoughts.

Have it serviced when the manufacturer states (about every five years).


Wait and have it serviced when something goes wrong.


Keep in mind the less it is used, the less it probably actually requires a service. Especially with the oils they use nowadays. I would however probably recommend that you give it a wind at least once every month or two to get those juices flowing.

 

[no frills]

That is correct.
The case size for the now "Retired" (as they say at Cartier) Privee LC Tank XL is closer in size to the current Large Tank Solo. However, while the cases look similar, they are quite different when you compare the two cases. They still make the case size for the watch I have, but it has a date window under the 12 o'clock position and a power reserve indicator at 6, both of which I find detract from the clean simple lines of a classic Tank.

The other factor that makes the Privee Tank XL so special is the movement. Most rectangular watches (even when offered by PP, AP, or VC use a round movement, unless its a special piece like a tourbillon, or other complicated watch). The Privee Tank XL is one of the few time only watches where the company used a rectangular movement for their rectangular case. Its cheaper and easier just to choose a smaller round movement and stuff it into a rectangular case or square case. Its requires more work to design a rectangular movement and the costs associated with them are higher because their are fewer applications for them, as you generally can't put them in round cases.

Here a quick shot of the movement in my Tank XL. Its a movement I'd put up against any time only movement from the "Big Three."

I especially love this display back shot - and of course your points about time-only finishings for the rectangular case.

Now, tell us: did you take this picture right after you purchased the watch? Right after you had a new strap put on? Or do you just not have sweat glands!

 

[in stitches]



There's two school of thoughts.
Have it serviced when the manufacturer states (about every five years).
Wait and have it serviced when something goes wrong.
Keep in mind the less it is used, the less it probably actually requires a service. Especially with the oils they use nowadays. I would however probably recommend that you give it a wind at least once every month or two to get those juices flowing.

lol, this is perfect. my opinion is 10 years or if something goes wrong/you feel something is wonky, whatever comes first.

 

[California Dreamer]



lol, this is perfect. my opinion is 10 years or if something goes wrong/you feel something is wonky, whatever comes first.

Thanks to you and dddrees. Looks like I can put off the big bill for a while yet.

 

[mimo]

So, it looks like another watch is in my near future. For my graduation present, the folks and I are going to go to New York, and pick out a watch (among other things of course). The budget is ~$5,000, although preferably lower. I might be willing to supplement, but not much. The hitch is of course having to buy in New York!

Things I have thought of: Cartier Tank Solo with an engraving maybe from JC Randall? IWC Ingenieur? Omega AT? Nomos Weltzeit? I am thinking more along the lines of a dressier day to day watch.

I'm sticking my neck out here and going against the wisdom above: although the movement is beautiful and the design is classic, I find the Tank a teensy bit...effeminate - in gold that is. But in your budget I guess it's steel anyway, with an un-tapered strap or bracelet to give it a bit more presence, then maybe that looks a bit more manly on the wrist. There, I said it.

The Ingy is relatively chunky and utilitarian-looking if that's your thing, and I kind of like it. But it's not exactly dressy. The AT is nice, and well under budget, but perhaps not that "special" if you already have other nice watches. Might I suggest a couple more alternatives?

1. For that price, you can get a regular Rolex DateJust. If you're not insecure about your size (teehee!) I think a plain stainless 36mm DJ with a white or black dial, is plenty smart on the wrist, versatile to wear with anything, and, well, it's a Rolex.

2. But if you can supplement your budget, and you want something that's all dress, then if you add about $1k of your own, you can just about stretch to a JLC master control. That's a nice size, definitely a dress watch, and definitely special enough for the occasion I think.

Otherwise, of your three I like the Nomos Weltzeit. Nice watch for the aspiring international businessman.

 

[RogerP]

I'm sticking my neck out here and going against the wisdom above: although the movement is beautiful and the design is classic, I find the Tank a teensy bit...effeminate - in gold that is. But in your budget I guess it's steel anyway, with an un-tapered strap or bracelet to give it a bit more presence, then maybe that looks a bit more manly on the wrist. There, I said it.

The Ingy is relatively chunky and utilitarian-looking if that's your thing, and I kind of like it. But it's not exactly dressy. The AT is nice, and well under budget, but perhaps not that "special" if you already have other nice watches. Might I suggest a couple more alternatives?

1. For that price, you can get a regular Rolex DateJust. If you're not insecure about your size (teehee!) I think a plain stainless 36mm DJ with a white or black dial, is plenty smart on the wrist, versatile to wear with anything, and, well, it's a Rolex.

2. But if you can supplement your budget, and you want something that's all dress, then if you add about $1k of your own, you can just about stretch to a JLC master control. That's a nice size, definitely a dress watch, and definitely special enough for the occasion I think.

Otherwise, of your three I like the Nomos Weltzeit. Nice watch for the aspiring international businessman.

Sticking your neck out.... here comes the axe.

Just kidding - I can understand how the Tank might impress as leaning toward the feminine side of things given the contemporary landscape of oversized wrist clocks, but I definitely don't share that point of view. It is the epitome of elegance in my eyes. If anything, the ginormous testoterone-infused horological excess that dominates a great many brands these days is more likely to suggest to me that the wearer is seriously overcompensating for an unseen deficiency.

AT not that 'special'? I suppose I can get that in the context of an already well-established high quality watch rotation - though I would argue that it is a superb piece for the price. Datejust more 'special' than an AT? That I don't get at all. It's practically a living definition of 'generic watch' in my estimation. I'd go with the AT 10 times out of 10 here. Similar wacthes that I would select over the AT are almost without exception a good deal more costly.



I'm with you on the JLC Master Control. Less versatile than either the DJ or AT - more firmly on the dress watch end of the scale - but a classic study in understated elegance and ageless aesthetics.

 

[Newcomer]



Gents can I get some advice please?

I have a Speedmaster Pro which I've owned for a couple of years. It doesn't get a lot of use - mainly on weekends, and only to wear around generally - no exposure to dusty, dirty or wet environments. Can you suggest when/how often it should be serviced?

Thanks.

Personally, if you can afford it, I would service it at the service intervals. For me, it is all about piece of mind, and 10 years for one watch is not the same as ten years for another!

Mimo: I have a feeling that many people share your sentiments about the tank. It is a bit on the feminine side of the spectrum (paging Fritzl). But then, I discuss men's clothing and watches, and have more shoes than my lady friend, so perhaps such a watch is fitting! Personally I view the tank as a watch that is timeless and supremely elegant. But I would like to see how it looks on the wrist first. I will look into the DJ. I honestly did not think that it was possible to find a new DJ at that price. The Master Control is a solid selection as well. That and the MUT Moon would make a great one-two punch when it comes to dress watches!

RogerP: I am with you on the Aqua Terra. It is a stunning watch with an excellent movement. Very nicely designed, and very practical.

 

[apropos]

Hmm.

Disagree about the Tank being effeminate. Have sympathy for RogerP's views re: compensation. Not sure why coloured gold = girly.

Agree re: AT, it straddles the awkward no man's land of "all in one" watch (dressy sport, sporty dressy) better than most.

Datejusts are certainly far, far, far more ubiquitous than ATs, but perhaps the vast variations in dials, bezels, bracelets help offset the commonality a bit...

Only situations where I think observing service interval matter more than others are with high beat watches, or very complicated watches.

 

[mimo]

Sticking your neck out.... here comes the axe.

Just kidding - I can understand how the Tank might impress as leaning toward the feminine side of things given the contemporary landscape of oversized wrist clocks, but I definitely don't share that point of view. It is the epitome of elegance in my eyes. If anything, the ginormous testoterone-infused horological excess that dominates a great many brands these days is more likely to suggest to me that the wearer is seriously overcompensating for an unseen deficiency.

AT not that 'special'? I suppose I can get that in the context of an already well-established high quality watch rotation - though I would argue that it is a superb piece for the price. Datejust more 'special' than an AT? That I don't get at all. It's practically a living definition of 'generic watch' in my estimation. I'd go with the AT 10 times out of 10 here. Similar wacthes that I would select over the AT are almost without exception a good deal more costly.


I'm with you on the JLC Master Control. Less versatile than either the DJ or AT - more firmly on the dress watch end of the scale - but a classic study in understated elegance and ageless aesthetics.

Mimo: I have a feeling that many people share your sentiments about the tank. It is a bit on the feminine side of the spectrum (paging Fritzl). But then, I discuss men's clothing and watches, and have more shoes than my lady friend, so perhaps such a watch is fitting! Personally I view the tank as a watch that is timeless and supremely elegant. But I would like to see how it looks on the wrist first. I will look into the DJ. I honestly did not think that it was possible to find a new DJ at that price. The Master Control is a solid selection as well. That and the MUT Moon would make a great one-two punch when it comes to dress watches!

Hmm.

Disagree about the Tank being effeminate. Have sympathy for RogerP's views re: compensation. Not sure why coloured gold = girly.

Agree re: AT, it straddles the awkward no man's land of "all in one" watch (dressy sport, sporty dressy) better than most.

Datejusts are certainly far, far, far more ubiquitous than ATs, but perhaps the vast variations in dials, bezels, bracelets help offset the commonality a bit...

Hehe...axes indeed.

I'm not saying that gold is just for girls (well, depends on your religious persuasion in some cases), or that the Tank is either. But something about the combination is just a little...borderline. The steel one on a bracelet even more so; perhaps it's something to do with the case being so similar in width to the bracelet. But the steel on a strap I would wear.

It's not, either, that I think of big watches as essential in the current fashion - my daily wearer is 35mm. It's just a combination of proportion, style and colour. In the Tank's case, one or two have to be a certain way to make it work for me. But Mrs Mimo loves it - for her.

As for the AT, it's not a matter of ubiquity or availability versus the DJ. In some ways, rather the opposite: the DJ is such a design classic, and although the hands and markers on the AT have a history too, they look out of place to me and just a bit tacky. The dial texture etc makes it worse. It's not horrible, but the DJ is just more classy - baton markers, flat bezel for me. Less is more.

 

[kungapa]



Things I have thought of: Cartier Tank Solo with an engraving maybe from JC Randall? IWC Ingenieur? Omega AT? Nomos Weltzeit? I am thinking more along the lines of a dressier day to day watch.

Late to the game, but I tried on the Weltzeit at Nomos. Too big for me, but absolutely fantastically beautiful watch.

 

[mimo]

Late to the game, but I tried on the Weltzeit at Nomos. Too big for me, but absolutely fantastically beautiful watch.

Of the original suggestions, that was far and away my top pick. Nomos seems to make a lot of watch for the money IMHO, and if their top, in-house, unique complication is still $5k, it seems like a great deal to me.

 

[in stitches]

rolex DJ all steel 36mm MSRP: 6600 - 6700 (depending on bracelet). ADs are "officially" not allowed to discount all steel models even byby a penny. i think that will be a VERY hard find under 6k, let alone around 5k.

 

[Dino944]

I especially love this display back shot - and of course your points about time-only finishings for the rectangular case.

Now, tell us: did you take this picture right after you purchased the watch? Right after you had a new strap put on? Or do you just not have sweat glands!

Hi Frills, thanks for your kind words. The movement was a huge selling point for me on this version of the Tank XL.

You are correct, the photo was taken just after I purchased it. I have not had my sweat glands removed yet, but maybe I'll do it before my next watch purchase

I'm sticking my neck out here and going against the wisdom above: although the movement is beautiful and the design is classic, I find the Tank a teensy bit...effeminate - in gold that is. But in your budget I guess it's steel anyway, with an un-tapered strap or bracelet to give it a bit more presence, then maybe that looks a bit more manly on the wrist. There, I said it.


1. For that price, you can get a regular Rolex DateJust. If you're not insecure about your size (teehee!) I think a plain stainless 36mm DJ with a white or black dial, is plenty smart on the wrist, versatile to wear with anything, and, well, it's a Rolex.

Mimo, I don't think Newcomer is going to find a new Rolex Datejust for $5,000 and AD's in NYC will not discount a new Rolex. Otherwise I would have suggested that as a possibility. Remember, he said it has to be new.

As for the Tank XL being effeminate in any way, I respectfully disagree. I will give try to be understanding of the fact that you are only looking at pix, and most likely have not tried one on. The old sizes might have seemed too small for a modern man, but is also the general consensus that of lots of smaller watches such as 36mm ROs, 36mm Nautiluses, and 34mm IWC Ingeniuers of the 1980s are too small for most men today.

IMHO, the Tank is quite simply the most iconic rectangular watch and a timeless classic that men have worn since its inception nearly 100 years ago. Even its inspiration, tank treads of tanks used in WW1, is a pretty macho. Its beauty and versatility stem from the simplicity of its design. It contains nothing more and nothing less than is necessary. To me its a watch that is perfectly balanced so that it can easily be worn with a suit or sweater and jeans (which is something that many other dress watches just don't transition to quite so well). I personally like the use of the rose gold with blued hands on a silver dial. It adds some warmth without being as brassy as yellow gold, and seems a bit more understated than yellow gold.

In addition, I just don't think case metal makes a watch more or less masculine. I don't see a Calatrava or Patrimony as being more or less effeminate in YG or RG vs. WG or PT. Nor do I feel that way about any other watch cases. However, there are and have been Tanks in white metals if that is an issue for a buyer.

While I respect your opinion...with regard to the Tank XL...I say off with your head!!!

Mimo: I have a feeling that many people share your sentiments about the tank. It is a bit on the feminine side of the spectrum (paging Fritzl). But then, I discuss men's clothing and watches, and have more shoes than my lady friend, so perhaps such a watch is fitting! Personally I view the tank as a watch that is timeless and supremely elegant. But I would like to see how it looks on the wrist first. I will look into the DJ. I honestly did not think that it was possible to find a new DJ at that price. The Master Control is a solid selection as well. That and the MUT Moon would make a great one-two punch when it comes to dress watches!

Newcomer, I suggest trying on a Tank and then making a decision. I don't think I've ever heard anyone beside Mimo accuse Tanks of being feminine. I have some collector friends that will only buy round watches. They find rectangular watches, just are not to their taste no matter what the style or maker, be it JLC, Lange, PP, AP, Piaget, VC etc. I think the Tank will give some added variety to a collection if all of your watches are currently round cases. Its really a watch you could own for decades that will look as good now as it will decades down the road.

As for a new Datejust...I don't think you can get a NEW one for $5,000. You could certainly throw some money in toward a DJ, and if you are willing to open your budget a bit, maybe you should let us know by how much as it may give you more options.

Although, on the other hand, maybe it doesn't send the right message to your parents if what they are willing to spend on your graduation gift is not enough. Just a thought.

Good luck with whatever you decide.